idosubaru

that urethane stuff is a bear to cut through, i'll never do that again unless i absolutely have to. i'd personally leave this one to the professionals. i broke door glass (in an impreza OBS even!) and it was really cheap to have a glass shop install it. granted, that's not the same but i'd still call and get a price. sounds like you've exhausted all options on repair of the existing one? does the grid get power? those impreza hatches are notorious for lines cutting in the top where they go through the rubber boot from the hatch to the body.

if you look above in the ligth blue-ish lettering you'll see the subaruforester.org site link just a couple inches above on this same page. That and the outback forums usually have threads dedicated to folks discussing the most recent pricing, etc. Dealers make a lot on used cars, so there's more fat in those, but they aren't necessarily eager to come down because of it. If it's a steady demand Subaru area expect less flex.

Make sure it's not headgaskets before you pull it as they've already hinted at. Unlike the EJ25D, this Phase II EJ25 will leak externally and that area is the most likely. And yes they leak oil externally, that will be the only symptom. Remember these are different than EJ25D's if yo'ure familiar with those. You are correct - the separator plate is on the Passengers side just like the EJ25D. Bare minimum - definitely adjust the valves while it's out if you didn't before. Really easy, all you need are gauges and a 10mm wrench and a few minutes. 8 bolts in the bellhousing instead of 4. Remember to get them all out first, the trans bellhousing will crack off if you don't before you try to separate them. I was going to suggest replacing the headgasket while it's out. It's only $70 for the gaskets and these SOHC are easy as pie compared to the EJ25D's once the engine is out. Remove the valve cover, remove head (easy), clean up, then bolt it back on with new gaskets. None of the cam junk to mess with like the EJ25D's.

He should add the conditioner. Subaru requires it. If it's required I'm sure your car has it, but you could call the dealer and ask. Blue coolant sounds awesome.

it wouldn't need regulated or have to be "required". first attempt could just go on the honor system and see how it goes, i'd do it. if it flops then scrap it. set up a one or two week time frame for folks to do it - a trial. i see your point though, it sounds like a pain on some levels.

you can drive with broken boots for a LONG time, a couple days is pointless to worry about. If you're worried about it just stuff some extra grease up into the joint by hand, it works. More will sling out though but it will protect the joint. Subaru axles are extremely robust - i've put 50,000+ miles on broken boot front axles (that were clicking for much of it too) and 100,000+ miles on rear axles with broken boots. I used to live in MD (no yearly inspections) and I never bothered replacing an axle/boots unless I had to get in there for something else like brakes. Sand and really gritty winter snow treatments will ruin them quickly if it gets in the joints though. But most daily drivers aren't seeing that. I've rebooted axles that were making noise and they quieted right up too. My current daily driver has a set of rebooted axles that were making noise, but not after rebooting. What you want to avoid at all cost is aftermarket axles, they are junk. I (and many others on the boards) have had all sorts of issue.

car runs fine? how exactly are you diagnosing gas in oil so quickly and easily? i have funny pictures in my head, do tell! injectors can leak or operate incorrectly and dump too much fuel into the cylinder. I would suppose it can get into the oil from there past rings or valve stem seals. Washing of the cylinder walls is really bad so you'd want to check into that sooner than later if it's possibly happening.

Wow, crack so you're talking about going from $1,000/year to $5,000/year? That's huge. And this is a sustained need (monthly), not a one time need (strictly migration related)? Equally huge. Are the top reasons for the move safety and better visibility/traffic? And increased safety necessitates the move to better software? How about a group like "The Subaru Seventy" - a group of folks committed to keeping this place floating. If 70 folks gave four dollars a month that's almost $3,500 a year. I would join that group. Give them some special perks, their own forum, stickers, Subaru themed banana's, a yearly drawing for some Subaru bucks or something....etc. :lol: I'd contribute more but I don't know the needs (getting clearer) or how it's spent. A breakdown similar to what you've already started would make sense to me. Can you register as a non-profit so I can tax deduct it? :lol:

are those STI 3.9's probably a higher torque value or something than the older EA82's? probably hard to get and higher priced? is that all STi LSD's or just certain years? perfect option for manual trans XT6's if they can fit.

Copy. Pardon the confusion then, I should have said GD's comment and others were about 80's era EA/ER clutch type, of which the 3.9 is a unicorn.

GD, and others, were talking about clutch type LSD's - not VLSD's which is what I think the STI probably has right?

Initial thoughts: Lots of features for donors only. Few features/benefits for non supporters. Tiered features - more for larger amounts...not sure if it's already like that or not? Pay for "for sale listings" - have a few freebies but then pay above a certain amount of listings (probably complicated logistics/software?). If reducing features isn't ideal then maybe grandfather certain folks in (based on join date or something). Or have those new rules apply only to new members. Fund raising: Raffle Subaru bucks. Offer 500 $1 chances for $100 Subaru bucks.....or something like that. or 100/200 for $50 Subaru bucks...multiple times? Winner is selected by the last 2 or 3 digits of the stock market close on a predetermined date. I don't do lottery but I'd do that. It may even be possible to get a few Subaru bucks donated with the right contacts and persuasion. The online vendors get great free advertising here. Raffle a Subaru. This would be tough but a "Community Soob Sale" - dedicate a week where folks can list in the for sale section and encourage a percent of sales go to USMB (not sure how/if it's enforceable). Then spread the word through all other Subaru forums to drive people here. I'll make one of those Ebay listings with links just to drive people here Folks here could conceivably offer to spread the word via craigslists across the country, I'd take care of MD and WV for you - group effort. Other forums might not - but I would put up a sticky on subaruxt.com for that. Sounds like a fun trend to start! Sellers would have higher traffic, more sales, and a percent goes here..hopefully? I have tons of parts I might list if I knew there would be more traffic in a given week. Love the fact that you're trying to avoid ad's Shawn.

yes! please post your results and how you like the drive. what was your impetus for a front LSD b? offroad, rally X, daily driving, fun?

right i agree, the mileage isn't the point. it's the high price and mileage, the high price and been in an accident. the high miles, high price, and headgasket prone motor. that's top dollar for something not worth it to me or the majority of the market. one look at autotrader and it should be pretty obvious that this is a terrible deal. i just looked at 4 2002-2004 Subaru's for a friend of mine today. These are high dollar 02-04 H6 LLBean OBW's - with only 100,000 miles we found 4 around $7,500 in perfect condition. $6,000 for a far less valuable vehicle, smaller motor, twice the miles, a worse motor, been in an accident, multiple owners....it's just a terrible deal.

+1 to draining the fluid. take a large old blanket or something stout to throw over the bumper as the trans will likely touch it or you'll rest it against the vehicle. if you're getting the trans from a yard they typically have fork lifts or help there.

That's a terrible deal. $5,000 might make it more palatable. With an accident and high miles I'd want a better deal than that. This car is prone to headgasket issues - 2000-2002's have an extended 100,000 mile headgasket warranty campaign by Subaru...not a big deal but with that mileage?? To inspect the head gaskets you want to check the rear of the engine where the head meets the engine - they leak externally there usually. Very common. Is this at a dealer or private seller? I prefer private sellers on newer cars like this if I can find one. Not hard to find a good, honest seller on newer vehicles, and who's more likely to sell a car themselves - someone with a great car or one with issues? Have you tried autotrader or craigslist? Check the prices there - ignoring the first few that are always really high and insanely priced. Remember your mileage and an accident when comparing. Have you compared the price to tools like that? I have a 2003 Legacy GT wagon, it's the dark blue even, that will be for sale really soon for $5,900. 85,000 miles, new timing belt, runs and drives great, I'm replacing the hood, light, and fender from a kid hitting the car in front of him.

this is for REAR DIFFS - just to clarify so it doesn't get confusing since it's not what the title says. yes, all EA82/ER27 - "80's era" Subaru's are 3.7 or 3.9. well i have no idea what justy's are but they hardly count. for the clutch type under $250 is a good deal. i've sold a few for $250 and they sell for more than that, $300-ish on ebay. there's a few a year on ebay, though you won't typically "always" find one for sale, but they pop up with some frequency and aren't that rare to see either. i saw one 3.9 on ebay like 10 years ago, that's the only one i've ever "seen". you can still buy them new for like $900 (that was 5 years ago).

i've seen Fel-Pro seals not fit well. (but i've also used dozens of Fel-Pro seals that were just fine). Mr. Radon and others have had similar issues too. The ones I've seen were noticeable during install. So if it was off and not seating well, seems like they would notice. But I guess if they can be off by a lot they can be off by a little too? Or it could have been a good seal, just didn't seat well or was dirty and got pushed out. At least you found it and fixed it, done deal hopefully. So it did make it to graduation, excellent!

a new fuel pump failed? wonder if new pumps are low grade compared to subaru originals? subaru pumps don't fail very often, i might be tempted to replaced with a used one if i ever have one fail.

trans will definitely fit in the back of a taurus. i've had a ton of subaru trans in the back of subaru's and my in-laws have a few taurus' - those trunks are huge in comparison to Subarus. trans mounts sometimes get in the way and make angling awkward, but no big deal.

I think GD talked me out of the idea! I've pulled motors apart but that sounds miserable. When I checked a few years ago I couldn't find enough information on reliability to bite the bullet on one, I think I even posted on here about it. I'd want one that's going to last 100,000 miles at least. Would this OBX helical be any good for daily driving and snow covered roads or probably not? Given the number of switch backs i have to drive every day from my house the snapping back doesn't sound too good. If I paid a transmission shop to install it - is the R&P set up something they'd be familiar with (common to trans rebuilds/diff set ups) or is that something you wouldn't trust to anyone?

brakes. any rust on the brake components? wheel bearing.

aftermarket axles are notorious for going bad, being bad, and having all sorts of issues. i'd suspect your "new" axle is bad and wouldn't be surprised if the next one was bad too. the only way to avoid this and have %100 success rate with axles is to get a subaru axle and reboot it (the cheapest solution usually) or get an axle from MWE - he knows how to properly rebuild them. $75-$100 and shipping back and forth to Colorado to deal with. your tie rods are bad? that's really strange, Subaru tie rods don't fail very often at all. almost never for average daily driven cars that don't see any abuse (offroad, etc).

Over the years I've asked two Subaru dealers and both said they don't resurface EJ heads. I re-asked the local dealer yesterday when I went in again and they said the same thing again. Given my recent debacle with a machine shop and lack of resources like that around here, I will probably start leaning towards skipping resurfacing ...unless I find somewhere else that can do it.

i would definitely replace the headgaskets, they're actually not that hard once the engine is out.