idosubaru

wow. well. done. i would love to be able to dive into that too, that's just too cool!

Have the check engine light read, lots of places do it free. Post the number like this: P0335 why do you think that? crank sensors can cause no start issues after shutting the car off when it's still warm. it'll crank over just fine but not fire correctly. Coolant temperature sensor is another common problem area. with a check engine light the obvious starting point is to read the code though. do that first and let us know what it is (sometimes there are multiples and one causes the other...so let us know what they all are). it's unlikely to be fuel related in the fuel filter/fuel pump sense, common misconception.

cam or crank sensor ignition coil pack igniter any check engine light?

yep - radiator. radiatorbarn.com has great prices shipped right to your door, $89 shipped for the last 2000 EJ radiator I bought. no way, this shouldn't be a big deal at all. should handle mountains at 100 degrees, A/C on, and high humidity without thinking about it. keep the temps down until you get it fixed.

some of the stuff can be rebuilt but he's definitely told me stories of transmissions and such that literally can not be repaired. doesn't mean there's not a work around but they don't make it easy. GD has a funny way of describing german vehicles, maybe we will chime in here LOL - something like they are built for the driving experience....at the cost of everything else. if it takes a hit monetarily, or reliability, or ease of maintenance or functionality or practicaliy...it doesn't matter so long as they maintain that "german driving experience" or "engineering".

by buddies response to a "give me a 1 minute synopsis of an 02 330i that needs a clutch": "I like the 330i but depending on how the clutch failed the engine's output bearings are susceptible to heat and failure. The clutch, itself, is not a necessarily difficult or expensive fix. The things that are expensive are all the electronic sensors and motors that fail because of leaky seals. The oil loss, if not internal, is par for the course with a high mileage engine. Check compression, do a visual on the head gasket edge near the back. The head is not machinable (from experience). On a low mileage engine oil consumption most likely from leaking recirc check valve or vacuum pump." "Also listen for valve noise - the oiler lines are tiny small and starvation happens quickly with low oil pressure. The M54 engine in this car also has classic cornering low oil pressure problems, but OK for everyday driving."

as long as you avoid dealers i think you'll be fine, they are beyond insane to maintain at a dealer. that's probably why yours is on the market, they got a price quote for the clutch job... probably a good idea to see if there are any huge looming issues with the exact motor in that car - like bottom end issues or something. 7 minus 2 leads to 5 quarts, doesn't sound that bad to me...i'd be more worried that it at some point was run lower than that. friend of mine is a BMW fiend and knows everything about them, but i'm sure you can just look it up online too. i sent him a text.

The smell isn't necessarily that much of an indicator as all sorts of things will burn off as things get a little hotter than normal. As to overheating: Are both fans coming on when it's running hot and A/C is on? Is there any coolant loss in radiator or overflow (both need to be checked)? If it's that predictable then first thought is it simply isn't able to dump all the heat which makes me think the fans aren't coming on or the radiator is clogged. Does it only do it during the day time when it's hot outside or will it do it at night too? Be advised that 05 4 cylinders have headgasket issues and any amount of running hotter than normal is not going to help your chances. Water pump is highly unlikely.

sounds like you're good to me. hopefully they just free up. in the older motors it doesn't hurt anything that they make noise...it's just really annoying, i would assume the same here though i've never really done any HLA work in EJ's, i've just swapped heads without paying much attention to them. haven't ran across any that make noise yet.

mine broke once i had to replace them, they are very funky in appearance and operation, it wasn't immediately obvious how they install. sounds good, go ahead and bend it. it'll weaken the metal, give it some memory that will eventually fade but who knows if it would be enough to cause any noticeable issues in the future. worth a shot.

those GL's, do they have the same trunk as an RX? maybe those torsion bars or an XT would swap over?

can you get a set of tension bars from a vehicle with a heavier trunk, like with a spoiler? XT's and RX's had spoilers on them, maybe a set from those would work..though you don't say what vehicle so maybe not.

running instead of just idling it may help. it has fresh oil in it right? shouldn't much matter but what weight?

if it's just HLA's needing pumped up - run it. very common with all the EA/ER engines that have HLA's too. sounds like death noise for 10 minutes or so, really bad....shouldn't take an hour, 15 minutes or less in my experience.

title of thread "that offer no coolant recycling", i'm not saying i can't find them, i'm saying there aren't any. though i did inquire some of the gov and got zero. WV is an extremely rural state. largest city is only 50,000 people, the "cities" here would be just suburbs or towns to most states. everything is smaller, less available or in some cases not at all. that means there's a lot of antifreeze state-wide that's going "somewhere" for all the folks that work on their own cars, which is common here.

if it's torque bind don't remove the transmission, it's easier than that. if it's the front diff then junk the trans and get a used one...did you check the trans/diff fluids? save the rear extension housing for the center diff (manual trans) or rear clutch packs/Duty solenoid (auto trans). nice to have on hand if yours goes out later or they're usually needed by someone and easy to sell. as to axle nut removal - a 5 foot pipe will never cease to work. i have a 950 ft-lb 3/4" impact and I've had one or two that it couldn't get off. my 3 foot pipe over the handle wouldn't work on those either, took a longer pipe - like 5 or 6 footer so i'm figuring it was over 1,000 pounds to get off...probably rust around this forsaken area

copy all, thanks guys.

mizpah engineering also has them for like $6 each rebuilt. http://www.mizpahprecision.com/pricing.htm

+1

keep it simple: 1. buy new clips 2. clean and regrease the slides properly and make sure they aren't binding if the slides have a rubber seal on the shaft (some of them do on front calipers, not sure if the rears do sometimes as well). they are notorious for swelling and not allowing full travel in the bore which results in one pad wearing faster than another.

no, it was the low end model that doesn't have gas adapters. copy that, will try that too. thanks rob.

If you're looking to buy something and drive it the next day: based on what you said 1995-2000, i would go with an EJ22. shouldn't be hard to get a decent late 90's Subaru with an EJ22. the 99 special edition legacy's are really nice actually and can be had with EJ22's. although it is the odd Phase II EJ22 variant. if you're willing to put a little legwork into it: it's also not that hard to find a great vehicle with a blown motor (Ej25's are a dime a dozen) for $2,000 and then spend $3,000 putting another engine in it (EJ22) plus all new timing belt, water pump, reseal, etc. you could get it done much cheaper than that though, that is really high end. CCR sells newly rebuilt Ej22's for somewhere around there with a 3 years warranty i believe. so for $5,000 you could end up with an EJ22 with a warranty. transmission doesn't much matter for reliability. i'm starting to tire of manual transmission. manual trans have clutches, input shaft bearings, and center diff failures, making them no more reliable or cheaper than auto's. you'll be at the mercy of it's 15 year past more than anything no matter which way you choose.

cool, i've never intentionally varied the distance much like that, i'll try that next time. thanks! had to do that on hard to reach stuff before and recall what you're saying.

i have a basic box store wire feed mig welder. almost exclusively use it for exhaust and removing sheared/stuck/rusted fasteners. welding sheet metal on a legacy fender did not go so well. no matter what amps or feed rates i selected it would burn through the metal. i eventually got it to stick but it was ugly. is the exhaust that much thicker, because i have no problems welding that?

plug and play swap. remove entire EJ25 and install entire EJ22. bolts right in and plugs right up. power steering lines won't have the same connections/brackets but it doesn't matter, i just leave them hanging. you can swap brackets off the EJ25 or something though if you want. have the EJ25 a/c bracket handy as i think that is different as well, but it's just a matter of putting the EJ25 bracket on the EJ22.