idosubaru

there's a few different EA82 long blocks. do you know which you have? it'll run fine, you just have to be very careful with it. run it like a daily driver and it'll last. push it and they easily blow. you'll have some oil return lines from the turbo that need to bolt into the head which doesn't have the fitting/hole in it on the non-turbo block. so you'll have to work around that. use the turbo heads or find another work around. the turbo heads would be easiest and gives you new headgaskets too. use Fel-Pro permatorques on this engine and add 5-10 foot pounds, that's what many of us do that have done a bunch of these engines.

good luck with it. thanks for posting that link. there's some parts and stuff that typically "fall out" of place when you pull it off, kind of disturbing when you first do it, wondering where/how they go. not sure if anyone has posted details on that before or maybe an FSM picture would help.

This is an abnormal overheating issue, even for your style engines that have overheating. How many miles? You may need a new radiator. I just replaced one in a 2000 Forester. It was very predictable. Weather temperature and driving style dictated exactly when it would overheat - sounds similar to yours. I got a radiator for only $90 or so off http://www.radiatorbarn.com and they're very easy to install. Does the mechanic know Subaru's well? Two important items specific to this engine: 1. They easily get air trapped in them and can be difficult to bleed air out of the coolant system. Getting it out is referred to as "burping" on the forum. A few folks have "tricks" and suggestions for getting it all out. 2. This engine REQUIRES a Subaru coolant conditioner added to the coolant. Was this done every time the radiator was drained (it has to be drained to replace the t-stat), so it's been drained like 2 or 3 times. A couple of dollars at Subaru - shake the bottle really well - and dump it in your radiator (when the radiator is cold obviously). The mechanic is right, those seeping headgaskets can stay that way for a REALLY long time without getting worse - like 100,000 miles.

i agree, you may want to verify the diagnosis but giving us some details. forums like this can be more efficient than mechanics at diagnosing something since we're extremely versed in Subaru's. i joke that i can address anything Subaru related and nothing about anything else. those two $200 transmissions at that number are in TX and from 1998 Foresters. may want to verify that it'll work in your vehicle but i believe they will. there were some changes at some point, I just can't keep straight when.

Forester wasn't offered in 1995 - can you clarify what year it is or if it's another make - legacy or impreza? Yes, mismatched tires can hose the transmission. Sounds like you already have it diagnosed as a front differential failure. How sure are you that this is right? I'd replace the trans. They don't fail often so that means they're cheap since there's low demand. For instance here's two in texas at this number: 915-877-5353 $200 tested with warranties! great price. I'd buy 5 of those before paying crazy amounts for a rebuild/new on such an old car. Local trans shop where I used to live charged $150 to install your trans. So for $350 plus maybe some add ons for fluid, hoses, etc you're done. You should clarify what year/make so we can make recommendations on transmission as not all subaru trans will have the same final drive ratio to match your rear differential. A forester rear differential isn't the same as any Subaru vehicle made in 1995 so that's why you should clarify that info. You could even fix it essentially for free if you wanted to entertain the idea of running it rear wheel drive and thereby not even "using" the front diff. I make no claims how long it'll work but it's an option for crazy people.

+1 to what nipper said, i missed that. it is rare for Subaru A/C hoses to leak...i've never seen it happen even on my old 1980's Subaru's. And it is statistically improbable for both hoses to need replaced. So it sounds like they're sort of guessing, there was no diagnosis, and they're throwing more parts at it than needed. if it's any consolation our 02 H6 has 170,000 miles of trouble free A/C.

I believe the owners manual is more specific - it calls it something specific which is the Subaru synthetic. Hey we found out you already have what you wanted - synthetic ATF, good news!

you don't have to separate the block. it sort of depends on what the problem is. it could just need new piston rings. so a hone and new rings and you're golden. there's a piston pin access port, pull the clip out, the piston pin and then it can be removed. one thing i'm not sure about is how to prevent debris from the cylinder walls and honing tool from getting down into the block. if the cylinder walls are scored or damaged then you'll need more experienced folks to comment on how or whether it's fixable. it might be simplest to drop off another spare piston and rings and take the block to a shop.

Subaru has different ATF specifications for vehicles starting in 2005 and up. Follow your owners manual recommendations for your vehicle ATF type.

yes a suspension swap to coil overs is the best option for sanity. truthfully the air suspension rides awesome and is cheap and reliable since you can set them up to never need the struts replaced. but that's a pain to get the car that far - replacing 10-20 orings, reconditioning the struts, etc. tons of conversion and XT6 specific information on subaruxt.com. there's quite a few options and different ways to do it. basically there's no "simple" solution that you can just go buy and bolt on. FWD XT6 coil overs are a direct swap but the car doesn't sit level, you can flip the rear strut mount to bring it down an inch or so but it's still a little high in the rear. car ends up sitting much lower than with air suspension as well. more options and info on subaruxt.com. the stumbling could be anything - simply ignition related - plugs, wires, cap, rotor.....any number of sensors - CTS, TPS, MAF....or bad headgaskets. hard to say. in addition to standard used car items to check...fluids, axle boots, check for clutch condition when you're driving. nothing like buying a used car and finding out it needs a clutch.

yes and no. it sounds right for a dealer price quote, but sounds like a terribly incomplete information to let you assess your options. it's a huge job and parts to repair are going to be really expensive. not surprised about the price tag. but very few people would ever do that, there are far better options. a cheaper and simpler solution is to replace the transmission with a used one. you can get a low mileage and warrantied transmission for far less than that. have all the fluids replaced and torque converter and rear output shaft seals replaced before it gets installed. save the rear extension housing of your old trans for future torque bind issues - the Duty C solenoid and clutch packs in particular.

a/c is easy to work on yourself. diagnosing is the hard part. the hard part is finding the leaks, but generally speaking not much commonly leaks on an a/c system. personally - i'd just charge it properly one time with the system sealer cans and see how it goes. i have a few buddies that have had that work for years. if you know the hoses need replaced - then replace them and charge it. it's really easy - just buy a couple cans and the hose at the auto parts store. the hoses are easy - each fitting when you remove a hose has an oring under it, be sure to replace those too - with the green a/c related orings. the autoparts stores have all that stuff.

miles? plugs and wires ever been changed? what cylinder(s) are misfiring? is the noise piston slap?

no, it's just a standard thread. they can be a workhorse to budge. socket and 3 or 5 feet of pipe is what you need or a gun with more torque. be sure you have the engine pinned so it can't rotate while you're hammering or loosening it. keep in mind to tighten it really good when you reinstall too as they will back off and tend to cause a lot of damage if they do.

we need to know what hoses they are - the numbers don't help me. you got dozens of options to help us help you - google search those numbers, google image search for the EZ30 engine, or post your own pic. i'm guessing they're coolant hoses to the heater core. if they're leaking, replace them. a/c isn't working - is it low on charge? be advised, the H6 engine in your car has lots of problems with the idler and tensioner pulley bearings for the drive belt. they fail all the time. i replaced both of my as preventative maintenance and they were both in bad shape when i removed them. the good news is that it's a really simple job - two bearings cost like $10 and it takes 30 minutes to do the entire job....an hour tops maybe if it's someones first time.

yep, start there. belts are typically labeled with writing "SUBARU", a part number, or lines to help install. it's just a visual aid, not a hard science and the writing i'm referring to isn't meant to tell if it's replaced or not, just something easy to check. a 9 year old belt with a 100,000 miles should look different than one recently replaced. post a picture if you're not sure. you can run the car without that cover, it's just a piece of plastic, while you try to determine this. in reply to your PM - yes 3 change method is the best bet for ATF. do not replace the internal screen, complete waste of time. it's called a "filter", but it is not a filter it's just a screen. replace the screw on joker.

if your symptoms are indicative of a particular failure that's a good indicator of what your issue is. check into the symptoms that it causes and let us know if that's what you have. it's interesting, but we do know that this issue you speak of is far less likely to cause torque bind than fluid, solenoid, and clutches. to my knowledge every single case of torque bind i've seen personally and on this board has been fixed by fluid, solenoid, or clutches.

radiatorbarn.com has some awesome prices for radiators some times.

i've done it, so no need to guess or wonder. EJ engines are very similar -all sorts of stuff interchanges. it's a huge list i won't begin to recount, blocks, heads, all sorts of seals, sensors, are interchangeable between EJ18, Ej22, and EJ25. the intake manifold is removed (and the TPS, fuel injectors, all of that is on the intake manifold). oil pressure, CTS, cam, and crank sensors are left in the block or you can interchange them, they're the same.

did this car sit for an extended length of time? are you using any fluids or not putting enough miles on it to tell? okay "she", gotcha. do you know offhand the compression numbers for the turbos? the 108 and 120 is "within range" of one another since i think they say 20% but doesn't sound great. was the throttle propped open and were all spark plugs removed for compression and a really good charge on the battery? each of those will reduce compression numbers or make them inconsistent sometimes. we need someone with a little more turbo experience - what problems would a hosed turbo cause?

that will work fine as long as the wiring is done right, etc. you could wire it to something that gets powered only when the key is in the ignition.

i've always removed them without any special tools. about 5 out of a butt load have been a real pain and i wish i had used a tool. technically you could remove the timing covers without removing the crank pulley....but you have to break them to do it.

i've never heard of the design flaw speculation. post links to your sources and we'll check it out. if it says "the early 4EAT's", then it's wrong already because the first generation of 4EAT's do not have any torque bind issues ever - the late 80's/early 90's stuff on XT6's and some EA vehicles just don't have torque bind.

mine gets 30-33 highway in flat land (but i converted mine also to FWD automatic). drops considerably in the mountains to 25-26 highway due to the lack of power climbing steep grades. OBD stuff has nothing to do with this swap. wtdash mentioned that because of the ECU comment i made - it has nothing to do with swapping the blocks. you could start another thread if you don't understand, otherwise it might confuse someone trying to do a swap. what you don't realize that you're suggesting here is "if you don't change anything, the car won't work." an engine is not OBD anything - the electronics make something OBD, not the mechanical stuff. if you swap *blocks* and not electronics then OBD doesn't matter. he's bolting all of his existing electrical stuff to a new block...so it doesn't matter what OBD it is, because it's getting the same stuff that's already on the car.

Just so he doesn't get confused, that's the CTS I mentioned. Green nastiness on the connector metal spades/slots may mean you're onto something.