idosubaru

Subaru OEM is great. Given the significant usage of the cometics on the RS and impreza forums I'd use them without thinking about it too if there was some need or advantage. They'll even custom make different thicknesses, etc. This is one engine you don't want to use a Fel-Pro headgasket on. Great gaskets on some Subaru engines, but not this one. I'd double check to make sure they haven't bee previously replaced.

you don't need more cylinders, just more power. probably want to consider an EJ22 swap: 140 hp instead of the EA82's 97. ER27, EG33, and EZ30 (all 6 cylinders) have been done but it's more work and less room to work with. and those motors are typically much more expensive, except the ER27, but that's essentially just an EA82 with 2 more cylinders and only 145 hp - EJ22 is more modern and a better engine to work with. of course it all requires wiring.

not sure about MAF/MAP but some sensors can fail without triggering a CEL. it's rare but it happens. i've seen issues with O2 sensor (once), TPS (once) and crank sensor (two or three times) cause no start or poor running without throwing a CEL.

right, timing belt definitely is not slipping. if it has issues when it's cold then that might suggest the O2 sensor isn't the culprit of the current issues since it's not used until operating temperature is reached. i guess i'm forgetting something because i thought O2 sensors varied between 0 and 1 and you've got 2.8? even if 2.8 is okay though i think O2 sensors can be "slow" and below par in terms of response time, which an oscilloscope may show. front O2's are generally maintenance items around 100k, so at that mileage I would personally just replace it since I'd plan on owning it another 100k and the original probably won't be accurate to then. but i can understand not wanting to replace it too.

yeah i'd just use the 93 short block and keep it simple - bolt the 95 heads and intake manifold to the 93 block. then you retain EGR. you *could* plumb the EGR down to the exhaust and custom fab some lines that way since the "engine" side of the EGR only need to see the exhaust ports. or drill and tap the heads to match. that's a bit more custom. if you live in a state like I do where it doesn't matter, then you can install the 93 long block and not hook up the EGR. you'll get a check engine light that's impossible to get rid of (a ton of threads/posts about that), but doesn't affect how the car drives. we don't have to worry about CEL's in WV so i don't worry about it. i have a non EGR engine and a non EGR ECU in a vehicle that was originally an EGR vehicle - so just swapping ECU's does not necessarily get rid of the EGR codes.

Reading the code is a great place to start, let us know what that gives as there's a lot of things this could be. Did the CEL come on before or after any work was done to it? Appears like it was before? Aftermarket wires are notorious for causing issues. If the issues *started* as a result of replacing the plugs (it didn't exist before but existed afterwards) then I would guess it's still ignition related...so you might try reinstalling the wires, making sure they're dry and seated fully or getting Subaru wires. O2 sensors can degrade. At 107,000 miles you're due for a timing belt change if it hasn't been done yet.

you mention torque bind - that's a relatively easy fix. fix either the Duty C or clutches, or both and in most cases you're good to go. if someone wanted more ATF filtering another, and far better in my opinion, solution would be to install an add-on external ATF filter in line with the ATF hoses. welcome aboard, you should like it here! i'm actually from Westminster, used to work there and in greenbelt, not too far from you, i go back there often.

oh okay, now i see better. be very careful with Rockauto - they don't list parts very well (though in this case it doesn't appear you were lead astray). but for future reference they list 4 cylinder parts for 6 cylinder cars and numerous other incorrect parts...which wouldn't be a big deal except that when you drill down you select which engine/model. anyway - i always double check rockauto part numbers with somewhere else or don't buy if i'm not 100% sure, i've gotten the wrong parts before because of their hokey listings....a friend just got wrong brake hoses in the fall too. you're barking up the wrong tree so to speak. but if you like to learn by experience, then by all means just replace it. over time you'll learn and there's nothing wrong with that. but there's no gains to be had here. here's one way to possibly make sense of it - if something is so wrong with your trans that filters are getting clogged or you need better media, then you have much bigger problems than filters - you'll need a new trans shortly. ATF fluid should be changed but it's not going through a combustion process that contaminates it like engine oil. the filter is open on the bottom so any significant contaminants should come out with a fluid drain. even if it didn't though one piece of something isn't going to cause anything and multiple pieces would mean something is seriously wrong. does that suggest a drain and fill has some advantage over flushes?

you're getting mixed up info, where are you shopping? if you ever get confusing information you can look it up somewhere else and usually confirm things in about 30 seconds. like this: try thepartsbin.com: they show the metal filter for your 1993 Legacy (and no spin on external filters): http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1719+11736+4294963352&Ntt=transmission%20filter and the spin on external filters for the later models (scroll down to see it here): http://www.thepartsbin.com/catalog/?N=1719+11735+4294963366&Ntt=transmission%20filter you could repeat that same search at autozone, advanced auto parts, napa...and get confirmation dozens of different places. and it would all be totally in agreement with everything you'd read here and you could realize that wherever you're getting your other info isn't very reliable. replacing the internal "filter" is pointless and wont' gain you anything here. i wouldn't get into the habit of thinking that car manufacturers always do things the same way, there are vast differences.

scroll down this page to see early style EJ22 valve covers: http://www.vortechonline.com/engines/ here's Subaru's website with a valve cover picture that shows the spark plug holes going through the top of the valve cover gaskets of the later PHase II 1999-2001 EJ22's: http://opposedforces.com/parts/impreza/us_g10/type_76/engine/rocker_cover/illustration_2/ that's your two different EJ22's and their valve covers.

the rotor/drum is the same part.

i've never seen chunks, it's always been the thick paste like stuff you mentioned. sounds like you're confident it's bearings but i would make sure it's not the clutch, it sounds like it could go either way. i don't think any assumptions can be made about previous ownership and problems you're having now. clutches can easily last 99k and they can easily fail then too without being "abused"...citing driving, first time clutch drivers, etc. how many times was the oil changed in the trans during the life of the vehicle? often times that answer isn't very many.

I'm curious when/how "changes" happen. Are these changes like this: 12/31 something is XYZ and then on 01/01 it is ABC? That's how it seems like it's assumed (except when there's a known specific date like 1987.5 XT Turbo's). A specific example: are all EJ22's Phase I up until 12/31/97....and then on 01/01/98 (for MY99) they're all the Phase II style? Just wondering if there's ever overlap or how it works. Subaru seems to use the VIN number to determine specifics sometimes rather than manufacture date?

where did you hear that? EJ22's have spark plugs above the VC up until 1999 so that description doesn't seem to distinguish anything or i'm missing something?

you didn't do anything, just removed it and reinstalled it? will you come work on mine!? LOL. good job figuring it out so quick. mine works I just run out of fuel as soon as the gas light comes on, so others said i have something wrong at the base/mesh screen. could you tell by looking at yours what might be wrong with mine? or - did your new bosch unit come as an entire assembly with the screen and all - in which case it shouldn't matter.

great, thanks for the pic's, i have one i need to pull sometime in my OBW. looks like i need a pump and gasket and looks really simple.

if you got a link to that thread (if you're subscribed or know his user name, etc), post it here. is there a difference between Phase I EJ22 and EJ25 piston clearance?

Thanks, I reworded it a bit. I read the same thing but it's easy to get lost in this maze. Phase I EJ22 (or even EJ25?) block with Phase II EJ25 heads.

Topic and post both say "cable" and "need to replace cable" in your post, but then you say "cluster side", not sure what you're trying to do. Clarify what you're trying to do exactly and also vehicle information. Cluster doesn't have to come out to replace cable and the cable doesn't have to come out to replace the cluster - they just have to be disconnected, not removed either way.

are you in a foreign location, those might be different than the US which is what most of us are familiar with? wiki-pedia has some information on EJ engines that might help with even some comments about other markets. in the US: EJ25's are all interference. EJ22's 1997+ are interference. EJ18 are not.

car-parts.com is awesome. all it is is an online database of most of the junkyards in North America. most junk yards close at noon on saturdays, it's rare to find any open behind that....some aren't even open saturdays at all. if you don't mind buying a used part then car-parts.com is the way to go - you can search for the lowest price, buy stuff from the south/west (for no rust), find something close, etc. it beats calling around and they all ship (except for huge stuff sometimes).

remove from the trans and the cable will actually pull out of the sheath then you can attempt to re-oil it if you think the cable is still okay. this way might also get lucky and you can do it without actually removing the cable from behind the speedo. *** i've always removed it, so i don't know if the pull it from the sheath method would work but i'm trying it next time if there is a next time. to remove the entire thing move your seat all the way back so you can stand on your head and reach up behind the dash to pull the cable out. just reach up there and yank it out. the reinstalling part is the harder part of the deal, getting it to line up and seat without being able to see.

Anyone have experience with a Phase I EJ22 block with Phase II EJ25 heads? Not worried about details for getting it to work, only wondering about performance. Searched and saw no others here or NASIOC, everyone is going the other way.

sweet, looks like you got it nailed already, good job! i always pull the line going into the engine, but don't know if it matters or not, probably won't just for testing purposes. looks like there's a bunch from $40-$60 on car-parts.com in connecticut, might be able to find one with saturday hours and have it today. the ebay one is used and $40 after shipping anyway or can ask them to match the price.

OBW's have the lower cladding that's gold. on the doors and front fenders, a small piece just behind the wheel. That's what he's referring too. Either he saw some damage on that or like previous poster said added it for some buffer. Does it matter that he added something so small?