idosubaru

Check your front differential oil. That's unlikely because you'd probably also have some noises but given the cost I'd check just to be sure. Are the inner axle joints green, like this? http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v238/mschmidt/DSC05728.jpg That picture is from underneath. They can be seen from peeking around the wheel, but with good lighting you should be able to peer through the engine bay too. Post a picture here if you're unsure. If they're not green - then it's likely aftermarket axles causing the issues. Aftermarket axles have all sorts of issues - i've even seen brand new ones blow apart in 50 feet after replacement...little balls rolling all over the ground and everything. Noises, vibrations, you name it. of course there's plenty of good ones but they have a rather high failure rate. Maybe they were run with broken boots for a long time but that seems unlikely if we just make guess from what information you've given us. If it is axles, but used axles and have them rebooted with Subaru boots (aftermarket boots only last 2-4 years): www.car-part.com for cheap used axles everywhere. FWE in Denver sells excellent quality axles if you want an off the shelf option.

i meant pay someone else to do it. $400 EJ22 and $400 to install it - and $300 for the car and you can end up right around the same price of the one you're looking at but have some more control over it and end up with a far better, less risky engine. although you're probably limited in engine selection down south. www.car-part.com 1995 legacy or impreza EJ22 from an automatic is ideal any EJ22 1996 - 1998 is also a possible candidate

yeah that's basically what 2000 Impreza's came with - so that makes sense, it's the easy fit. Here are the engines that are plug and play: 1999-2001 EJ22's (they're rare, sometimes expensive/hard to find - probably why someone installed an EJ25 - there's far more of those). 1999 Forester or Impreza EJ25 2000-2004 EJ25 two points of note: 1. swap the crank sprocket and drivers side cam pulley to make sure. there's two different trigger patterns and you want to keep the same ones to the vehicle. techincally you can check them and count the triggers on the back side or assume auto and manual are the same as a guide - but it's an easy work around either way. 2. you'll want to verify what exhaust you currently have. EJ25 exhaust manifold is dual port. EJ22 exhaust manifold is single port. if it's a complete EJ25 engine - then you'll need to swap exhaust manifolds to use an EJ22. if it's an EJ25 short block with EJ22 heads - then you'll have a single port exhaust and need to use an EJ22 or get dual port exhaust to match the EJ25. you'll need to look and check - the EJ25 and EJ22 heads are interchangeable, same intake mainfold, so someone could have bolted the EJ22 heads to an EJ25 block. and even 2005+ engines should work too - plug and play but the variable valve stuff will just sit there doing nothing and they're more expensive so usually not a compelling fit.

you need to qualify that question and why you're asking. do you mean as opposed to FWD Subaru's or are you trying to differentiate 4WD and AWD (goodness hopefully not that dead horse http://www.subaru.com.au/car-advice/awd-vs-4wd)? on (2003 and earlier) Subaru's the FWD fuse you're thinking of only works when the car is on. so unless you do some work arounds simply installing the fuse doesn't do anything.

if you're sure that it's engine knock then maintenance items won't help, replacing the oil pump or otherwise. your options are rebuild, replace, or limp it along and see what happens.

as he suggested - don't sign up for insurance without asking/discussing it. you'll want a company that will work with you on replacement value....and apparently usage as he suggested.

oh yeah - crazy indeed - that's why i said "humorous" options!! lol i was just having fun.

okay - both of those terms, without context, are ambigous and meaningless simply because these engines have their own curiosities in this department. since we don't know anything and can't see/hear the car let's start simply: Egine knock Is it actually knocking or is it TOD and how did you determine that? engine knock - if it's actually engine knocking (like rod knock) - nothing is going to fix that and eventually it's going to fail - sometimes in fun catastrophic ways like rods blowing through the engine case. if it's TOD - that's a completely different story. most of ohio is very unfamiliar with Subaru's, particularly old ones, so if you've been told it's "knocking" - you might want to verify that with well versed Subaru people. It's called "TOD" which stands for "Tick of Death" because it sounds like rod knock, sounds ominous -but actually it's benign and the car will run 100,000 miles most liklely without issues. which is it? Low Oil pressure: how do you know it's low oil pressure? usually "low oil pressure" on the gauge is benign and indicates no troubles. if it's by the factory gauge - EA82's and ER27's routinely show "zero" or near zero oil pressure on the gauge. some Subaru Owners manuals even mention that it's normal. the pressure sender may be inaccurate. otherwise - post what tests were done, how they were done, and what readings you got.

another option is to buy a blown EJ25 and swap in an EJ22. another great option. get something like this for $300: http://neworleans.craigslist.org/pts/5482143889.html and spend $1,000 on an EJ22 with new timing belts and you're off to about the most reliable $1,300 25 year old car you can get. www.car-part.com for engines. and the larger you can expand your buying market - the better chance at a good deal you'll have. it's worth the effort sometimes to go a couple hundred miles for the right deal. but it's best to have some people/car skills to assess the success rate before going that far.

that's a nice price tag but otherwise looks risky. have $$$ cash on hand, look for any 1998 and earlier EJ22 (impreza, legacy, 96 MT outback), and IMMEDIATELY make offers to come get the car the minute you see the listing. offer less if it's not a smoking deal. when they say "someone is coming to look at it later" i respond with "I have cash in my hand, DMV paper work printed, and can tow/drive it away right now". thing is - the EJ22's usually come in lesser valued cars so they're cheaper AND more reliable. i'd avoid 90's EJ25's unless i have a very compelling reason not too - which rarely happens on really cheap ones (unless they need a motor or something) if you wait (to schedule, test drive, ask questions, get cash out of the bank) - you miss the good deals to people that know how to get a deal. you want reliable - pay particular attention to the PERSON, not the car. retired, doctor, career person with a busy family life, or moving, or starting residency school, or moving to a city and going carless. these types of people are much more concerned with liability than some desperate person needing to make a buck off their car. they'd trade it in, donate it to charity, or sell it with big cautions signs "needs work" before assuming any liability or makign someone mad. professionals/career/family types respond well when you talk cash, paper work, DMV, taking/towing the car, taxes up front too - the perception that you know what you're doing implies this will be easy, you've done it before, and you might not be a shady craigslist tire kicker desperate for money because of poor financial/life decisions and therefore needing a cheap car. takes a little time but with patience and a good game plan you can end up in a cheap Subaru that makes 100,000 miles rather easily.

look what things are selling for on ebay, craigslist, autotrader. if you come in just below those prices - it'll usually sell quick. 300k cars with blown headgaskets are worth little more than scrap. even in superb condition with leather and immaculate i'd be surprised to get $500 for it unless you just get really lucky with a 17 year old salivating over his first Subaru. i just searched a local site and found a blown 2000 EJ25 for $500 (after I typed that last sentence). but it is a 2000 and newer generation so they're easier to sell. more than likely they'd take less than $500 and it doesn't have 300k on it though it didn't say. $650, 100,000 less miles, and doesn't need an engine in western MA: https://westernmass.craigslist.org/cto/5494531564.html $499 and it runs and drives: https://westernmass.craigslist.org/pts/5502604192.html if you're trying to get lucky and get a huge price tag on what is a low valued car - plan on listing it for a long time and hoping to find that sucker willing to pay more than the average person. so in some ways it's waiting for someone who is desperate and wants a really bad deal. most people will know better or maaaaybe you'll get lucky finding a Subaru loving retired guy bored and just wanting a cheap Subaru down the street. in that case sometimes selling local is better - people shopping on craigslist, ebay are genearlly a little more savy with pricing and seeing what everything else is selling for (like listings above and hundreds more like them).

subaru's are not good dedicated tow vehicles. they're simply undersized. if you've ever been in an emergency situation while towing a large load - you'll know what a difference size makes when seeing what pushing and loosing control of a large load feels like (someone pulling in front and slamming on the brakes, a deer, etc) - it's another level of scary than just slamming on brakes and feeling the ABS kick in. a SUbaru woudl never perform in a situation like that - they're simply too small and will get pushed like a piece of paper. i've had that happen in my truck - and it's plain scary (though so far avoided accidents each time), if that happened in a Subaru the outcome would have been different. that being said, i tow with them all the time - large boats and other cars (i've towed outbacks with outbacks) over the tow limits - it's a really bad idea unless it's for short distances, you can time it out at night/low traffic/light grades/etc. with a car trailer and car - definitely a bad idea. you're in ohio so it's flat and super easy cake walk to tow compared to long haul or mountainous terrain. i can literally move a huge 16 foot trailer by hand in a flat parking lot. that same trailer i can't move 1 foot up even a nearly imperceptible incline. people often don't realize how much grades impact towing. Suabru's consistently have cooling issues from people towing at close to or over the limits, big loads, up grades and 95+ high humidity. i've towed multiple outbacks in situations like that - all with the same response - overheating. the cooling systems simply aren't up to that task. but not everyone is towing in a high humidity, 95+ degree summer climate, and 7% grades at interstate speeds or steeper local twisty mountain grades. "tow limits" and owners manuals fall way short in signifying these basic quanfitiable physical properties that have a direct impact on a vehicle's performance. what you can "get away with" and what is safe for the vehicle and other people are a big difference.

Yes, it is flat towable! continue reading to see how/disclaimers. read your owners manual first to familiarize yourself with Subaru's recommendations. can probably google it - other RV owners have Subarus. options (with a variety of seriousness, humorousness, or riskiness): one for sure option not requiring a trailer - remove front axles and disconnect rear driveshaft. (that's only 2 axle nuts (32mm) and 6 bolts (2 19mm strut bolts and 4 12mm driveshaft bolts), and front two wheels. then figure out a way to keep the front diff fluid in the car or drain/refill when you get there. fluid containment issue also exists from the AT if you remove the entire driveshaft rather than just disconnect it. or remove all 4 axles and also deal with rear diff fluid containment in the same way as the front. tow dolly with rear driveshaft disconnected trailer roll the dice - post 2003 i think the 4WD functions the opposite of older trans - meaning the transmission is "unlocked 4WD" when it's off/unpowered. so newer Subarus may be "less at risk" - but still might blow up after 100 miles. drive with the car turned on so fluid is circulating (i've done it for short trips - but still a humorus recommendation for long trip drives an RV implicates)

i'd replace the rear main with a new Subaru OEM seal. yes any automotive machine shop will resurface the flywheel. $40 - $100. definitely do it. exhaust manifold gaskets i'd get from Subaru, if they were replaced with subaru gaskets when the head job was done, you could easily reuse them - the subaru units are very robust.

save your old oil pump then! if you describe your symptoms, car, history, and mileage we might be able to help track it down. but if you replaced the oil pump that usually means larger work ahead of you - replacing HLA's and the lower metal reinforced cam case carrier oring. a sticking HLA will only be in one specific location - you can narrow it down with a mechanics stethoscope. sometimes you can pull the valve covers - which is easy for anyone who can replace their oil pump - and rotate the engine by hand and watch the HLA's for any signs of issues. mizpah engineering sells rebuilt HLA's for like $8 or something crazy or rebuilds yours for $5. other causes usually generate multiple HLA's ticking, on multiple cylilnders or both sides or it changes over time - but can vary quite a bit so this isn't exact. the only easy fix that's a crap shoot is to try some oil related treatments - changing oil frequently, higher solvent contents, with the hopes that frees up any HLA's.

i've heard IAC's do this before, and it's been awhile but i think they only do it when the key is in the ignition (engine off). but i suspect you've probably already just unplugged the IAC as a test anyway right? get a mechanics stethoscope? i'd try to narrow down the issue before attempting a repair. i feel like a lot of times when i guess on weird issues it ends up wasting me a lot of time - though new grounds/wires wouldn't be a total waste! unplug the main engine harness - does it go away then? maybe that would differentiate engine harness/sensors with alternator/starter/cabling since those are separate harnesses (although it looks like you basically ruled out the alternator already)? i'd unplug every easy component in that area - coil pack, IAC, alternator, power steering connector, A/C connector, and any of the easy to reach solenoids. have you tested your parasitic battery draw yet - should be under 100 milliamps.

i prefer the H6, but i can see it sort of bein a toss up depending how you look at it: the H6 has fewer (like 1) but a more ominious issue and is more expensive generally (up front and gas mileage) the H6 has one big issue - headgaskets. it can strand you, is costly / pig of a job and replacement engines are less common/a bit more pricey (particularly 2005+ models). the H4's have a bit more issues and maintenance. but they're cheaper up front (usually), cheaper gas, good engines, and OEM headgaskets usually give years and 50,000 miles to plan a repair. i've never had a problem running regular gas in H6 Subaru's - EZ30 or the newer tribeca EZ engine.

yes, but it's largely benign for a few reasons. it's rare, i think only early models (maybe only 2001's or both 01-02), can be driven 100,000 miles even if they're making noise, and you can test drive and listen for it. so while it's an "issue" it's nothing catastrophic, negligible risk, low concern, presents itself on a test drive, making it really low priority for most 15+ year old inexpensive subaru purchases.

yeah EJ pumps have few differences over the decades - ifit looks the same it'll probably work. it's usually the ujoint being rusty in the rust belt. subaru power steering pump failure is rare. if you suspect the pump it should be making noises. look for bubbles in fluid reservoir. secure any hose leaks (the rubber return hose) and the reservoir oring itself should be replaced. breaches cause air to be sucked into the fluid and disrupts pump functioning.

maybe focus on trans if that's the one that clearly has the issues? it sounds like the engine is fine - a rattle is usually something benign like a heat shield. towing shouldn't be a big deal - as mentioned tongue weight should be kept at proper levels and know the actual weight you're pulling - boat, trailer, gear, gas, etc. i tow in excess of weight limits and haven't had suspension issues. at 200,000 miles i installed beefier turbo baja rear springs when installing new struts since that car is usually carrying loads - family or is the tow vehicle or both.

The H4 head gaskets are much easier to diagnose usually as they leak externally. Get a good h6 and they're awesome. No timing belt very limited maintenance. Replace the two serpentine bearings as soon as you gret one and replace them every 60k - 100k. They fail regularly but are only $10 and less than 30 minutes to replace. Real simple maintenance.

Look for every sign of head gasket you can. H6's do have head gasket failures and they are prone to: 1. Overheating, sometimes in hard to reproduce situations. 2. Also prone to being sold with existing head gasket issues for that reason. I've seen in inordinate percentage of H6 for sale with HG issues. No doubt because they're crazy expensive to repair and easy to trade in or sell at auction or sell outright due to their ability to hide symptoms. H6's are great and i prefer them as well but walk the head gasket line cautiously. The single best tip is to assess the seller. If they just got the car or it was sold atvsuction recently or they know nothing about it or don't/can't answer any questions then that's suspect and you need to read my list of checks below. If it's a single owner professional selling the car after 10 years with maintenance records and no major repairs and has a family and kids and meets you in front of his house and just need the car gone, that's Much better and worth a premium. If you have limited info then go into it with the idea you'd likevto rule out the head gasket as the reason it has changed hands recently: Look for any prior cooling system work - new rad cap, new coolant, new radiator, hoses. Look for dried coolant residue around rad cap battery and anything in that vicinity. Look at drivers side headlight and fender for any cloudiness from hot coolant spraying on it. Let it idle awhile with AC on high. Drive car extensively with a/c on and off highway speeds. ideally check radiator and overflow tank coolant level before and after test drive to look for comsumption. This is annoying since you'd have to wait for car to cool down. Look for bubbles in overflow tank at idle and after a highway stint. I've seen and bought all of these issues before including by dealers and people flipping auction cars. They are no doubt hitting auctions for this reason. Used sellers are clueless and just flipping them

And still good suggestion maybe if I encounter another sheared captive nut debacle. Still haven't fixed that one! But don't need or use that car.

Oh I'll find it this is easy. just flew out of town for work for a week so thought is get some pointers before I get back. It's not much to it. Thanks guys.

Oh right I had one do that last year on a tear sedan strut. It was a new aftermarket unit blew out in two days.