idosubaru

diagnose the noise. another 25+ year old motor isn't likely to be show room quiet either. www.car-part.com i've bought EA82's on ebay

It's over due by age and nearly due by mileage for a timing belt job. Install a complete kit with pulleys and tensioner. $600 - $1,000 at a shop/dealer. Or $200 if you DIY. It's easy - takes 3 hours or less. Wheel bearings fail routinely on those - they are bolt in bearings and cheap and easy to replace. Not as problematic as older Subaru bearings can sometimes be. 2005's had some catalytic converter recalls/issues - see if that VIN qualifies and if any work/servicing was done/needed for that? ATF, front diff, and coolant fluids should all be changed shortly if they havent' been already. Those all directly impact engine and transmission longevity.

if the ticking is always isolated to one (or two) HLA's/areas then: 1. they frozen/stuck if this is the case - pull the avlve cover and see if they appear notably stuck/less movable than the rest. as i think i've already detailed earlier. 2. the oil pump is still the cause and those are the first ones affected for a litany of reasons (age, wear, distance from pump, oil supply routing if this is the case - replace the oil pump.

+ resurface the flywheel

intermittent is normal. no it's not the timing belts. i'd replace the oil pump - with new or positively known good one.

shipping varies wildly so it's hard to compare. Advance Auto is my go to source often, and usually for struts. Pick up in store (if available) or free shipping over $50. But there are parts I get from Subaru (headgaskets, CV boots, tstat) or Rockauto (brake hardware - clips/boots). Your front strut is $62 (with 5% discount) + shipping at Rockauto $67 (with $40 off) from advance auto After shipping basically the same price. Both rears are $115 with shipping from Rock Auto or $122 from Advance Auto Parts and 30% off. Buy smart/creatively and you can get 40% off - reducing the gap to zero or advance auto's favor. Total (using my zipcode) Rock Auto is $247 and Advance Auto is $256 if I only use 30% off on the rears - with creative buying/discount codes and $40 off per hundred Advance Auto would be $238 and cheaper than Rock Auto. If they're local you can pick up parts in store 30 minutes after you order it online, buy more parts than you need and easily return what you don't use, rent tools, compare parts, look at their computer screen, verify parts yourself, store has helped me out before with parts issues. I'd pay a little more for all that benefit - but usually I buy such that it's cheaper anyway.

*** is the "wobble" gone now that you did that work? 1. still air in the lines - this seems most likely given you just had the system all apart. Subaru ABS is simple and should be a non-issue regarding this. This seems unlikely but the second possibility is a leak somewhere. most common sneaky leaks are the rear lines that snake across the top of the gas tank. they can leak brake fluid and never be seen. you'll have limited brake pressure. eventually the leak will be bad enough that enough fluid collects on top the tank and then runs down or the hole blows out big enough to make a visible mess under the vehicle. subaru master cylinder, ABS, and booster failures are so rare you'd be throwing parts and wasting time/money to just guess on those without a very specific diagnosis/suspicion.

how about just use the older trans in it's entirety instead of swapping guts? speed sensor differences i'm unsure of.... it'll bolt to the engine, axles will slide right on, and both should be 4.11 final drive. there are some 3.9 final drives - even in that case you could just swap the rear diff to match. rear driveshaft length i'm uncertain about but that's easily determined if you've got the parts there to measure/compare and not hards to work around anyway.

that's a nice option. would that give enough room to also replace the pilot bearing and throw out bearing? pressure plate obviously not a problem? lay some carpet or something on the engine - all sorts of things will poke scratch and grab as you lay across and reach down there.

engine or trans has to come out. there's no way to just simply separate them and squeeze a clutch in there. borrow or rent a cherry picker? use a come along or winch over some trees or garage trusses (weight properly spread across more than one truss) jack the car up really high, strap the engine to something and then lower the car. transmission *can* be quicker and simpler (but it rarely is). there's less work - just exhaust, axles, rear shaft, shifter, and out it comes. no coolant draining, radiators, fans, A/C, power steering, battery, fuel, cruise, intake.... but it can be a PIG of a job too - lying on your back on a cold ground, limited working space, light, dirt and rust falling in your eyes, crawling under and out under and out every time you forget a tool, hard to get leverage with tools/extensions. dropping the transmission is also possible without any special tools. just strap it to a jack and push it up in there. it's not very fun and could potentially take forever for someone doing it the first time trying to man handle a heavy 4WD trans under a car. but - i've definitely had transmissions out quicker than engines before. kind of depends on you and the work environment.

Gates kits on amazon are great. theimportexperts on ebay was my previous main supplier but i think they've gone up in price, haven't bought in a few years.

at this point of your tear down - you could read GD's thread on how to DIY resurface your heads and probably just do your engine block for the price of sand paper and WD40. check it out, it's really easy.

sand paper. i think 400 grit is roughly the one that gives a proper surface finish (GD has it listed in his thread about DIY head resurfacing). i'd probably go with that but it's unlikely to matter either way - if it's flat and done right the chances of having issues are miniscule.

how long have you driven it and are you likely to keep driving it? if yes - then an engine swap makes more sense.

if the 4WD works like you described - another nearly free and easy option is install a switch to manually lock and unlock the Duty C solenoid for off road and snow driving. Quite a few of us have installed those switches anyway even on perfectly working systems so we can lock it up full time in the snow and off road. you'd just have FWD when it's off. 1. make sure the FWD fuse isn't installed in the FWD fuse holder by the passengers side strt tower. (this is what he is referring to by the FWD light - though i'd still check both the light and fuse since the light may not work 2.. does the AT light flash 16 times at start up? 3. any check engine lights (shouldn't matter but let's check) 4. look at the trans pan and see if it's dented or has tell tale signs of having been removed before. check the fluid level and color though this almost certaily can't be it if everything else is golden. Subaru TCU's almost never fail, that would be a shot in the dark.

those 1990's had a clogging ATF line issue. Subaru provided a kit for remedying that situation. make sure you don't have that $20 fix on your hand first before looking into a transmission. www.car-part.com

it bolted right up? definitely follow up on that. i have a kubota and have certainly thought about it. i think the tricky part is the HP is gonna be really low or the engines typically very expensive.

california has a regular showing of cars - good climate for rust free, huge population centers and a reasonable subaru presence. i bought my 1988 XT6 from California and considered others. still has the original exhaust on it and my 2002 and 2003 outbacks have all had exhaust work/replacement. lol southeast cars can be from the northeast so assess appropriately.

if coolant is full then lower 4 days later the coolant is going somewhere. look for leaks.

http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/146583-cam-tower-o-rings/ http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/69347-did-i-get-the-wrong-bloody-o-rings/ thepartsbin.com used to carry them but i haven't ordered from there in 10+ years if they even exist still... there's also the clip-on orings for the oil supply ports to the cams (1 per side on EA82's and 3 on XT6's)

1. chase the threads - install a new spark plug - as aleady mentioned you likely didn't strip them all 2. helicoil - get a long drill bit or extension 3. get a "no drill required" kit: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/fix-a-thred-m14-1.25-plug-saver-kit-1-each-insert-s-n-l-98141/9020056-P i'm pretty sure seeing a repair kit 10 years ago that's a self tapping insert - which then has a different (smaller) sized spark plug you thread into it. but a search yielded nothing, maybe i'm dreaming.

after 10 years the maintenance and history are far more indicative of transmission life than the transmission and mileage itself. assessment is your best friend here.

gotcha - that's what i thought you meant, just making sure. oh okay - i have a 3/4" impact rated at 1,000 ft/lbs usually used on rusty fasteners and it often can't get axle nuts off - so i might go with larger short length hose in the garage and then the normal sized hose available for longer runs outside the garage. i have a bunch of left over PEX tubing maybe i should install multiple runs all over the garage and just have a short length of hose to attach to those...LOL

99 EJ22's are not as reliable as they're 98 and earlier predecessors. if i were looking at it there are two major points i'd hone in on to avoid pulling an engine: the water pump/radiator replacements - are they chasing headgasket issues? why and in what order were the replaced? if radiator....then water pump....sounds like chasing overheating and possible headgasket issues. shutting off and check engine light and recently replaced timing belt - was the belt replaced because it broke, was it improperly replaced - both of which could cause valve damage, poor compression, poor idling. i'm not suggesting a diagnosis - but both of those are common enough on poor running, cheap, craiglist specials i'd definitely investigate and hesitate on assuming "best case scenario".

10 x 1.25 would be correct maybe he mis-understood you on thread size? anyone with a phone can look it up in 2 seconds, show him this: http://www.amazon.com/Helicoil-5543-10-Metric-Thread-Repair/dp/B0002SRG34/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1455825864&sr=1-1&keywords=10+x+1.25+helicoil timesert is another option and sometimes lower priced.