idosubaru

EA81? i can't see clearly in the photo to tell what's wet and what is not. doesn't surprise me for old oil to sit there and collect dust/dirt/etc. seems it's often wet there - oil drips from anywhere on the engine and flies back while you're driving and hits that area. the rear main and clutch doesn't seem wet at all? i can't see any other way for oil to saturate the clutch except for the rear main or the rear separator (which it appears this engine doesn't have?).

BMD - i'd add two bottles if it's already leaking. not sure if it matters but considering the severity of the job i'd do it.

great, i'd like to have some more electrical testing tools for sure, i just never know what to get. is a test light the same kind of light they use for testing for current draws as well? i'd definitely like to have one of those then. i didn't know fuses had access points like that, is that all fuses or just the SBF ones? thanks cougar, that's a big help to the electrically challenged like myself.

Pull the fuse and one side should have 12-14 volts? Or do I have to have a light, I don't have a test light. If they're more beneficial than a multimeter I'll get one. thanks.

waiting a little bit did nothing either, still same thing. can't seem to find in the FSM where it shows which fuses (SBF's) carry what. seems like that would narrow this down real quick which one it is if i could find that.

i've only gone from dino to synthetics and never noticed a difference, is it really worth going to this stuff in an average daily driver? i've never tried relieving any particular issue, so if everything is working smooth is there an advantage to using this stuff?

yes have been for a week or so now, been a few mentions of it here, surprised you missed it. search for endwrench and the first two threads after yours are about the site status and USMB efforts to gather articles we may have. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/search.php?searchid=1164173

i disconnected it and will leave it that way for a few minute before i try again, maybe a quick disconnect wasnt' long enough?

i posted before i saw your reply mike, thanks. i just tried the connect battery with key in run position and got nothing, i'll try again. thanks guys.

no change. what works: door chime works if the door is left open emergency flashers work door locks work seems like a main fuse must be blown or this is a security detail? car will not come out of park. the fuses i checked seemed good. nothing else works, no interior lights, radio, fan, windows, etc - none of that works, just the couple things listed above. all i did was remove alternator and battery and reinstall....started, ran, and drove fine before that. now with alt and battery installed it does this craziness.

it does have keyless and i wasn't sure if it has some kind of system for preventing a start if the battery was tampered with? owners manual didn't seem to say much about that though, seems to insinuate it won't cause issues, but i thought i saw mention of it on the board before? there's no change with jumper cables hooked up so i don't think so.

replaced the battery in a 2003 Legacy and now it doesn't start? Started fine right before that. Hooked up my truck to it with jumper cables and nothing. Lights and radio won't come on either - but the door locks work fine? Fuse?

right on, i'm not positive it's double but that was what i thought. all comes down to how perfect and stock you want it to look. if you're super anal and need all the lines, trim, and angle to be perfect it might be tougher. if you're not uber-critical then I imagine it'll be breeze. if you see other double DIN's listed that fit then i'm not sure why that one isn't?

standard double din i thought. another easy and cheap option is the in dash 6 disc changers with tape cassette from a WRX or other models. they are a direct bolt in and plug and play swap too, don't get much easier than that and it looks totally stock. that's what i always do and just use a cassette adapter for audio hook up to my phone (music, podcasts, etc).

sweet, thanks beast. 3" would be pushing it then? this is for a friend, just got a 2003 Legacy wagon, not sure what he wants yet but he's look for rig material of some kind.

i almost posted the first reply with a joke about how many non-replies to your request were coming. then i thought it may dissuade that which i was predicting...so there it is. looks like i can jump in the party now nipper, coal and all. :lol: i'll put your lumps in the mail when i get home. i'm currently traveling in our ineligible VDC

What's the maximum lift you can do without using crossmember spacers? Can you do 2"? Did a search but didn't find anything about 3rd gen.

if you really want one of these and would like to have one a very long time, seriously consider getting one from further away that doesn't have rust issues. not only will it last as long as you want it, the maintenance it needs won't turn into a debacle...like rusted bolts, sheared bolts, seized bolts, crusted bushings, etc. thing is - it is more work in some ways - but the greater the search area you're looking it's not hard to find one for a really great deal.

does not sound like transmission to me, sounds like something clutch related. what are the current symptoms - what does it do if you start it and try to drive it? is it loosing any engine oil? do you know what a bad clutch feels like - is it similar to that? a slipping clutch doesn't typically go bad that quickly - usually they start slipping and then gradually get worse if you baby it and drive cautiously, were you jamming and slamming it to make it move?

is the gas really old, might be bad gas if it's been sitting a long time? vacuum leak is a quick 1 minute test and i've seen those cause that same thing (which i described earlier i think i even used the same "feather" to describe it).

ha ha scanners are great, they're so cheap now too. the engine won't be shy in telling you if there's issues. it won't run a few degrees hotter or hint, you'll have obvious issues like leaking or overheating.

it's running better now then - it's now starting? what made it better then exactly? that might help narrowing down the next step. vacuum leak?

thanks for posting larry, good to know. so if you try the dollar bill trick on a good running engine it won't suck it in? do you know how many miles were on that tensioner? was it noticeably leaking more than the little bit of wetness around the seal/edges? was that an old style or new style tensioner?

this is a 3AT and has quite a few vacuum related parts and a governor i think it's called. all of which give you quite a few easy fixes for trans related issues, but you'll have to wait for those more experienced with them for that. did you check fluid? sounds like the shifter mechanism might be twitchy, might want to check linkages underneath to see if everything is moving correctly.

sounds like another bad axle (happens all the time with aftermarkets). but i am confused - your original post says you have vibrations on accelerating in 2nd...3rd or something - and it wasn't side specific - now you're talking about clicking. can you clarify and try to be clear? it's really hard to diagnose and help without seeing, touching, hearing it ourselves, all the clarity you can give us will help us help you.