idosubaru
-
Posts
26925 -
Joined
-
Last visited
-
Days Won
329
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Gallery
Store
Posts posted by idosubaru
-
-
They're rather tame, I don't think there's any major concerns.
EZ engines i don't think have that happen to any greater extent than average.
I'm sure you've seen it but there's a TSB for it.
-
4 hours ago, lmdew said:
I looked at a 94 Impreza, only 145K. The Damper was completely gouged out. There was only about a 1/16" of the keyway still showing.
Move up and down on the crank shaft 1/4". Key was moving in the gouged crankshaft 1/4". I stopped there as the owner didn't want to go any further.
I have the key tig welded to the crankshaft. I know others have used JB Weld or just aligned the crankshaft gear and then torqued down the bolt as much as possible.
I should have taken a picture.
Maybe it got the “turn the radio up the car is making a noise again” fix.
The timing sprockets were also gouged and loose?
-
I’ve got a leaky windshield and would like it reinstalled on my XT6
Any tips on saving existing trim/clips?
How much problem do you guys have with trim and clips breaking during removal?
-
7 hours ago, czny said:
Is it a cast solenoid body?
Here's an EA82, ER27 (XT6) solenoid. OEM looks the same with the crimped casing:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/224219322935?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3Da63accd2079a4c188a89dfcb86847b4d%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D224219322935%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3A2782821b18c0a8d8e9dc1a51fffee416|pageci%3A6d8c20d9-9099-11ee-9a94-5a1bd6dadb96|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepageThe Ebay solenoids I've bought for tractors are similarly priced and cheaply made (shocker!). Rebuild OEM is preferred but there may not be an option except $150 for a new one which is part number 23343AA090. Interesting how some Subaru models are rebuildable or parts aren't carried and other models have all the bendix gears, tabs, levers, etc.
This shows same 90's impreza/outbacks being the same solenoid so I may scour some pull it yourself yards close to my christmas holiday travels if I can sneak away and the weather isn't nasty.
-
9 hours ago, czny said:
The solenoid contacts are the same as Toyota 20 & 22R starter solenoids. It's the bendix gear and motor that are different in rotation.
Somewhere in USMB history I made a post about this same subject. There it is!
https://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/167347-86soob-wont-start/?do=findComment&comment=1387840
But the solenoid doesn’t have any bolts or screws, this one is crimped and pressed together. It doesn’t look like it can be disassembled. -
I took the solenoid out expecting to rebuild it with new contacts like all the 90-2004 Subarus. XT6, they’re the same as any EA82.
So EA82 solenoid contacts can’t be replaced?
-
On 11/22/2023 at 5:43 AM, brus brother said:
for those searching, I found the following link and write up that may solve my issue.
will report back after I f' up along the way.
https://www.clubsub.org.nz/forum/index.php?/topic/53970-electric-seat-base-repair/
Looks awkward but simple, seats are cumbersome to maneuver in and out of the cabin but otherwise it’s not too bad. The seat rail ends/bolt down tabs want to stick out and catch paint if you’re no careful. Hopefully you’re not knocking that out with a foot of incoming snow.
yours are probably fine I don’t see this too often, but it’s annoying if it does and you have more rust up there than me so just in case:I’ve had a few that the seat bolts are rusted and have had seat bolt threads strip before. If they feel tight - work them back and forth to slowly break the rust up. If it’s really tight take a break once the bolt turns two or so times. The tighter it is the less turns per break. Go work on something else and let the metal cool down. The threads strip and bolts sheer largely due to heat build up. Heat increases plastic deformation of metals and it also causes things to expand - making the problem worse. Heat will strip a bolt well before the use actually will. let it cool. Spraying lubricant is a lubricant and helps conduct heat away from the point of friction too.
-
1
-
-
1 hour ago, saltytheseadog said:
Today we bled the MC and found some air in rear cyl. but mostly clear. Followed Haynes recommended bleeding order and all except left rear were clear of air. Left rear line had a lot of air in it but finally cleared out. We will give it another round tomorrow when our brake fluid supply is replenished but most air is gone now.
I'll try the order czny suggests, it is also the order used in How to keep your Subaru alive for OHC cars
How long and badly the system is as open makes a difference. If I swap a caliper real quick I can bleed quick. If I have the system open for a long time and lots of fluid comes out and MC replaced it can take waaay longer than expected. I wouldn’t be surprised at all if you keep bleeding and eventually get it all out.
or you could have an issue. Check for rust or wetness above gas tank where lines run and fluid loss past caliper piston seal under the boot.
-
Ive used up to almost 96 ounces (3 big bottles) to bleed an open system. It Can take forever. Like 10 or 20 pumps per corner
the piston seals can leak and are covered by the piston bolts so you can’t see if they’re leaking.
if there’s rusty lines thr rust can have thick layers of rust but no holes, and the fluid just seeps through and wets the rust rather than drips until a lot of fluid is lost. Usually above thr gas tank where you can’t see it.
-
On 11/25/2023 at 9:34 PM, 3crows said:
Back again. Since I started this blog I've swapped 3 different pairs of struts, swapped springs from side to side thinking that if it was the springs the car would crab the other way but nothing has changed. It still remains a mystery. My next experiment will be to replace the rear struts with new ones that I.have. Maybe instead of the front crabbing to the right it;s the rear crabbing to the left. I'm running out of things to try.
Have you had an alingment anytime recently, including in the back. There are alignment bolts on the rear control arms of EA82's.
Check all bushings and linkages without load. Jack the car up and pry on/around every bushing to see if any are loose.
Random guessing here but I'm still not 10)% on the springs. The rear springs are clocked to the strut mounts, so I think it *should* work like you say, but I'd be hesitant enough to confirm without a doubt particularly with such a distinctive issue. This isn't minor.
-
2 hours ago, Turbone said:
I think if I go down in wheels size, finding a tire with more sidewall will be easier to fit
smaller rims seems simplest, otherwise might be crossing fingers hoping they clear. Id guess on my cars, but be sure on my wife’s!
-
On 11/22/2023 at 8:30 PM, Turbone said:
My wifes Impreza Sport has had 2 Yokohama tires with sidewall punctures. I presume its due to the 225 sidewalls.
What I'm wondering and looking for, has anyone installed a tire on this model that has a taller sidewall? She also doenst like the ride or the extra road noise from the tires.
With the Sport suspension, I'm not positive a taller tire wouldnt rub somewhere
Where’s the least clearance? Strut, inner fender well or fender?
I’m sure you know this but I’ll vote you anyway. Sometimes you can buy some clearance by getting a tire a little skinnier if clearance issues will be the inner fender/strut
example with made up numbers: If you have to choose between two same height sizes and one is .2” wider and the other is .3” skinnier - get the skinnier one.
No newer Imprezas or comment on specific size. But low profile I’ve had numerous side wall bubbles as well driving a few miles of mountain dirt gravel mountain roads every day.What seems to happen here is mid range well priced tires don’t do well with side wall bubbles. General Altimax RT43 are a good example. Excellent tire for its price point but very prone to bubbles. I’d run them anywhere but areas seeing sidewall issues. Higher end/more expensive tires seem to resist side wall bubbles. I wonder if low cost tires have, on average, less forgiving side walls.
-
On 11/21/2023 at 8:50 AM, sirtokesalot said:
are the 4 cylinder and 6 cylinder transmission speed sensors the same? i have spare speed sensors and harnesses from transmissions ive scrapped that slipped. the transmission drives fine and shifts perfect. no slipping the car did sit parked for a while before he got it. mileage is 68,000. the transmission handshake only gave up the code 93 for the speed sensor.
I’d check the wiring to the sensor if the car sat. Do a continuity and ohm check. I’ve seen rodent damaged wires multiple times.
If the transmission was swapped it would easily have gotten the more easily found 3.9 gear ratio when it needs a 4.11. And they’ll throw a speed sensor code when that happens.
The 2003 trans harness are all the same for 4 and 6 and VDC. See here:
The 2004 is a bit of an oddball. 01-04 all VDC outbacks are identical except very minor changes. The trans are interchangeable except for the 03 or 04 changes in the rear solenoid operation. They changed whether open or close is the operational response to +12volt. Not sure if that change was in the workforce or TCU or at the solenoid.
But when I say oddball it’s very minor people have swapped 2001 and 2004 trans before and I think the jdm options work in all 01-04s as well.
-
This is showing 3, I wasn't expecting that, but here's where the gizmo's are:
https://www.subarupartsforyou.com/oem-parts/subaru-speed-sensor-and-harness-vin-required-24030aa041
If you found a bad one I'd imagine you'd just splice the bad one rather than wrestle that entire wiring harness.
-
1st question is to make sure this wasn't a recent trans swap or other major work that caused this to pop up?
The rear transmission speed sensor is external and replaceable at the rear of the trans. It just bolts on. I'm thinking there isn't another one back there it can be confused with.
Ideally you test the rear sensor using the FSM diagnostics and see if the sensor is bad or not.
-
To further follow up on this - it works fine. When reassembling the knuckle/axle - the axle is at a such steep angle, the shaft is hitting the edge of the cup and won't push into the cup any further. So you can't rotate the knuckle to fully seat in the strut. At least not with mine - I'm using Outback struts/springs and EJ knuckles so it's lifted at least 2".
Jacking the control arm to compress the strut levels the axle enough for it to slide further into the cup and then with considerable effort the knuckle will rotated fully into the strut.
It's really tight but it's what I'm currently running.
-
2 hours ago, lmdew said:
I've had good luck with the repair kits.
Thanks. Never done that before, think my XT6 rear defrost might be weak. XT6 got the low miles, rust free impreza/EJ hubs you sent me years ago.
-
GL hatch or XT6 all the way.
-
On 11/9/2023 at 6:55 PM, moosens said:
Those doors are long and heavy and have to take the stress as opposed to the vehicle structure. My first thought. But of course to review that may pull on the hinge at the structure side more so.
That registered as a non answer but I’ll stick with the door side.
Been ages since I’ve owned one of those wedges. And I don’t have the parts catalog or I’d take a look at those hinges.
This guy knows. They are long doors. Electric window hardware for more weight get.
ilk check again.
-
If I manually lift up on the door or look for play, I don't see anything out of the ordinary. No play, no noises, no obvious wear points.
But both of my XT6 doors seem to "sag" - they are harder to close and open than they should be, like they're not hitting the striker square.
There's no rust.Which is more common: a hinge issue, striker issue, or inside the door mechanism issue?
-
20 hours ago, ThosL said:
The Subaru is running fine as is. I'll have the mechanic check compression again, wouldn't that be enough to determine problem valves?
Leak down test is a far better test in this case.
-
33 minutes ago, Numbchux said:
I've had numerous sets of Blizzaks that are approaching 10 years old still looking good because I store them out of the sun.
My only hands-on experience with X-ices have been on a stage rally car, so I can't speak to treadwear
Interesting, they have a good name, still recommend them to folks in town, city, or flatter areas, and am not saying they aren't good tires, so I'm not surprised. It's almost 100% the back mountain roads I notice it on. I'll test them every year on the back snow covered roads. I have 2 miles of unmaintained commuting roads and 2 more miles of poorly maintained. i don't notice it on the main roads and around town. Myself and others noticed they weren't as good at 5 years as year 1. Studs would be ideal. Except my daily commute at it's worst is way worse than average in spite of not getting enough total average snow to warrant the noise.
-
7 hours ago, ThosL said:
To tell you the truth, I don't know what the issue is and I'm going to have the mechanic try to figure it out this week. He went over the pulleys, etc. and only replaced what was needed.
Okay so your were just guessing? Read all the codes check connectors removed during removal
Prob bent valves. Hopefully you’re lucky and it’s the tensioner. Removing and compressing it for reinstall can compromise them.
The bent valve EJs I’ve repaired myself, it can be hard to tell if the valves are bent. Best to just replace them all than get fooled and leave a bent one there. They don’t always bend in a visually obvious way.
It is interesting if it’s true you’re saying you have good compression. The valve guide could be damaged or the valve is hanging in the guide, causing good compression but not fully opening.
-
On 10/27/2023 at 8:40 PM, ThosL said:
probably timing issues as the compression is tops.
On 10/26/2023 at 7:39 PM, ThosL said:However it's clear to me that bent or malfunctioning valves are the reason for the hesitation and sputtering on the other head.
How did you change your mind so quickly?
The timing tensioner can fail. They’ll start moving around/bouncing vigorously during driving or cold start.
If you take the cover off and watch it you’ll see it. If it’s aftermarket or was compressed too quickly during reinstallation, that may have been its demise. Pull the drivers side cover and watch it at start up and when giving it throttle.
engine rebuilders recommendations?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
Posted
Subaru part # 10103AB820
New Subaru short block, 3 year Subaru warranty, $2,000
https://parts.raffertysubaru.com/p/Subaru__Legacy/Short-Block-Engine/49223018/10103AB820.html