idosubaru

i'd like to know that subaru headgaskets were used. replaced the head bolts? you never replace head bolts in subarus unless you don't know what you're doing. hopefully that's not indicative of his approach to the rest of the job. rust is huge for me, no rust = good deal. rust = bad deal. i don't want simple jobs to turn into 6 hour part replacing nightmares. no start after having the engine apart could be anything but i'd assume it's something simple like a wire not reconnected (ground wire, starter wire, alt, etc), timing, or vacuum hose.

great thanks, they were identical as far as number and counting teeth between them.

Seems like I should verify fuel then. Since the other side is fine then that should rule out the supply side all the way up to the motor. So - what possible fuel issues are there: Injectors. Fuel pressure regulator? Is there one per side or one for the entire engine? Anything else fuel related?

thanks. ironic since i swapped that part! i had my hands on it, removed, and put another one on without knowing it.

craigslist as well or local classifieds, bulletin board kind of places. folks sell wrecked cars cheap sometimes if you can handle that. not hard to get a wreck for $300-$500. i'd also recommend replacing the engine unless there's a compelling reason. the EJ22 by nature should and will outlast the rest of the vehicle if well maintained. so replacement is usually only necessary for catastrophic issues. a used engine should ideally be resealed - i wouldn't trust or expect 15+ year old seals, hoses, and belts to be reliable for extended periods of times. all that to say - consider a thorough reseal on an EJ22 if that's still an option.

yeah the clocks come out really easy, takes a minute, that's it, nothing to it. mdjc is the one selling refurbished clocks in the for sale section.

i don't know what you mean. i lined up the marks you'd line up to install a new timing belt, the three dashes on the crank and cam sprockets. i lined those up and they're dead on.

cleaning them up sounds like a great idea. you can also gently bend them out of the way, you only need a 1/4" or so. you have to be careful though as bending the top sort of tends to bend the bottom/sides, warp it some - so gbend gently you only need a small amount. if it's really bad it's only a matter of time before it starts falling apart, has holes, etc. went to the dealer a week or so ago and they had some backing plates on the counter, no doubt for the same reason. it is a good idea but i wouldn't disassemble, if the rust is bad yo'ure going to have stubborn bolts, some will likely shear off, etc. i'd just leave them at this point if the rust is bad.

if you specify year, type (phase I or phase II) i can help. basically you can use any NA EJ block in any EJ vehicle. from there you decide what to bolt on to it based on what you're trying to do.

Are DOHC EJ25 and Phase II SOHC EJ25 crank sprockets the same? I counted the reluctors (tabs) and it seems like they're the same. I had two engines apart and could have accidentally mixed up which one is which.

Where is the igniter (ignitor to help future misspelled searches) location of Phase II SOHC EJ25's? The 2000 Forester and 2003 Legacy I have do not have it in the same location above the pitch stopper, behind throttle body like the typical 90's EJ's. How do igniters fail? Is it black/white, on/off, yes/no, or can they be "weak, fuzzy, etc"?

greenstang - did you ever resolve this issue and if so - how? i'm having a similar issue and curious what happened?

Update: both cylinders misfiring on drivers side. Car runs and drives okay with lack of power - 75% maybe and stalls when decelerating from a high RPM. Spark: good (visual test and swapped coil and wires, no change) Compression: perfect 175+ Valves adjusted and cam sprockets on the correct sides. Timing belt perfect, no movement when running (tensioner good), verified Subaru part number. Strong fuel smell when spark is disconnected (and i have terrible sense of smell) Runs noticeably worse when the cylinder misfire spark plugs are disconnected, so those cylinders are doing something. Question: *Can fueling issues cause cylinder misfires - i guess i need to test fuel somehow? If it has good compression, timing, and spark what would cause cylinder misfires? I don't want to replace the head only to find out it was something else.

the shopping list was the parts you would need to replace the cam carrier. the cam carrier has a metal insert that's used for threading the valve cover bolts into. if any of the insert is still left - you could get a longer bolt to reach the deeper threads. the inserts and threads are deeper than the original bolt so often times a longer bolt will grab lower threads. this still leaves you in a debacle since those valve cover bolts are funny shaped, so you'd have to get creative if you choose this option. personally for the 100% success route i'd drill it out and helicoil it. which one is it - bottom with terrible access or top with lots of access? or you could just remove it from the car and do it since you'd have to do that anyway to replace it. i usually opt for tools over parts in situations like this as the tool is usable into the future, the part is not. future repairs will be "free". you can get right angle drill attachments, that's what i have (they're really cheap and allow you to drill at a 90 degree angle) or even rent/borrow right angle drills. then shear/snap your drill bits in half to shorten their length. if you've never done it - helicoils are really simple and on a benign part like this there's hardly any chance of error. drill a hole, tap, insert helicoil, and you're done. you can unbolt the two lower engine mount nuts (14mm), and the pitch rod up top behind the throttle body and then jack the engine up a few inches for more room to work with. good luck, these are always annoying but you'll get it done.

why were you replacing the thermogasket?

ram performance. they have standard and light weight varieties if memory serves me right. if they're not listed on their website, just call or email.

here's a guy that just had JB weld not hold for more than a couple days: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?p=1012778#post1012778 it's a really low percentage solution on engine blocks in my experience personally (0%) and watching others try it and not work. the larger point though is there are many other ways to fix this that would be 100% successful, that's the bottom line to me. but i hate doing something twice.

like i said, JB weld is not a good fix for something like this. if it's bone dry i'd try to fix it. if it's leaking anyway then maybe replacing it is a good idea. you'll need: 1. cam seal 2. cam cap oring 3. cam carrier oring (available from subaru or thepartsbin.com only) 4. anaerobic sealant (or your favorite substitute). you just need a cam carrier? i've got cam carriers, valve covers, etc. but you can probably fix it, just post up a picture. many times there's a rather simple fix. if you can post a picture and follow directions we might be able to help you. swapping cam carriers is kind of annoying, the rockers all fall out and have to be greased to stay in place as you snake the cam carrier back in place without knocing the hanging rocker arms off. not bad really, but not something i look forward to either.

are those the original wheels, i'd guess no way in a million years, they look really terrible but who knows.

definitely CV axles. when they start failing like this they create more noises/vibration when under load, everything you sound is exactly as i've experienced before. not only that, but if you pack a bunch of grease in there all of your vibrations could go away. i would try that, if a good thorough greasing helps the vibrations i'd even consider rebooting these axles (though probably no one else would) but here's my reason why. i drove my lifted XT6 2,000 miles (3,200 km one way) to colorado. both front boots busted on the way there (they sat outside in another car for awhile so the new boots were dry). anyway, i was elk hunting so we wheeled this thing up miles of mountain nasty trails to camp. so - 3,000-4,000 miles and offroading mountain trails later...i had to nurse the axles back and stuff grease in at every gas station stop just about. noise/vibration (mostly vibration) would go away immediately...but started back up quickly too because at highway speeds the grease flings out quick. i had a ton of extra XT6 boots around so i figure why not give it a try so i rebooted those axles a year and a half ago when i got back and they're still running just fine, no noises or vibrations, smooth as silk.

since the engine is out, if you have any competent machine shops they'll fix this properly for $30-$70 depending on rates where you live. this is chump change for them, done that before as well. i suggested one of our down under members to do the same thing earlier this year and $35 later he was done. is the remainder of the bolt out? if not, what i did (with water pump bolts before too), is to drill the hole that you "slipped" off into big enough to tap the remainder of the bolt into it and finally fall out. then you can repair it properly. once the bolt is out, unless you mangled all the way around the hole then a helicoil should take on it's own. you probably only mangled it to one side hopefully? you could still helicoil to a larger sized bolt. the larger sized bolt helicoil will be much larger if it's a hole you can drill out on the water pump housing. also - once you get the bolt out, you could test and see how much thread is left in the original hole. the holes are not the same depth as the bolts -they are longer - so sometimes part of a fix is using a longer bolt to access those never used threads. another option would be to drill an enormous hole and tap it - like a 12/1.25, but really short. shear/cut/tap a bolt to fit into it, cut a slot into it with a hacksaw or die grinder so you can use a flat head screw driver to install it. it's almost like you're "filling" it with an insert instead of welding it in. use lock-tite and screw it in, then drill and tap inside the bolt shaft you just screwed in. i would not rely on JB weld at all, but it's not going to hurt (or help) if the rest of the repair is done well. there's a few options to do it and do it once. good luck.

highly recommend doing a bunch of reading and research. the project you describe is theoretically amazing but practically impossible. for the auto trans, that would be really simple. the driveshaft is two pieces so you can remove the rear portion and just leave the front portion in place to plug the trans. once this thing is running then you can entertain fabricating a plug if you want. car will run fine as FWD. electric conversions typically increase weight of the vehicle even with the engine removed - taking on all the extra heavier load of the electrical driven mechanisms while retained the engine and fat transmission. weight will derail power consumption, efficiency, and it'll kill your range, etc. but again - research it and verify the weight to range ratios, etc. you'll be doing tons of work, costs, for little gain.

Looks like typically come in 4 and 10 ton varieties. I'm usually fixing wrecked cars - straightening the front ends, etc, nothing major like frames, etc. The 10 ton sounds like the way to go - but are those two big and bulky for using in tight places up front like the fender, radiator supports, etc?

You should post in the appropriate forum - like New Generation forum. Shop talk is for tools, etc and doesn't get much traffic. A mod might move it for you to the approrpriate forum. what is wrong with yours? Subaru warranties seat belts for like forever...guys with mid-90's subarus are still getting belts replaced for free by subaru. get a used one, i rebuilt my H6 with the fancy rocket ship explosive, one time use seat belts that needed replaced. i dont' remember how much they were but it wasn't that expensive. probably why the car was totalled and i got to buy it cheap. call yards and check ebay. there's one on ebay for $12 but it's the wrong side. car-parts.com has a zillion for $25 and $30. these guys have one for $60 in Kansas City, MO 1-800-448-4198 there are places that do it for $69 on ebay, rebuild yours for you, so it can't be that hard.

wow, that sounds strange on all sorts of levels. if you bought a PCV valve from the auto parts store, i would assume that one is right, i've never seen a "wrong" PCV for a Subaru. check the part numbers online like at rockauto.com or thepartsbin.com or some other online place or just type in your brand and part number...etc - you'll figure it out pretty quick. Subaru didn't change PCV valves for a long time...like decades the 80's, 90's, and even some 2000's all used the same one. the H6 uses a PCV that has a really small nipple and hose on it, all the others are a larger size from what i've seen. don't know jack about turbo models, but that could confuse people too?