idosubaru

i'd just call your local auto parts place and see if they can get the boot in, sounds like you want it quick. make *sure* you're getting the right one. subaru changed brake components like crazy.

okay thanks. i think i've seen them before in the store though they don't show up online. they work for cutting? what dictates how thick you can cut - size of the torch, or the hose size? i'd like to be able to cut 1/2" steel or so if i need to.

EMPI axle failed? I had one nut that freaked me out (got a long thread on here about it) - i had previously removed/installed it for a friend who's wheel bearing failed. Had to replace the axle a few months later and the nut wouldn't budge with my 900 ft-lb 3/4" air gun and bent the socket of my 3/4" wrench with a pipe over the handle. it was nuts. not sure how that happened, but i didn't overtighten it. i'm sure that almost never happens and you'll be fine though. 3/16". the really long ones are helpful, but not necessary.

front diff is part of the trans i'm sure you know so a simple diff swap isn't really an option....i mean you can swap front diffs but that's a rather huge job that no one has ever really done just to change gearing. simpler to just swap a trans you want. it'll take a hit but not sure what would bother you, if it at all. you looking for offroad or onroad performance? around town driving, racing, or interstate driving? my buddy lifted his 97 EJ22 MT legacy with OBW struts and put larger wheels & tires and i believe he said he now has to down shift to 4th some for climbing mountains on the interstate that he never had to do before all that. so it looses a little - but that's at highway speeds too with greater aspect ratio due to the lift.

once the wheel is off you remove one bolt, loosen another, remove the axle nut and knock the pin out, it's really easy. kind of tight snaking it out but no big deal either. the tricks are: mark the head of the top bolt the inner joint only installs one way - note the splines before install so you got it right. it'll slide on any way but the pin will only go back in with it installed one way. that 32 mm axle nut can be INSANE to remove. i've broken 2 sockets and one breaker bar on axle nuts (but i've done a ton fo them too). i got a 3/4" set jsut because of axle nuts.

i'm going to go with propane instead of acetylene. i won't need a cart, just use my grill a guy locally has a victor torch set up with everything but bottles, including cart for only $175. said it's only been used once and is 5 years old. i'd just have to get propane compatible hose and a propane tip. what's up with these kits for $130: http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200381819_200381819?cm_ite=171740&cm_pla=Welding%3ECutting%2C%20Heating%20%2B%20Welding%20Torches&cm_cat=pricegrabber&cm_ven=Aggregates everything is OA - i can't find any propane set up - which just need different hose and tips.

a friend of mine said something about a tank (not sure what kind) falling, when it hit the top got knocked off and the pressure blew the tank straight through a concrete block wall. even if a little exaggerated it sounds a scary. what's up with tanks - some folks are saying you can't even buy tanks...or you can but they have to be inspected, certified, "in date" to get filled and it's better to just rent them?

great, thanks will, that makes sense. DUDE - you're in CA now and not DC any more? no kidding, i missed that or forgot?

is this more "blow up and die" than doing a/c work? lots of folks preach gloom and doom about a/c, but it's really not hard at all. just asking, because i've yet to learn any torch stuff. seems self explanatory given it is Oxygen and Acetlyene in the tanks.....(insert nuclear smiley face)

pretty sure i've seen this on newer cars too, i'm sure others will have a fresher memory though. should be able to tell if it's just the struts extending making the difference or if it's actually "leaning" the entire vehicle to the left, memory seems to suggest they 'lean' to the left sometimes.

correct. you can buy them ready to install off ebay for $5, no drilling, etc. if your mileage is bad, rear O2 doesn't affect mileage, only the front does. but so do plugs, wires, filters, etc.

roost will probably need to define "better". grip, longevity, wet traction, snow traction, summer traction, all seasons, road noise, cornering....etc. "better" means different things to different people and you can't get a tire that's better in every category.

right on JCE, or skip that step i meant to add. i figure a lot of folks....particularly someone wanting to replace a catalytic converter is going reject installing the rear spacer first.

i'm "shopping". keep in mind - i'll probably use this like a couple times a year just to cut off an exhaust or rusty bolt. a guy has a small 30CF oxygen tank, that seems too small. looks dinky, probably run out in a matter of minutes? do the gauges give any indication on fuel level still left? another guy has a craftsman torch/regulator set, looks older. junk or reasonable? good price though if it includes the tanks in the pictures. does brand matter much if i'm not going to use it often?

First - make sure there are absolutely no exhaust leaks. Next step is to replace the rear O2 sensor. Replacing the front sensor won't likely fix the code but personally I figure I'm going to put a lot more miles on the car anyway so why not replace the front. Final step is to install a $5 spacer on the rear sensor. Replacing the catalytic converter is pointless.

yep, classic alternator issues. check battery, alt connections, and battery connections to be sure but this is typical alt failure. replace sooner rather than late as a dying alt or poor electrical system can prematurely wear the battery too.

the lower profiles perform a little better, but i doubt you'll notice a huge difference. they'll wear a little better too if you drive fast and corner hard, they'll resist the rolling a little better. i'd focus more on brand, model, quality - materials and manufacturing have improved more than just the size and side wall ratio. if handling is bad and you're worried about that, then you might want to consider upgrading sway bars.

year is not a good way to talk about EJ engines because they didn't change Phases at the same time across models. 1996-1998 is Phase I EJ25 (as well as 99 Legacy and Impreza) 1999 Forester and Impreza RS and 2000+ everything else is Phase II EJ25 The Phase II's are better motors IMO and seem to have fewer issues. I say "seem" because while I see Phase I's far more frequently locked up or thrown rods, they are also older and more likely to be on the market, sold as is, not worth the fix etc verses newer stuff - so i'm assuming some things, but that does seem like a legitimate trends.

i've done tons of AT stuff, it's actually really easy to drain partial fluid out the bottom. just hold the drain plug while unthreading, it actually doesn't come out that fast at all, easy to control....even when it was 30 degrees and i was doing this all outside. DANG DAVE - i have a freaking fluid exchanger like you said, i didn't even think to use that. CRACK HEAD. thanks!

i had one this past summer that would not come out. torch, soaking, etc did nothing. guy i know that owns a shop took it and i'm not sure how he did it but he used heat, he just said "i used the heat wrench on that thing".

what he said about edmunds. might want to spend some time on autotrader or other online sites. in your case buying from a private seller will time and again give you the best deal and a far better car. dealers often know nothing about cars. what has a higher percentage of being a well maintained no issue vehicle? 1. a dealer trade in or used car they bought at auction (for pennies on the dollar i might add - i've been to dealer only auctions) 2. a one owner vehicle private seller with all the service records. give option two a chance. there are independent companies that will go to the car and inspect it thoroughly. for what you're looking for it's really easy to find a great deal on a well maintained one owner car with great confidence.

i was a bit low on fluid, got a rear output shaft seal drip. anyway - it was below the lower line and i figured line-to-line was a quart like with engine oil. one quart filled it WAY over the top. anyone know what it is between the marks, is there a standard like with engine oil?

either will fit. mike and phil at subaruxt.com had an EJ25 in their RX, the size difference isn't all that substantial, but you don't have much room to play with either in an EA. EJ25's throw plenty of block bearings too so i'd make sure it's a known great block if you go that route. if an EJ22 sounds good, have delta cams make you a set of cams for extra grunt or torque. either is going to feel awesome in lieu of the EAxx.

last post i saw they wanted $300 for something, which will price many folks out that would buy it.

great motors. yes you could expect a relatively low maintenance 100,000 more miles out of it. you'd want to replace the serpentine belt pulleys (two of them) immediately when you get it. they are very common failure items and will fail i'd bet money on it. luckily they are REALLY easy, so if you have a good mechanic they're cheap. bearings pop right out and new ones tap right back in - i got mine for like $4 and it takes about 20 minutes each, really easy. probably end up needing O2 sensors or TPS, or something like that, those are two issues you see sometimes. i'd expect like one or two things like that, which will give signs or a check engine light and you replace them, not that big of a deal and very simple jobs. that's a horrible price and mileage. i've been looking with a friend of mine for about the same thing and i own one. i'd have to try pretty hard to spend that much on one with that kind of mileage.