idosubaru

do the retainers on the side of the trans give access to the bearings? they give access to the seals and driven gear...not sure about bearings. if it's possible, that's only helpful if the front diff is good and it's only the bearings that are bad.

in relation to the relief valve spring/oil supply which HLA is it? is it on an end or one in the middle? did you try to compress any while you were in there replacing that spring? running it a bit more won't hurt. calling mizpah does sound like the best place to start. left the relief springs out, wow! what did it do? was it drivable like that?

you're saying the front diff bearings are bad? are you sure...it's not the axle is it? remove the front axles, install the CV's in the front hubs, and run it RWD. if you're capable of swapping a transmission then a better bet is to just buy a car that needs some work and fix it. easy to end up with a daily driver impreza or legacy that way. the older ones are dirt cheap now and you can even get really nice late 90's stuff for cheap that need work.

no, i'm saying there's no "single" thing to look for. i wouldn't focus on buying "only one with an EJ22" any more than I'd focus on buying "only one with HG's replaced" . there's no magic formula, keep your options open as wide as possible and make a good decision. less owners, maintenance records, private sellers, etc are all a good thing. like GD said, many of us can just buy one cheap with a blown motor and fix it, that's the cheapest option if you can do that. but not everyone can or wants to play that game.

no it's not plug and play (always) but it is easy. bolt EJ25 intake onto the EJ22 (a thing you can't do with older engines but you can here). count the triggers on the sprockets and swap them if they're different. but that's really easy and being inteference you should be installing a new timing belt anyway IMO. you could also bolt your Phase II EJ22 heads onto a Phase I Ej22 block and install that. not sure how bad the drop in compression would be, but it would definitely run.

I dont' think i missed anything - I had your symptoms and have mentioned it twice: my 1997 Impreza Outback did the same thing - it would not come to a stop as long as the ABS pump was activating. Same thing, exactly as your saying...it won't stop. Let off the brakes enough or use the ebrake and it would stop fine. Same thing. Runs awesome in the snow now with good tires. You can find my old thread that sounds comically similar to this - I'm totally PO'ed about it, blaming the ABS, talking about how stupid ABS is with my tons of tread all seasons...then when I get new tires the car performs great. Definitely disable them, I've been there and know the feeling and it's definitely nothing close to safe how limited the ABS system is. I'd like to put a similar set of tires on a newer subaru and see how similar or not they are.

first assumption is incorrect. the second is correct. i already mentioned a nearly identical situation in the first post - this car would stop fine with the ebrake and had as you described "good all seasons with plenty of tread: good tires will solve this, particularly new tires. rubber degrades with time and that affects snow traction the most. tires with a few years are terrible in snow. yes, as I know what you're saying and have experienced it and agree with you in the first post it's crazy that the ABS gets so whacky and confused - the ABS is overreacting and less than efficient with poor tires, it's good to know. but now that you do know you'll have to bite the bullet for proper performance....just like rotating Subaru AWD tires, it's something that has to be done for the system to not be damaged.

intakes are not interchangeable. you install a complete motor with an appropriate wiring harness and plug it in. does it look like the EJ22 wiring harness is going to plug into your EJ25 vehicle? if not then you need an OBDII EJ22 intake manifold or swap the EJ25 wiring onto the EJ22 intake manifold. if one has EGR and the other doesn't that's going to complicate things as well, let us know which have EGR on them and if you care about check engine lights or not.

Like he mentioned, technically you have to disconnect the brake line. But that's really annoying so most of us cut a very tiny slot in the bracket so you can then "bend" the L shaped portion in such a way that you can slide it out so as to avoid opening the lines. then insert and bend it back to reinstall.

95 has the single piston smaller calipers so 14's will clear. jamal's (i'm sure you've already seen it JCE but for others) break caliper thread is a fantastic resource for information regarding brakes...and wheel fitment.

The exhaust is not routed to the right rear unless maybe you have a postal right hand drive vehicle or something different. Exhaust is left rear. There is a "chance" the noise and O2 code are related....if the exhaust has a leak...maybe this is a "hissing" sound, then that can trip an O2 sensor code. You mention O2 code - there are various O2 codes. Some (like the P0420 i believe) often will not be fixed just by replacing it. If you tell us which O2 sensor code you have we can help guide how to fix that (which may or may not mean replacing the sensor depending which code and which sensor it is), and if it's related to the noise or not. There are some very competent folks on here but without seeing, hearing, touching, driving, inspecting the car it really helps to have important information on hand. A CEL is always good to know and we would want to see the actual code number, not just what some guy at an Autoparts store tells you what it is.

Nice re-wording of ABS! That's the issue. Trying to run in treacherous weather with sub-par tires. If everything is in working order it will perform well with quality new snow tires, guaranteed. Please vent, I've done it before I'm sure you can find my old post and agree that's it's a scary for this not to be more common knowledge. On steep grades in the mountains - without ABS I can stop, with ABS the car is not capable of stopping. I put new tires on that same car and it performed flawlessly and does now for a friend that now owns it. I now have multiple sets of dedicated snow tires for the winter - amazing how much better it is. Now, how you deal with that is up to you - pull the fuse, get new tires, get dedicated snows (my preference), etc. But there is a known and viable solution. Treacherous weather is what it is and winterizing some vehicles is legit.

There's no silver bullet. 26 owners, rebuilt title, tons of rust, shady guy that doesn't know anything about the car....but hey it's got another motor in it Like previous poster said in some ways a one owner vehicle that's never had the headgaskets replaced is a really nice buy for the long term and lesser risk...sort of. no worries about overheat or how long the bottom end is going to last. A multiple owner vehicle that's already had the headgaskets replaced begs the question "How bad was it overheated?" When these early EJ25's blow they overheat quick, but some folks try to limp them somewhere or drive them a few miles before deciding what to do. One that's been EJ22 swapped is a good bet too. There are also some late 90's models that have the EJ22 but unfortunately they usually come on lesser optioned and less desirable models.

You're positive it's a 95 right? Everything changes in 96, when the Outback was officially introduced in it's current form. Subaru:

tighten or replace your gas cap and check for rust on the gas tube. given that you live in ohio the rust sounds likely, we have it all the time. up above is a search function, best thing to do is just to type that exact code into the search function. P0440 and you get a ton of hits like this one: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=63049&highlight=P0440 google works well too.

i too would start with the thing you will have to replace anyway - the O2 sensor. clear and drive and see what returns. there's no way, except for a freak accident, that all three coils failed. so you didn't explicitly say it - but you had the serpentine pulley failure right? be advised - there are two pulleys both with the same bearings and both have frequent failures. the bearings are like $5 and easily replaceable - it takes literally a matter of minutes. i would have the other one replaced now if it wasn't. i replaced mine preemptively and they were not in great shape, glad i did. this is a really common failure on the H6's...but luckily it's really easy. i did both of mine for like $6 (i got the bearings cheap) and 20 minutes, it's really easy. this is a timing chain.

it might help to know what car, year, model we're talking about. some other really important information: is it completely constant and never varies? if it varies - how? with engine speed, at idle, acceleration, deceleration, turning, etc. fuel pump is centrally located and the exhaust is not on the right side either so that rules both of those out. right/left is determined as if you're sitting in the car so "left" means drivers side, is that how you were using it? sometimes d/s, p/s or drivers side, passengers side is more clear. the rear right houses some evap stuff...but you haven't mentioned year/vehicle and that stuff can be up front too. do you have a charcoal canister up front? ever have a check engine light? need some more info but my first thought is the heat shield.

+1 get the fluid out and replace the pump is what i'd do with the next rack. that and just run this one another year and see what happens!?

the system is really simple so it's easiest to just fix the existing set up. is yours hosed or you're looking for something specific? if yours is just broke they're usually really easy to fix. that being said i've done it before - i bolted a semi-flexile metal ride directly to the armature on the passengers side of the trans and ran it up into the cabin so i could just push/pull it by hand. it was literally just a metal rod sitting there, i did nothing to make it look cool but you could rig a lever of some sort.

You found some good company then, you should like it here.

never heard of that, i'd go elsewhere. i've seen severe rust cause the tire to sort of "cave in" but i think that would wear the inside edges, not the outside. maybe it depends where the weak metal is. you usually don't have the kind of rust out there that we have right?

actually a better option is probably to just do a compression test on all 4 cylinders. i mis-spoke a bit since I now see it's a Phase II, I haven't dug into a broken belt Phase II yet. but what i recommended is so easy i'd give it a try anyway. they usually run with bent valves but not good. *edit

too soon, i'm out of town and want to look into this thing first anyway as i'm not going on anything more than what they told me. thanks for the offer db.

that's a wide scope of a repair, which would insinuate they finally nailed it this time as opposed to the failed attempts with the spring and road force balancing. they still have all that garbage with RFB in there, what a comic strip.

yes, it's a simple plug and play swap and bolts right in. the entire EJ22 block and intake manifold stays together, bolts right in and plugs right in. there's only two things to know: you're going to need a single port exhaust pipe. just need the pipe, it all bolts right in place. install engine, install the EJ22 exhaust manifold and it'll bolt right up to everything else. that year EJ22 is single port exhaust and the EJ25 is dual - but they bolt up to the rest of the car and are otherwise the same. also - make sure the 1997 EJ22 has EGR - there is absolutely no way to know for sure if it does or not without just physically looking for it, subaru seemingly randomly put non-EGR engines in a very few number of vehicles. your EJ25 will have EGR though, so make sure the EJ22 does as well. but actually - i'd probably just repair the EJ25 honestly if it's a known good motor. so far every broken timing belt EJ25 i've seen only need a headgasket job with a couple valve replaced. they didn't sustain major piston damage or anything. i'd want the known good motor and quality work done over the 15 year old used motor with unknown history.