idosubaru
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Posts posted by idosubaru
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Bad headgasket. JDM or replace the gaskets.Use an OEM radiator cap only
If you’re lucky bleed all the air. Burp it good. Nose up while filling.
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9 hours ago, Stevo F said:
I have a low mileage (68K mile) 2000 Outback Limited that I recently acquired from my Dad. I recently replaced the alternator, and the following week, I noticed occasional vibration when turning the steering wheel at low speeds. The first thing I suspected was drive belt tension since I had just removed and reinstalled the belt when I replaced the alternator. Tightening the belt seemed to make it worse, and backing off the belt tension seemed to alleviate the vibration, but I still feel it occasionally. It also doesn't matter if the vehicle is moving or not and it while shake pretty well when moving the steering when parked in the garage. It will shake often but not all the time.
I'm suspecting something with the power steering pump- could it need a good power steering fluid flush (power steering fluid level is good), or is the pump itself at fault?
Loosen and readjust the belt shroud to get pressure off the power steering hose.
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Be careful with years and models.
For the 99-01 Impreza 2.2 FSM (a 99 legacy 2.2 should be same), You don’t want a 2.5 or turbo. Which aren’t common in those years but turbos get a lot of online attention.
For 00-04 FSM you don’t want turbo wiring.
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4 hours ago, fuelforwar said:
That would be great and I'm hoping i get that lucky.
Don’t know how they all are but I’ve downloaded a few from these links in the past.
Should be able to just put the ECU wiring side by side and compare to start.
https://sl-i.net/FORUM/showthread.php?18087-Subaru-Factory-Service-Manuals-(FSM)-Every-Model-USDM-EU
2002 ECU pin outs:
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22 minutes ago, fuelforwar said:
Sounds good, I'll just keep digging through fsm's instead of trying to look up individual diagrams just on that circuit. So far I've only been able to find 4 pin diagrams that are a different color then my harness. I wish I dug into this more before I scraped the car. I'd have just chased up the old wiring and replaced it into the new car in the same layout. I even had the whole dash out of the new one to replace the heater core, so that would have been a prime time. That's just the way stuff rolls sometimes tho. Thank you for the info!
Get an FSM from each of those and compare. I guess start with the ECU and see what’s different. Maybe it’s just the O2 wiring and not the engine. What you see there will tell you if you need to go to the engine harness or oxygen sensor or not.Might get away with just pinning the Oxygen sensor to how the ECU wants it and be done.
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Just now, fuelforwar said:
I appreciate the info. I've been driving the car for the last couple months and everything else seems to be working fine except the 02 sensors, but I'll cross reference where I can to confirm. My gas mileage has been been between 18-20mpg so I'm sure it's due to the fuel trims being off because of the 02 sensors. Where's a good place to find a digital fsm? Basic Google searches on year make and models gave me a mixed bag of results and diagrams.
There's isn't a great central source since it varies so much by model/year, I just try to find them linked that doesn't look too suspicious. I've probably downloaded 20-30 off the internet and never had an issue.
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8 hours ago, fuelforwar said:
Would it be more efficient to do this or rewire the 02 circuit. I just did a full rebuild on my ej222 before the wreck. I'd like to keep as many new and restored parts as possible before putting used ones on.
It's worth looking at the harness diagrams if you don't mind repinning, it just sounds like it could be a rabbit hold if the main engine harness, ECU connector, and oxygen sensor connectors all need repinned. It's worth a look to see, it might just need to be the main engine harness only, or not many pins. Many people don't and sometimes a known solution is better than digging through harnesses towards an unknown end.
You'll need an FSM which can be gotten online (or pinouts for the necessary connectors - main engine harnesss, ECU, O2 connector) for a Phase II EJ22 and Phase II EJ25. I used to have those digital FSM's but can't find them. Here's the engines that are all the same if you're looking for pinouts/diagrams online:
Phase II EJ22: 1999-2001 Impreza or 1999 Legacy EJ22
Phase II EJ25: Should be any 2000-2004 Legacy, Forester, Outback, Baja, Impreza, all of those engines are plug and play compatible.
Or do some combination of visual comparison between both physical connectors and narrowing it down.
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9 hours ago, fuelforwar said:
The differences in the looms seems to be my current issue. Both engines are phase 2 non turbo with manual transmissions.
My main issue with this was I never had a donor ej251. The 2002 impreza was just a roller. I transplanted the complete ej222 out of the 2001 impreza. At this point you’re saying it would be easier to go out and buy a complete intake manifold with the works, cam gear, and ej251 eco, then it would be to rewire the 02 sensors? That seems like it would be more time and cost consuming then chasing and repinning some wires.
Nah. I never said change the engine. Where did you read me say to remove the EJ22 engine? I didn’t.
Bolt the EJ25 intake manifold onto the EJ22. Leave the EJ22 the original EJ25 ECU will run it just fine
“Reinstall the original EJ25 ECU and EJ25 intake manifold and EJ25 oxygen sensor.”
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12 hours ago, fuelforwar said:
I'll try to clarify this, the car everything is installed in now is an 02 impreza wagon T.S that originally had an ej251. The donor car was 2001 impreza wagon L with an ej222. I swapped over the ej222 and the computer for the one that was with the ej222. The main harness from the engine bay to the computer and 02 sensors are still from the 02 impreza. I replaced both front and rear 02 sensors with new ultrapower brand ones from rock auto.
Reinstall the original EJ25 ECU and EJ25 intake manifold and EJ25 oxygen sensor. You did too much work for no reason.
If the engines aren't both from an automatic or both from a manual transmission then swap the EJ25 drivers side cam and crank sprocket onto the EJ22.
Follow those steps above and you're done. Have a question....reread the directions above.
12 hours ago, fuelforwar said:My biggest concern is, it looks like the 02 is a wide band 02, and the transplant engine was using a narrow band sensor. Everything I look up tho shows the 02 impreza should be a narrow band. However my scan tool shows it getting 3.7v and a lamda reading of 9.999. If it was narrow band it should be showing voltage of .1 to 1.0v
More wires just has higher fidelity and I think 0-5V is the normal range. Not a big deal. You just need to follow my directions above and the oxygen sensor is a non issue.
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You want all the sensors to match the original wiring/ECU. Just change the engine and nothing else. Leave the original oxygen sensors, etc. There's no need to count pins, just leave the old sensors in or replace them with the same part.
Is that what you did?
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6 hours ago, Gevorg said:
Thanks for the information! Yes, I am aware than in almost all ways Baja is a castrated 00-04 Outback. But just as you said, part numbers do not suggest in any way that ECUs are among those similarities.
I think I should be able to get my hands on a 00-04 Outback ECU way more easily so I will try that route and see if it works.Thanks again.
Even since the introduction of FI engines with ECU's subaru has changed parts numbers rapidly even in what look and function as identical ECU's. I've swapped tons from the 1980's, 1990's, and 2000's that have different part numbers.
I'm just now seeing "Georgia" means the country, not the US State of Georgia. I'm unsure if that means your market/vehicles are different than US offerings. What's I've told you is true of US markets.
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Shirt answer: get a 00-04 Outback ECU
Subaru changes ECU part numbers ALL the time, they’re almost pointless for determining compatability.
All 2000-2004 Outback/legacy 4 cylinder non turbo, and all non turbo bajas, ECUs swap and plug and play.
Yours is an outlier Subaru went CANBUS in 2005 with OB legacy which are notoriously NOT interchangebe plug and play ECU The components are married and need done at a Subaru dealer. You can’t even swap a 2005 legacy GT ECU with another identical 2005 legacy GT unless you take it to Subaru and ask them to wave their magic sorcery electronic sauce at it.
But since the Baja was just a 00-04 Outback castrated in the rear, the later 05-06 models are just 00-04 outback’s. they didn’t redesign the Baja to later Gen aesthetics or components.
this will confuse online listings and information which doesn’t have the fidelity or experience to parse all that
At least that’s my understanding. 05+ are off years as Subaru rolled out CANBUS technology piecemeal across models. But it’s fairly safe to say your 05 baja is just a 00-04 OBW and you can use any 00-04 Outback or legacy non turbo 4 cylinder ECU
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On 7/31/2023 at 4:01 PM, nvu said:
Definitely disconnect the battery. Also I've had a wrench fall between the positive terminal and an ac line. After the sparks stopped there was a nice hole in the tube. Now I prefer pulling the negative side and leaving the positive terminal covered.
I routinely avoid the disconnect battery step. I’ve worked on totaled wrecked Subarus airbags without pulling the battery. I’ve removed and replaced airbags in running Subarus to leave the AC on while I’m disassembling the ceiling and interior for the side impact curtain air bags. That takes forever and the back gets hot in the summer. I’ve plugged and unplugged airbags countless times in vehicles that are on. Bad idea I know but there it is
I’ve also tied string to a wrench and pulled it right to a brand new fully charged battery posts and nothing but a small spark or three happened. Boring and disappointing. The type of wrench and it’s alloy/hardening or coating matters. The hard part was deciding when it was safe to go push the wrench off. Lol.
Of course I’m not recommending any of this, and as an engineer with excessive Subaru experience I am discerning and will disconnect sometimes…and of course one day it will end badly.
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20 hours ago, jonathan909 said:
That's a lot of fuss for something that costs a hundred bucks to replace
His implied point is to flush the entire cooling system.
I use Georgia Tech gecko adhesion technology on my tires for those 90 degree grades. Now, off to keep skis and tubes from falling out of the boat….
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16 hours ago, jonathan909 said:
Just got back from another little boat-hauling road trip, this time over the Rockies and into the British Columbia interior, where it's pretty damn hot. Two years ago the town of Lytton burned down after the temperature exceeded the highest ever recorded in Las Vegas.
My problem is that in 30+ heat I was barely able to hold the temp gauge's 9-o'clock norm. Any extra load - climbing a hill or turning on the AC - would cause the temp to climb, forcing me to slow down, turn off the AC, even turn on the heater in an effort to keep it from going past the 10-o'clock mark. That I can tweak it on the fly like this suggests that it's a marginal problem, and in the past (e.g. with my old 318 Dakota) the answer was a new rad.
1. Is there any reason not to take the same approach this time?
2. Of the rads available from Rock (in ascending order of price):
CSF, Ultra-Power, TYC, FVP, UAC, Koyorad, Agility, GPD, Denso
are there any particularly good or particularly bad?
Doubt there’s enough scale to differentiate beyond anecdotes. Ive used a few CSF radiators, maybe 5-10. haven’t kept track of brands but end up with CSF most often by far, including at least one H6. they’ve fit right and worked fine. Second most would be Koyo I think. Also worked fine.I think GD said Aftermarkets are reasonable (he doesn’t say that often), but he’s seen the radiator cap not seal properly due to the internal neck sealing depth/surface.
One could check cap sealing while it’s still under warranty.
I’ve had the same issue towing other Subarus or large boats with an H6. Same thing. Fine until its steep grade, 90+ degrees.
ensuring condenser fins are clean and straight will improve airflow to the rad. there are fin straightening tools if needed.
A dedicated AT cooler would incidentally expand cooling capacity. That’s what I thought of doing but never did. -
And I do remember your thread and comments sourcing and fixing that solenoid.
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It seems valve body issues usually result in poor shifting but no noises. Whines and noises would be more indicative of CVT failure rather than valve body….that’s what comments seem to suggest but there’s a lot of i complete threads and comments so trying to get it right.
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CVT and valve body failures aren’t rare - so how do you tell the difference? What’s the symptom differences?
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3 hours ago, bork said:
Thank you all so much for answers. Does look doable but I'm a little worried my big fat arm, wrist ,fingers wont contort enough to get that lower fastener, with the hoses in the way. I noticed some search replies were referring to a relay mod , but links are so old they dont work. I didn't see anything in the stickies. Anyone have any good link?
You can use extensions to get a socket back there and wrench it extended out to about the brake master cylinder. Then play blindfolded whack a mole until the socket seats on the nut. Just make sure you got the right nut size -
shoukd be 14mm. Then you’re not sticking your hands down there really anyway. If you can’t get it back on the remaining fastener is more than adequate. Lol
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6 hours ago, bork said:
My kids 1996 impreza wagon might need the starter replaced. I'm going to check connections and relay in morning. I have an old spare starter somewhere, but how hard is it to change out? Special tool combo set up or any other things need to be moved or relocated? I was hoping to replace in parking lot instead of having towed. I did the beating on starter and the starter would grind over slowly. The battery already been swapped out and voltage checked ok and cables look good.
Easy - two fasteners, the one is a bit blind but not that big of a deal.
Sounds like you have but make sure the power supply and cables are good.
Also you can replace the $20 contacts inside and be good to go. The starter brushes and motor are almost always fine.
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What he said. Replace slave cylinder and hose and prepare to bleed and bleed and bleed. Very common.
Or convert that unreliable maintenance required hydro clutch garbage to a maintenance free cable clutch and never think about it again. Granted I’ve never had a repeat hydro failure after I’ve replaced the slave and hose, but the fluid flushing and failure rates of the hydro components are trash on principle for no net gain. been so long I’m forgetting if the fork and ball are the same between the two or the cable swaps right in
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On 6/26/2023 at 1:26 PM, Kaipickett said:
Hello, I’m sorry this is 3 year later but I’m replacing the rear diff on a 2005 Baja NA, A/T with one from a forester. The diff itself fits perfectly but the rear axles won’t spline. Do you happen to know which axles fit the 1998-2008 forester rear diff and works for a Baja? Thanks in advance I’m just at a loss for information here.
2000-2004 legacy, Outback rear axle.
make sure it’s a Subaru OEM axle. they’ll have a green cup like I’m this example picture:-
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15 hours ago, el_freddo said:
he next time you do pull the EA82, make sure you put something else back in it’s place
hahahahhah. True true! That's Stout advice. I haven't pulled one in over 15 years and can not imagine a reason I ever will again.
For the crank bolt - impact guns are money. A 3 foot pipe extension and smash the end with a heavy metal mallet will suffice as a make shift impact to remove the crank pulley as well. But having a bolt/anchor on the bellhousing for the flexplate or flywheel is much simpler and will be needed/useful when reinstalling too.
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2 hours ago, jeffroid said:
Thanks for the suggestions. All the suggested parts/gaskets/seals/hoses (and then some) are getting replaced with OEM with the engine swap.
Sounds like a solid job.
1987 Subaru GL 4x4 steering rack suggestions
in Old Gen.: 80's GL/DL/XT/Loyales...
Posted · Edited by idosubaru
Don’t think so. I mocked one up. The tie rod lengths are whack and mess with steering and the input shaft angle is wrong. I think GLoyale (I forget his exact new user name Fer…something) talked about this tie rod issue and using EA81 tie rods on EJ racks…I think. Also, my bigger issue was it will not pass through the cross member without cutting into the cross member or some other significant adaption to avoid the different offset angles of the input. One could get a picture of them side by side probably to see that difference.