idosubaru
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Posts posted by idosubaru
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On 9/28/2023 at 9:56 PM, lmdew said:
Well I was going to get it Friday. Had cash in hand and then the Dealer's Sales person said the owner had already committed to trading in the car on the new one.
Deal Stinks! $500 for a 2008 with 120K on it, but they told her it needed about $10K for a new engine.
I'd tell them to keep the NEW Subaru!
Too bad. Seems like a low offer for Colorado market. $10k to fix but they'll repair it for less than $2k and sell it for $9k to someone else.
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On 9/29/2023 at 3:46 PM, bratlife said:
So, just to clarify, all older (pre all wheel drive) 4wd subarus should function just fine as a 2wd (front wheel) car no problem with the rear cv axles removed right?
Or am I missing something embarrassingly obvious? 😬
No, not "all". But yeah on a manual trans Brat, just put it in 4WD and remove both rear axles and you're golden, you can drive it indefinitely like that.
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53 minutes ago, lmdew said:
I hate when you can't service normal wear parts!
Throw away life.
Agree. starter solenoid can strand you
Subaru said today 05-07 solenoids are unavailable, and there’s 4 left in the US for 08-14. So that means 05-14 Out/Leg won’t have any solenoid repair or replacement option except buying an entire starter.
The 05-07 looks like the same form and size as the 08-14 but I didn’t order one to try it.05-07 PN: 23343aa210
08-14 PN: 23343aa230
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Anyone familiar with these stamped/crimped starter solenoids? There's no way to disassemble them and replace the internal guts. Subaru doesn't carry them any more. The 09+ versions there's only 4 left in the country.
What are people doing...just buying the entire starter?
I'm half tempted to cut this one apart and see what's inside. The crimps are solid and seem really annoying to attempt to pry back and reinstall.
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23 hours ago, bratlife said:
Hello all,
So after decades of Subaru's, I've finally got my first REAR cv axle going out.
First things first, is this at least as close to as easy as swapping out the front cv axles? Any good tutorials out there? Pretty sure these have never been swapped out, so that means they've got more than 330k miles on them.
This is for a 90 Loyale, but I have an 85 brat that I need to rebuild the motor on, so I could take one of those if it would fit. Should that have the same length and number of splines etc?
I've been trying to get a hold of that place in Aurora, Colorado that rebuilds them and sells real good quality remans, maybe called fw enterprises or MWE axles? But seems like they're not around anymore. Are there any other places to get good remaned ones?
Thanks a bunch, I really appreciate any thoughts any of y'all have on any of this
It's been awhile but worst case you remove the 3 diff hanger bolts, let it hang down and knock the pins out of the axles.I think I've removed them by just knocking the pins out and sliding them off but that might have been on a lifted one or different configuration.
What do you mean "going out"?
I'd mark both axles Left/Right, clean/regrease all the joints, then swap sides. Install the left axle on the right and right axle on the left.
Alternately you can just regrease one axle or just swap them side to side.
But that is a gob tons of miles! Is that on the original engine and original trans?
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On 9/26/2023 at 2:22 PM, phyregold said:
Long story short, I had a 2.2 and got swapped with with a 2.5. I replaced the cat because it was legitimate snapped in half and I also replaced the 02 sensor, all together I am about 1200$ in the repair of exhaust and sensor and I'm pushing the car's value.
My question is, with the swap of the 2.5 could I be having other issues? Since I've replaced the cat and o2 sensor, is there only things I should take a look at? There are no other codes on the car but I do remember reading about a mass air slow sensor? I took it to a good shop and they said there doesn't appear to be an electrical issue. Any advice would be great!
No this is not due to the compatibility of the two engines. You're fine to swap 00-03 EJ's engines and ECU's all day long without issue. To reply to your private message - no I don't know any shops in your city.
Two very easy solutions:
1. Remove the REAR oxygen sensor, install a spacer, then reinstall the oxygen sensor:
Typically drill out the center and you can double stack the two of them together, but I've installed them without drilling though I'm not sure it was the same part I linked here. I've just bought them and installed them but I bought a bag of them many many years ago and they might be a slightly different part.
2. I've seen other versions in the past, have never used one, not sure if it's overkill, but here's a slick attempt:
https://www.fastwrx.com/products/oxygen-sensor-spacer-with-cat
If you want to attack a repair of the current configuration:
1. There can be ZERO leaks - Check all manifold and flange mating surfaces for any leaks.
2. Are there any other codes?
3. Assuming the swap was done correctly this is absolutely not an engine compatibility issue.
4. For clarity you should remind us what year is the A. Engine B. Intake manifold wiring C. ECU
5. The installed converter is used or new aftermarket low grade which frequently still throw P0420 codes.
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On 9/20/2023 at 2:57 PM, lmdew said:
I stopped to help someone on the road today.
The car would not start. I pulled the codes - 08 Outback PO340 Cam Sensor.
When I pulled the driver's side small timing cover there was over a foot of slack in the timing belt before it stopped.
They had the HG's done a few months ago. That much slack, I would think the passenger side cam had failed. GD - those plastic gears you've talked about?
“a foot” sounds like a lot and the pulleys and idlers outer rollers can’t really go anywhere even when theyre bearings fail, so they dont typically have maximum slack unless they go through the timing cover. A plastic cam can shatter to pieces.
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Change the oil filter. These codes pop up due to old or problematic oil filters. I’m guessing it’s never been changed?
Is the oil pan dented?
If the filter and pan are fine check the oil pressure with a gauge and see what you got.
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2 hours ago, Daskuppler said:
I had some spare aquarium air hose fittings lying around which happens to be a perfect fit. The Y had disintegrated at the connection for the driver nozzle. Works like a charm. We will see how well it holds up in the cold
Great. Strange, that one seems like the weak link. Pretty sure thats the one I’ve replaced around the drivers side nozzle too. Never seen leaks anywhere else on 2000+ Subarus.
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And yes you want to match the sensors to the computer. Which I think is a 2001 2.2 Impreza. The computer is looking for sensors - so match that.
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So it’s a 2001 Impreza with original wiring and computer and an unknown EJ25. Is that right?
Did you install the 2.5 engine with intake manifold or installed the 2.2 manifold onto the 2.5 engine?
Do you still have the 2.2 engine for parts?
Did you check if the 2.5 timing marks are aligned properly?
Okay now to an “answer”.
1. clear the codes and see which comes back first.
2. Ignore the 0733 gear ratio or whatever it is for now. Tackle that last, it may just be an artifact of the others.
3. those knock sensors fail all the time. Use a 2001 2.2 knock sensor because that’s what computer the car has (or I’m assuming it has you need to answer my question above). You can pull it and look at the bottom - sometimes they’ll have hair line cracks in them. But they can be bad and not show cracks too. Most common sensor to fail by a mile4. crank sensor. Two possibilities:
A. Timing marks are off - hence the earlier question.
B. There are two sets of crank and drivers side cam gears, one for auto and one for manual.They are interchangeable they just have different trigger mark counts on the back, otherwise they’re the same. Manual transmissions have one set and automatics have another set. So you could have installed a EJ25 from a manual trans into an automatic vehicle or an EJ25 from an auto into a manual trans. It happens even if you swap 2.2 to 2.2 or 2.5 to 2.5.
But it’s an easy fix. Just swap the 2.2 drivers side cam and the crank sprockets onto the 2.5 and you’re done. Like I said - they’re interchangeable
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8 hours ago, 1 Lucky Texan said:
can the valve stem be ground down, then bucket put back on?
Ha. Now you’re talking.
people do it for other engines without issues but I’ve never heard of it for Subarus. But I’d be open to it if I got a sense the end surface area and hardening wouldn’t be compromised.
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1 hour ago, Daskuppler said:
Hello Everyone,
2014 Forester Premium here. Over the past month or so, the driver side jet has slowly been degrading into a nearly unusable spray pattern. The passenger then started to do the same. I do not see any clogs in the system, fluid reservoir is full, and the pump is working. I did a little bit of research and noticed that the previous generation seems to suffer from connector failures under the cowling. Is this a known issue on the '14-'18 as well? I do notice a small puddle under the driver side on the ground and I can see some fluid inside of the cowling, but I don't know how much of that is fluid running off of the windshield. I'm assuming it slowly failed and the bad spray pattern is due to loss in pressure through a crack or something...I don't even know how that would happen, but it seems to be a thing.
I have not had a chance to remove the cowling yet, just seeing if anyone else has had a similar love hat experience with their Subaru.
Does anyone else feel like they are introducing themselves to an AA (or similar group) writing these posts? I have posted so much it seems like I have a problem haha
Hahahhaa. “Hi my name is Gary. I’m a USMB frequent poster”
Ive seen the plastic angle hose connectors deteriorate. They get very brittle and crack and flake into dust. Disconnect the hoses and the may just fall to pieces or the barb end will stay inside the hose, etc
I have a 2014 For parts car if you break the cowel or need any hoses connector or nozzle.
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This isn’t the one I used but here’s an example:
http://www.submariner.org/thepno95/TWE Compression Calculator ver6 - 2017.xlsx
The two blocks you’re using are so common I’m sure someone knows in turbo world.
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18 hours ago, nicksubaru said:
There might be misunderstanding. These are just buckets as the shim. The top is riding on the cam then inside the bucket is the valve steam
Okay yeah there’s a couple different bucket and shim styles. I haven’t done the buckets just shim over buckets. Although I’d be tempted to find a an easy way with bucket too.
I think They’re always too tight not too loose and the buckets/shim height need shortened to create some slack.
18 hours ago, nicksubaru said:With this 07 wrx ej255 block and 04 forester b25 heads should i look for thinner head gaskets? Or the CR won't change enough to matter and just use 04 full gasket set?
Don’t know. There was a Subaru EJ CR calculator out there years ago I used in excel format to determine various specs. Maybe try to find that so you have real numbers?
Calling GD GeneralDisorder. He would likely be the best to answer the turbo techy stuff.
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On 9/1/2023 at 11:39 AM, nicksubaru said:
How do you grind the shims even? Guess I could use glass and sandpaper... But that i bet there's a better way
Sure do that and keep checking with micrometer.
Given the way they operate, it’s not going to matter. I have glass for head resurfacing, but don’t bother for shims. I hit them with an air grinder and check with micrometer. it’s not a flywheel, head or block. Not worried about it.
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4 minutes ago, Hamm3y said:
I trying to get my 1988 Subaru xt air conditioning working, but the belt is not fitting around the power steering pulley. If any one know where I could get a new one or find a used one, I would really
appreciate it!There's a few configurations, these can be tricky to figure out. What part number is the current belt?
You can wrap something around the pullleys - like a rope or shoe string to measure and get an approximate length and then any auto parts store can get you that length, in however many ribs you need. All belts have easily determined lengths based on part numbers. Make sure you take that measurement, wrap the string around the pulleys, when the tension is adjusted very very loose so that you can tighten it.
Getting that measurement is a little tricky though - just wrapping and measuring can be a little off due to stretch, grooves, where the tension is set, etc. So try to install it in the parking lot if possible so you can quickly try another. .
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22 hours ago, nicksubaru said:
Head work, other then bucket valve adjustment, i can do myself.
Those are shim over bucket? I grind the bucket facing side down to make the shim thicker as needed. They're always too tight and need thinner shims so grinding works. I grind the side not touching the cam. But yeah, PITA and I will probably avoid it for the rest of my life if possible. lol
23 hours ago, nicksubaru said:If i spit the case, i probably won't be able to put the case halfs back together perfectly. Then it will blow up on me anyways.....so yea....
Ah - i see, you didn't have to split the case last time. Got it.
Good luck cranking it out.
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16 hours ago, nicksubaru said:
That was me who did that swap. And i was driving that car early today. Still running strong.
That was you that bearing slapped an EJ?! Haha, that's fantastic. Which year EJ was it?
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16 hours ago, nicksubaru said:
That was me who did that swap. And i was driving that car early today. Still running strong.
I would have to actually spilt the case halfs to get access to the #1 rod bearing as the water passage runs in the way. I feel that as soon as i spit the case then i have to have mechine work done. I still have to find a good mechine shop around here (Sacramento, CA ). Just haven't had time to ask around yet.
Resurface the heads yourself. Rering doesn't require a shop and don't touch Subaru bores. This can be done without a shop.
If you do get a shop have them knurl the pistons to prevent piston slap while they're out.
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i would either bearing slap it or replace the engine. I wouldn't get into any additional work at all, except re-ring it while it's apart. hope you got it before extensive damage and avoid getting sucked into a rabbit hole.
someone else bearing slapped an EJ years ago on here and said it ran fine. one whole example, and wasn't a turbo, wow! but it was interesting to see them try it and succeed.
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On 8/23/2023 at 3:45 PM, linkthehero1234 said:
I am planning to also do an engine swap. I'm guessing swapping the tailhousing from the XT6's 4EAT to the Legacy's 5MT wouldn't work?
The auto and manual transmissions are entirely different, definitely not swapping any parts between those.
Much simple to swap an entire legacy engine/transmission together.
Rear differential needs to match the legacy transmission final drive ratio.
If the XT6 was an automatic then the rear diff is a 3.7 final drive ratio. If it was a manual it's 3.9.
Legacy I'm unsure - it changes over the years/models/engines. But based on what you're saying the legacy you're referencing will be a 3.9. In which case you'd need a manual trans rear XT6 diff or swap in a legacy diff.
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Don't know.
The O2 isn't used by any other system in those older vehiclse (like the AT, there's no dynamic control, cluster, etc) and the rear O2 isn't used for fuel trims until 2005 so that should be really simple. It just gets scrubbed to see if the CEL needs triggered. so that should be a simple input, no cross wiring necessary. Of course you'd want it properly powered/grounded/relay/fuse protected and powered at the proper time however Subaru does it. But it shouldn't need to be shared with any other wiring.
I'd expect the front to be the same in a 2001 as well - it's a fairly simple O2 and ECU so you should be able to just give it power/ground and pin the input signal to whichever ECU pin needs that signal.
But I'm just guessing and dislike messing with ECU's/wiring diagrams despite repinning a 2012 Outback connector right now and being a Flight Software Engineer lmao.
Keep in mind - just in case the wiring turns out to be more complex then initially assumed - I'd still install an EJ25 ECU and oxygen sensor and avoid the wiring. ECU's are available for $25.
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12 hours ago, Daskuppler said:
I ended up going to the dealership to get some of their gear oil since it is usually pretty affordable and I could not locate Valvoline's conventional oil unless it was 80w-90 which won't work in Colorado winters. The first dealership didn't have any, that was a surprise. I ended up paying almost $17/qt for Subaru's conventional oil...that stuff got expensive for not being synthetic!
Was that the Extra S fluid? I think that’s supposed to be very good fluid but a little pricey.
P0420 - Replaced Cat and 02 sesnor, this thing won't go away.
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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I don't know because I bought a bag years ago that are one length so I don't stack them, but they're longer than the typical packs of two. I would install one, then install 2 if that doesn't work.
But it should work *IF the rest of the exhaust doesn't have leaks.
What does "I cannot get the 02 ready to be ready" mean? Is the check engine light still on? Is the P0420 still on?
Or are you talking about the monitors that need populated after a reset?
It's not a 1996 vehicle or ECU right? I thought you were talking about 01-02 vehicle/engines.
You've been here long enough you should be psychic by now, the Matrix must have a glitch.
He started another topic recently and private messaged me, so I've been following a long a tiny bit.