idosubaru

Yes - put in two bottles of conditioner. follow the directions and shake it really good first or it comes out improperly. See how that goes and get back to us, we can likely guide you fixing or getting by on the remaining issues too. In general these seeping head gaskets can last a really long time, like 100,000 miles if you don't run it low on oil or coolant. Just keep adding it. The oil leaks are very likely to be like valve covers or front seals - like cam or crank. Valve covers are really easy and cheap to replace. But i'd see how the Subaru additive does first. It won't slow the oil leaks, but if the coolant leaks subside some it might be worth entertaining a few other items to get you another year or so and a lot more miles out of it.

try some google searches maybe? i'm on dial up so i can't see what's out there. but here's some later model 4EAT info as an example...again I couldn't down load it because of dial up: http://www.spooledupracing.com/download/Manuals/FSM/Subaru/Impreza%2006/1-Training%20&%20General%20Tech.%20Ref.%20Books/4EAT%20(Automatic%20Transmissions).pdf 4EAT's haven't changed much in 20 years although around 98 or so they did have some changes. anything 88-97 4EAT related should be nearly identical in overview. even the newer models won't differ too much.

I found an older first generation 4EAT write up that says lock up does not occur in 1st, N, R, and P, but this is not a legacy. brass bushing, i'm not familiar with what that is. can you describe where it was located? i attached an exploded view from the FSM of the torque converter area if that helps. did you replace the oil pump input shaft - the skinnier shaft that slides into the trans first that the TC slides over top of? i'm wondering if there's play between those two? granted it would seem like that should happen all the time unless it's jheavily related to load? i skimmed the 96 factory service manual and found nothing. the troubleshooting section has all sorts of scenarios and their likely causes - but nothing about noises incurred with or without TC lock up.

being a 96 legacy i'd double check the tensioner set up to be sure, i think you have the old style - but in 97...and possibly 96 i've seen some confusion. a visual check is all you need as the ebay auctions all have pictures for the most part. you can replace the bearings with a press. and you can regrease the existing bearings with a grease gun and carefully injecting new grease under the bearing seal - but that's tedious and nearly impossible to get the seal reinstalled perfectly. i do that on ER27 engines in which case the timing pulley kits are $399 on ebay

there's a few other threads just like yours - if you scroll to the bottom left of this screen you'll see some of the exact same questions as you're asking with quite a few suggestions. remove the master cylinder cap and reinstall it. float may be sticking and mis-reading. you're sure there's plenty of fluid?

There's no way to know how long they will last so most of us just replace them. Do you know what a brand new one feels like? They are tight and barely spin at all because there's actually grease in them. Yours probably whiirrrr right around no problem? The ebay kits are the way to go - much cheaper than in the stores usually. They will likely last quite some time - 3 years and 60k or 105k more, no way to tell. 96 legacy is non-interference (97 is interference) so if the belt breaks there's no engine damage at least on your car, so mostly this just depends on how much you value reliability/your time. If you really want to save a buck and max out your pulleys you can plan on pulling the belt every 30k, once a summer, etc. and inspect them. Or if you don't care and reliability isn't that important to you, just run them. Everyone is different when it comes to costs, reliability, risk, etc.

right on, i can post pictures of some of my old FSM's that are really well used and beat to snot. digitally i can print the one or two pages i need and take out to the garage, it's awesome. or mail them to a friend, post pictures here, etc. win-win.

sounds like it's possibly the teeth in one of the interlocking shafts between the trans/torque converter. something like this: the bad bushing caused some slop of some sort. it was enough to wear the seal which leaked, so seems possible that it could also have had enough slop to cause wear on a set of teeth engaging somewhere - in the torque converter or one of the shafts that engages it. did you replace just the torque converter or any of the shafts with it? you're originally talking about that bushing that slides around the mid-way point of the shaft going into the trans right? it's a circular graphite looking piece that's cut so it'll go around the shaft? if that's the one you're talking about - did you ever find the old one or is it's remnants somewhere in the trans? obviously too late but for something as simple as torque bind, i would have just fixed the original trans. easy to fix and you don't even have to pull the trans to do it. at this point i'd probably rather install the one known good trans you have. swap the rear extension housing and Duty C off the current trans into the old one to fix the torque bind and you got a good transmission. i would probably replace whatever the "new" trans needs though - rather than borrow anything torque converter related off the trans int he car. though i can understand not wanting a 200k trans in there but if it's in good shape?

no one directly answered his question/comment - the factory service manuals are available, right? i own like 20 FSM's, including some 2000+ FSM's, i'm not sure where he would have heard that they aren't available? did he just mean in print or did they change something recently? 2008 EJ25 isn't really a big deal, it's probably nearly identical to most other EJ25 timing belts and you can find out all you need to know here...or just get the FSM. timing belts are easy - line up the sprockets properly and install the belt.

i'll look into the lines and see if i notice anything as you guys mentioned.

I don't have a charcoal canister in my 96 Legacy. I believe it was up front, came out with the motor and then I installed a motor that didn't have a charcoal canister in the engine bay. So now I have no charcoal canister/purge control solenoid? Are there any side effects to that? Seems like something must be missing, I've done nothing to address this but the car has driven fine for the past few years and 40,000 miles. I have a P0440 Purge Control Solenoid Valve code. Where is the purge control solenoid valve located in a car that has the charcoal canister in the rear?

copy i thought you guys were talking all EJ25. good job giving it a try and posting the results here, thanks again. i swapped EJ22 and Ej25 ECU's on mine and noticed no difference at all, now i want to go try again. but mine's a castrated EJ25 to EJ18 and AWD to FWD so not much hope in power gains.

99 legacy is Phase I. only 99 Foresters and Impreza RS are Phase II. manual trans are easy to find either way - with or without EGR are common. it's the non-EGR auto trans that are rare. correct. you're doing something different than the threads/issues you're referencing though. you're talking about manual trans, those issues are with auto trans equipped engine swaps. the auto equipped non-EGR OBDII vehicles are rare and there's no solution so far for swapping to non-EGR. except to live in a state like i do that doesn't care/matter. i have non-EGR block non-EGR intake & manifold non-EGR ECU and i still get the EGR check engine light codes. must be body side wiring related or TCU...or......?? no one on here has been able to figure it out. and i don't think there are existing wiring diagrams for the non-EGR OBDII auto's. it's my beater daily driver so while i'd like to fix it, it's not that high priority for a question no one is able to answer or figure out. *** Thanks for posting this - that's helpful to know that you installed a non-EGR auto ECU into the car and it ran fine without a CEL so far. That tells me the ECU isn't really that crucial to all of this. I cut the EGR wire on mine - but somehow it still "think" mine should have EGR apparently.

thanks, that made me look it up again, silly rabbit. 1988 Subaru XT FSM lists MPFI EA82 and ER27 as 9.5:1 so that corrects/adds to his information above and answers the question about the misinformation I had to begin with.

EA82 is 9.0 CR ER27 is 9.5 CR 97 hp EA82 (@5,200 rpm) 145 hp ER27 (also @ 5,200 rpm) interesting that both are 24 hp per cylinder, but different CR's. where is that CR difference coming from? pistons/headgasket?

Have you compared schematics for them? Wonder what the difference is? Would an OBDI or SVX TCU offer any advantages? a TCU that matches the ECU would seem to have some advantages and TCU's are a dime a dozen. I have one that's not worth much to me.

i know you feel like you got it but without seeing it first hand we have to say the most obvious and common things - +1 for alignment probably being out. did you remove the cam sprockets and did you reinstall them in the proper locations?

i wouldn't fix the torque bind. leave the FWD fuse in place and then install a switch inside the car to manually change between FWD and AWD via that FWD fuse holder. I and a bunch of folks have intentionally done almost the same modification before to allow us to change from AWD to "locked" torque bind situation like you're describing, except we do it on purpose for snow driving. it's awesome. it would be easier for you as you'd only have to tap into the FWD fuse holder circuit rather than the Duty C circuit. in our case we have AWD and then "locked" 4WD (torque bind for you), in your case you'd have FWD and"locked" 4WD. i'd totally take that over digging into the trans (although it's not that terrible of a job actually to fix, but not a walk in the park either). if you're in MD your exhaust should be plenty rusty and fun to remove. (NOT!). AT filters are very rarely replaced, like almost never, hardly any reason to check.

the shop should be able to quote you a price for resurfaced heads, if they can't then you need to go somewhere else that does more head work. you could probably google it too. i'd guess $125 to resurface both heads. call the local subaru dealer and ask the shop who they use, i've done that before. some dealers don't even resurface the DOHC heads, not that i recommend doing that though. i would have paid about $35-$50 each in Maryland, one shop had a minimum one hour charge, the other did not. i pay $12.50 each now with no minimum shop charge, but that's in an economically depressed state.

that's when i first started working on my soobs was when i was in college for engineering. that was purely financially motivated though, i couldn't afford paying someone to do it. now that i can pay for it i don't.

yes they have front and rear diff's. the front is part of the transmission though, "transaxle". you're not going to be using that. the rear is a separate differential unit. automatics should be 4.44 and manuals 4.11. you can verify that by looking it up. if it's a 2000+ S model it would be a locking VLSD rear diff. hmm, i've weighed a few and 50 pounds seems like a rough approximation.

it's an EJ22, you won't need a back up! a machine shop can mill and test the 95 heads for you, they are likely good. any old head should probably be inspected, possibly tested, and possibly gone over with milling, valve job, pressure test depending how many miles you expect. the block is the more questionable part as there's no way to inspect bearings easily.

i know, really. does seem odd so far, but you'll get it. i think the hard part for readers (like us) is that the symptoms seem to have started when you changed the plugs, things like that usually aren't coincidence. the caveat to that is sometimes folks tend to be motivated to do something (like change plugs) if there's a hint of an issue...so maybe the issue was there or starting before you changed the plugs. could that be the case? (i guess you'd say you're not sure since you had a CEL at one point). GIVE THIS MAN A !*($#*&$! Check Engine Light!

87 RX came with an EA82T, so do you have an EA82T or an EA81T? do you not have the heads at all? if it's an EA82T then an SPFI swap might still be a good idea> :headbang:

by "clip" do you mean the actual connector that slides over the battery terminal needs replaced? that's funny mine on my 02 OBW VDC seem to need replacing as well, the negative seems the worst. weird that the newest vehicle i've ever owned is the one needing replaced? all that jumping to start and recharging works the alternator pretty good. it's best to jump a car with the other car running and leave them connected for a length of time because of that - but no one, including me, does that!