idosubaru
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Posts posted by idosubaru
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On 3/3/2023 at 7:32 PM, moosens said:
the car was totaled out by the offenders insurance but somehow I’ve eluded the State inspections etc etc.
Maybe they’ll catch up to me but I was told back when I got the fat check that it may need inspection to keep on the road.
Do you think it slid through the covid cracks? Our inspections were all screwed up due to COVID. Offices closed, no inspections of reconstructed vehicles for a year. They allowed local title companies to provide more services than normal and delayed/weren't enforcing any state inspections at all. My inspection is 3 years expired and they aren't pulling me over with my ancient peeling off sticker. I have inspection scheduled Thursday this week.
Also I've seen a number of times where the insurance/payout/titling/totaling process doesn't happen like normal.
"Totaling" a car means the insurance company buys the car from you. They pay you and take the car and title. The title then gets branded however your particular state brands wrecked cars. If you do a buyback they give you the title back branded and you keep or get the car back. Often times they don't acquire your car/title and just hand you a check, so no documentation happens besides just paying you. I find they'll act VERY QUICKLY (and thus skip those steps) if concise and I make it known I'd prefer to avoid lawyers if the situation is addressed reasonably. I've avoided them every time for myself and friends I've helped through wrecks with good results. Or take the car, but not the title, then you do a buyback and they never follow through with title. Whatever the case - the totaling/wrecked/title/branding/registering of wrecked cars through insurance often doesn't go the same way every time.
I've found the insurance process is surprisingly not as regimented as other parts of the legal/DMV process.
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Can you post all the codes you’re getting? You’re positive it’s all cylinder misfire codes?
I think that’s the idel controller. The three wire part? Look it up and see if it looks the same as what you’re looking at
I’ve removed them on older fuel injected non turbo subarus down to temps well below zero without issue. If the idle controller is expecting coolant maybe it’s freaking out? Don’t know.
Higher octane alone shouldn’t matter.
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On 9/9/2022 at 6:09 PM, carfreak85 said:
Sprayed down the intake piping while the engine was running to no effect.
Did notice the oil pressure sender was wet and was emitting bubbles after I shut it off and was inspecting the intake manifold...
Will do some laps this weekend with the SSM2 hooked up.
Can you map fuel trims while it drives normal and through one of it's episodes and compare?
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3 hours ago, el_freddo said:
TGV - as @1 Lucky Texan said - Tumble generator valve.
No non turbo US EJ25's had that unless they slapped it on some late EJ25 nonturbo's that snuck past me. I'd guess that's a turbo only part in the US. 99 EJ25 isn't turbo, there are no turbo EJ25's in the 90's in the US.
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10 hours ago, el_freddo said:
Any TGV setup on this early 253?
It could be worth deleting these and see what happens.
What is TSV? I’ve never heard that term. Googling Subaru TSV didn’t help.
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On 2/28/2023 at 7:27 PM, lmdew said:
I've bought from them before too. Nice too they know Subarus when other places fumble and waffle around with what fits what or have interchange issues.
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Do you have any non-ethanol gas close by? Non-ethanol is the gold standard. Landscaping equipment managers and boat owners go that route and have no love for additives.
More anecdotally, I've used Stabil and my outdoor equipment never worked any better over doing nothing. I may be mis remembering but I thought GD mentioned years ago treatments aren't nearly as good as their reputation. I remember someone talking about it because it was when it wasn't doing my property equipment any good.
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Radiator isn’t blocked?
How many miles has it driven since the work?
Did the symptoms start immediately or after a month?
How often does it do this - once a day or week?
Look for a pattern when it overheats. Coming off a long sustained drive (like exiting an interstate or driving back roads and stopping more in city)? Going up hills or coasting or night and day or ambient temps.
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4 hours ago, 86 xt said:
can only find the test connectors in the trunk
Those connectors are used for memory and clearing functions. The test connectors should be disconnected for normal driving.
Connecting one connector will flash the codes in memory. Connecting the other connector will erase the ECU memory.
Or maybe connecting both connectors does one of thsoe functions. It's been awhile since i've done it.You should also be able to just disconnect the ECU entirely either the plugs to it or pull the fuse if it has one or disconnect the battery overnight.
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I routinely - like 100 times - have removed the alignment bolt without getting an alignment.
Mark the top strut mount bolt *head* and the strut body with a chisel. Take a picture of the marks on the bolt head and strut body for good measure before removing. Reinstall with marks in same position. Very easy.
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6 hours ago, myhilo said:
The comments are all great, however can't someone give advice on...
Advice on buying parts that is what sources (company) are currently in business.
Depends on parts.
Subaru only: head gaskets, exhaust manifold gaskets, spark plug wires (or get NGK elsewhere), axles (used are fine), water pump gasket, wheel bearings, timing components, radiator cap and thermostat.
Rockauto for brakes, and brake hardware, air filter, oil filters, and many other things you can tolerate shipping for
Your favorite local retailer like advance, autozone Oreilly etc.
NGK plug wires only
KYB struts only
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On 2/9/2023 at 10:07 AM, jonathan909 said:
So I have confidence in both the gaskets and my work.
My lack of confidence has to do with EJ25 HGs generally, not your work. Haha.
As GD said The radiator caps can have compromised gaskets. Also the radiator necks can having pitting or chips that prevent proper sealing of the cap gasket. Id just expect (maybe incorrectly) some other symptoms like coolant loss at the cap or improper levels/flow/bubbling in the overflow if that were the case. But I haven’t seen too many symptomatic radiator caps.
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New subaru timing belt and pulleys. Those old school tensioners rarely fail and can be kept.
While the timing belt is off, replace the cam seals, cam orings, crank seal, reseal the oil pump (one oring and RTV) and tighten the backing plate screws.
Inspect or replace the knock sensor while the engine is out for the clutch job. Remove the 12mm bolt and look at the base - the rubber starts to crack where it sits on the engine block. In the past if I plan on the engine being around awhile I'd just replace it because over time they are the single most common sensor failure on that vehicle by a loooooong shot.
New valve cover gaskets, plugs, wires, air filterIf you want new headgaskets use Subaru head gaskets, resurface the heads, clean and lube the bolts/threads, and properly clean the deck (no wire wheel or sanding). They rarely need valve jobs, the valve stem seals and guides aren't prone to issues on those.
The 97 legacy alternators I think work in a 1995 and are only $70 from Subaru: part number 23700AA211. They're still not as good as new OEM but still a great price and beats the local auto parts garbage.
If you're in a rust prone area inspect or replace the brake pad clips. If they're original and not rusty and it will see salt then consider keeping them since new aftermarket clips rust much faster than the original OEM's. Or just get OEM pads if they're still available that come with the cilps. Subaru pads are excellent and last way longer than average aftermarket cheaper pads. Frequently cars that sit in salted areas will accrue rust around the pad backing plate and clips that creates easy hang up spots. New pads will hang on those rust ridges and compromised pad clips and wear out in well under a year.
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1 hour ago, nelstomlinson said:
we'll pull the engine and try reinstalling the belt, I guess.
Ah, got it.
No need to pull the engine, timing marks can be inspected in half an hour.
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2 hours ago, jonathan909 said:
Like most of us, I've had my share of bad HGs, so I rather doubt that's the case, but I'll double-check.
I've seen those exact symptoms but of course rule out simpler things.
Check coolant levels, I've seen cool running due to inconsistent coolant levels...though only in EJ25's with known headgasket issues though no overheating (external leaks).
Can the fans run at the wrong times (flaky fan sensor?) causing over cooling sometimes and overheating others? Never seen it so it's just a wild guess.
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On 2/6/2023 at 9:37 PM, nelstomlinson said:
That surely looks like what we did. Only thing it doesn't show is the marks on the belt.
Belt marks aren't needed as long as cams and timing cover marks are perfect.
1. Why did you have to use a new crank sprocket? Is there some damage or issue that might help us in this saga?
A. Unplug the cam and crank sensor connectors, see if pins are compromised and ensure they're fully seated when plugging back in.
B. Verify the correct timing marks were used and they're alignment is correct.
C. Check the cam and crank sensors for damage to the sensor, connector, or wiring.If still striking out - verify the crank sprocket you swapped is the right one (there are two for that year).
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Headgasket.
check other things for proper function.
Look for bubbles in the overflow while it’s running or after turning the engine off.
If you had the engine apart it seems like bad water pump vanes would have stood out.
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11 hours ago, Daskuppler said:
Is it worth having the CVTs flushed periodically? Or is an annual drain and fill enough? 120k on my car and I've done a drain and fill annually for the last 4 years. Is a flush every 4 years better?
Be nice to know what actual CVT failures happen and what causes, or prevents, them.
Granted this isn't the same, but I think it would take strong evidence to convince people that short duration 1 quarter engine oil changes are better than a traditional full change. So I'd guess a full change is *better*, but whether it matters or is worth the time is another thing. I don't think anyone knows the causative mechanisms behind CVT failure and what role fluid, if any, plays in it. Does CVT fluid degrade, get overheated, or get particulate matter in it?
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7 hours ago, Daskuppler said:
What grease do you use?
I’m not well versed in grease so I don’t have a technical reason. But I use Valvoline synthetic and any name brand synthetic in the past. With seeing the old dried up nearly nonexistent grease chunk out in pieces, or old watery grease pour out of old joints when disassembled, it seems like having actual useable grease is more important than brand.
totally makes sense just swapping in new axles. It’s ideal. Regrease is an option for unavailable options, keeping a back up, or for those already doing more than average axle work with lifts or off-roading.
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Michelin cross climate II
I guess your local snow maintenance is decent if you’re not asking about snow tires
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On 2009 and earlier axles:
Clicking while accelerating has been inner joint 100% of the time IME.
Ive regreased a number of OEM and MWE (no longer an option) axles with 100% success rate. They were always dry or the grease pours out like water.
A guy I know pulls both axles and swaps the joints left to right since load and wear shift “to the other side”. Though I wonder how much of that “success” is the clean and regrease required to swap guts
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1 hour ago, Steptoe's photos said:
is there even a sock on the external pump to inspect ?
Yes, if it’s an oem or oem style pump there’s a sock inside the intake line side of the pump.
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On 1/29/2023 at 9:04 AM, 86 xt said:
tested with another fuel pump but gave the same result.
Did you test output in anyway - if installing another pump- run it before connecting the output hose so you can see it coming out and tell if it's muddy from internal tank rust.
Was the sock on the old pump clogged at all?
If a used fuel pump was installed then there's no telling it's any good. I swapped 3 used fuel pumps in a 1987 XT years ago and all three pumps weren't usable.
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CARB converters are aftermarket converters intended to be equivalent to OEM and won’t give any performance gains for your engine.
aftermarket converters are cheaper and not as emissions efficient as original converters installed at the factory (OEM). They use less of the expensive catalysts to make them cheap - and that’s why they can cause check engine and emission compliance issues.
So CA requires CARB compliance which simply means aftermarket converters have to meet higher requirements, or are much closer to OEM specs. They’re more expensive because they have more expensive catalyst and ECON 101 supply and demand. There’s less demand for them.
Ignoring all the converter stuff there’s practically zero gains to be had for performance efficiency in the exhaust of a *non turbo* engine. That 08 Forester will have unimpressive 0-60 times no matter what is done to it except forced induction. Entirely removing the converter will have zero practical performance gains. You can have a shop (or do it yourself, Ive done it) make a short section of straight pipe to bolt up to the exhaust. for that matter just unbolt it and run open LOUD exhaust one day to get “free flowing” exhaust and you’ll notice it doesn’t run any different. Happens in the rust belt where exhausts rust off. Those options will result in a tiny performance difference from hoping and pressing the gas pedal more aggressively.
None of that is true for turbo engines. Completely different beasts. This can make it deceptive for those scouring online forums or listening to locals talk at work or Friday night at the bar. Just because Atticus installed a high flow exhaust and gained a bunch of power in his turbo doesn’t mean a non-turbo car owner can do the same.
EJ202 TB coolant hose delete - will these create any issues ?
in 1990 to Present Legacy, Impreza, Outback, Forester, Baja, WRX&WrxSTI, SVX
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Try to read those codes. That's the best starting point. Oh you're probably OBDI? Quick google suggests AUS didn't have any Subaru OBDII in the 90's so yours probably is OBDI. Have you see that process for getting the car to flash the codes for you? Maybe you don't need a scanner?
I think you just plug in the connectors and the check engine light flashes the code to you, not sure where you'll find these in a RHD 98 For but the connectors may look like this:
It got down to about -10 Celsius where I used to live and did TB coolant bypass without issues.