idosubaru

it's a guy in Denver that rebuilds subaru axles. Marshall is his name. you have to deal with shipping and shipping your cores back. so while he's not expensive ($75), the cost goes up quick with shipping. it's worth it though to have that kind of quality and save yourself the time. subaru axles cost me $33 each, i just get them and reboot them too sometimes for easy EJ stuff.

it's the latest year, and the only year that has (some, not all) dual ports AND egr. earlier doesn't have EGR, later doesn't have dual ports. subaru's opposed forces site is showing dual ports for earlier years too: http://opposedforces.com/parts/legacy/us_b11/type_7/exhaust_system/exhaust/ i've seen tons of mixed info on the 90-94 EJ22's, some say single, some say dual, i've always been confused myself about why it's such a mixed bag of info. i just did a quick google search and it was confusing. they're so rusted by now it doesn't much matter around here, i never see them.

great, thanks. what year GT and do you know if that hitch was for a sedan or wagon, etc? looks like this one originally came off a wagon. this one seems extra weird with that angled bracket, i can't picture what that would ever bolt too.

it's not autozone - the axle market is terrible no matter where you buy from. reboot a subaru axle or go with MWE. those are the two 100% options.

unless i'm missing something the dual port 2.2 is the 95 version that you've bought like 100 of dave!!! :lol:

crack, that sucks. while they are pretty poor motors on a lot of levels - EA82's can be reliable high mileage engines though completely gutless, *if* you get them up to date on hoses, gaskets, maintenance etc. that's just really hard to do on 20 year old worthless motors. many have been abused and few folks want to put the money/time into the gaskets, seals, etc to keep them from overheating/running out of oil. the vehicles EA82's come in are completely worthless around my parts (not quite the case where you live), but that means peopel don't care to put a dime more of maintenance into them than they have too either.

i would assume it's a replacement engine. i've never seen or heard of anything past 97 (96 actually) EJ22's having dual port heads. if you suspect it's been replaced - then definitely make sure it's not an EJ18 block. the EJ18 block interchanges directly with the EJ22 AND they all have dual port heads. i did that exact swap into my daily driver legacy - an EJ18 long block.

run open belts. it's awesome.\covers themselves can be risky, they can get pushed into belts and hoses...it's just such a minor risk that it's benign. i saw a loose timing cover pushed into a trans hose and cause it to leak...so i've seen more failures due to running with timing covers than without. i wouldn't suggest it's "riskier" to run with covers, but just relaying how insignificant this is. it's not rocket science. replace your PCV valve - it can reduce crankcase pressures (Positive Crankcase Ventilation valve) and maybe (if you're one lucky dude! ) slow the oil leak. it's a couple dollars and easy to replace. "manual trans block....bolt...red fluid"...i'm confused. manual transmission shouldn't have ATF which is red, so you're running aftermarket fluid or it's not a manual trans, i don't know. and what do you mean by "block" - you typically don't tigthen block bolts...if you mean the engine block, which you don't since you're talking about transmission stuff. low oil shouldn't leak more. one scenario i could imagine, that seems unlikely: it's low...therefore it's cycling more often...therefore the oil is getting hotter....thinner....maybe it is leaking more. i have seen EA/ER series external headgasket leaks. it is rare and unlikely but i've seen it before, ironically on the rear side of the heads like the newer EJ's do.

that's a new one on me, i have no idea. that was brilliant to notice the rear wheels first. did you completely remove it or just back it off a little then back on? you feel confident you got all the bits back in the right places? those couple of little arms/springs or whatever that fall out are kind of annoying when they just drop out. don't sweat it, auto's are actually as reliable or arguably less maintenance than manuals now. manuals have torque bind and input shaft bearing issues and require being pulled for new clutches....and auto's are lasting far longer than their predecessors a couple decades ago. i like both, but auto's can be advantageous these days. torque bind is often "caused" by improper tire maintenance, towing, or fluid changes.

you mean those little tiny metal reinforced doo-dads right (and not the cam cap orings)? subaru usually has them in stock usually, order them online, or thepartsbin.com is one aftermarket source of them. subaru intake gaskets are better than most aftermarkets i've seen, i'd go subaru on those since they are known to leak from the water jacket into the intake runners. that's definitely a good idea to replace them i they're generic orings, regular orings will not hold - i've seen it tried before. i'm out of town for a week and a half at the moment but if you haven't ordered by then i can check what i have, i have some spare EA82 fel pro headgaskets i'd part with for a bit less than the stores. i was hoping you'd try it - i have a set of headgaskets that were installed, never run, and then disassembled... actually i think some headgasket styles would hold up better than others - an EA82 would certainly fair better than turbo or the newer EJ motors with the multi layered metal stuff. those old school gaskets are fairly archaic technologically speaking, so maybe they stand a much better chance. i asked this question 10 years ago for an ER engine (XT6 - same pistons, valves, HLA's, and more as an EA82) and everyone told me not to do it.

there you go, that one is the one i'm thinking of, i thought it was probably intended for turbo's.

reusing headgaskets is probably a low percentage option or not likely to make high mileages....but how many EA82's are really going to see high mileage beyond today anyway? i could envision a time in my life when i would have tried it. you gotta do what you gotta do some times. for how cheap they are and how large of a job it is, i wouldn't do it. i can buy a car with blown headgaskest, flip it and make a ton of money....so trying to save $50 or the possibility of doing two headgasket jobs on one car doesn't make any sense to me.

+1. you can find other similar threads where folks (GD comes to mind from last year), that detail how difficult these things are to bleed. GD found a precise method for bleeding...i just can't recall if that was for the slave or MC, but i would find his thread wrestling with this same issue. search for this and search for GD as an author.

sounds definitely engine relaced? (and not drivetrain, trans, axle?) if it is the engine - can you tell if it's drivers or passengers side?

yep, this is how it goes with aftermarket axles. glad you got it figured out. how did you determine which side? you could tell kind of which side it was?

you probably just need to install a bolt in the hole. it's right at the corner/edge of the head right? i think i know which one you're talking about. if i was home i'd walk out to my garage and check but from memory there are holes that are plugged with a bolt on top of the heads. maybe it was removed and just needs reinstalled? if it's a threaded hole then plug it up with a bolt. can you post a picture of it?

since you asked in the title, i would consider leaving it alone. sometimes i put a lot of effort into something only to later on realize how pointless it was, this seems like it could be one of those things.

clicking HLA's rarely end up failing like that. that's just weird, i've never seen that happen before....never heard of it happening either. my guess is that your HLA failed...and caused the clicking. i doubt the clicking caused the HLA. anyway - yeah the drivers side does suck. mizpah engineering rebuilds them or sells you newly rebuilt ones for $3-$7 each, might be worth replacing/rebuilding them all for such a low cost like that. good luck

i thought this was because hitch manufacturers make the "under exhaust" style because it'll more easily fit a wider range of models. the tighter they try to make them, the less models and variations they'll fit. this thing supposedly came off a legacy but that one offset bolt hole makes no sense at all. . the side holes are pretty darn close (if not a perfect fit) for the rear tow hooks though....so who knows. maybe i can get ahold of subaru360 and see if he recalls what it came off of.

You should be able to post in any forum. Try again. If you get the "database" message, that's a current issue with the server or software, not any kind of denial. good job cranking out the work on it already. trans code - duty C solenoid or?? Duty C solenoid is accessible through the rear extension housing without dropping the trans. the other duty solenoids are accessible through the trans pan. someone posted some details on that recently, within the past few months/year?

more than likely you're missing a bolt, that's a good assumption to make. some light taps in the right spot should get it to come off, i don't recall any every being that difficult to remove.

on that auction, guess you're going by part number? i clicked on the link and it says nothing about Subaru, model, or engine. guess if the part number is right i'd give that number a call and ask. no wonder it's so cheap - the listing is terrible so when demand is zero - supply/demand curve kicks in to your favor.

oh man, a simple question goes the way of debate...here it comes! parts are independently balanced and this is hardly a concern. folks shave flywheels, use different crank pulleys, one piece, aluminum, use varying tensions on the belts, pistons get carbon build up (effectively changing momentum, etc) etc. i've seen folks weld a failed crank pulley together when it separate from the inner rubber ring....obviously WAY off balance... they're not as sensitive as one could make it sound semantically. this isn't rocket science. if they were that sensitive then engines would be blowing up in the northeast due to the change in balance due to rusting of the pulley!! i have an aluminum one piece pulley on mine and plan on keeping it until 300,000 miles, i'm sure the pulley isn't going to stop me.

i'll ship you one for $25. PM or email me. Quick if you want it shipped by tomorrow as i'm leaving soon.

online dealers are roughly 20% cheaper than local, so that will bring it down to about $60 for OEM. i haven't noticed a huge difference in valve cover gaskets, but other seals/gaskets are higher quality from Subaru often times. valve cover gaskets are easy enough to replace and i haven't seen enough difference yet to sway me positively towards subaru.