idosubaru

they need to both have EGR. the Ej25 will have EGR, the EJ22 may not, the auto's almost always are but i have seen (and still have the motor in my garage), automatic EJ22 OBS's without EGR. you'll need the exhaust manifold. the EJ25 is dual port, the EJ22 is single port. but get the manifold and it bolts right in place, easy as pie. bellhousing bolt pattern changed from 4 bolts to 8 bolts somewhere around 1998. that doesn't matter though either, just use the 4 bolt holes available and leave the others empty if that's the case. it only has 4 bolts holding them together now and those 4 line up with 4 of the 8 in the newer stuff. keep the legacy engine on hand to swap over whatever power steering brackets, a/c brackets from the EJ25 onto the Ej22 you need for everything to bolt up clean. it's really easy - everything swaps right over.

use one of the online subaru vendors if you're requiring subaru parts, they'll have all the right part numbers. shipping varies too much to say "this one is the best". if you're open to non-OEM pulleys, most of us use theimportexperts like dave suggested. some folks get those kits for the reasonably priced pulleys but still install a Subaru belt instead of the aftermarket. i'm about 50/50, just depends how i'm feeling but i defintely don't spend $350 for new pulleys from subaru. there are two different tensioner pulleys, maybe you remember what style yours was from doing the water pump as they changed right around 1997. yours should be the newer style is my guess, like in this picture: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DAYCO-84105-Timing-Belt-Kits-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQfitsZMakeQ3aSubaruQQhashZitem2a0f4f1009QQitemZ180645466121QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories that newer style tensioner is more likely to fail than the old style. the old styles fail so infrequently i don't even replace the tensioner, just the pulley. on the new style, replace the entire tensioner assembly. since you're doing the work yourself it's not a bad idea to consider just going back in at 50,000 miles and inspecting everything. at 15+ years old and a 105,000 mile change interval with a lot of miles it's not a bad idea if it's free labor. harmonic balancers don't typically whine? i'd also replace that with a used one, there's more likely items to fail than that and it's easy to replace.

there's a Subaru alternator that you can buy for like $70 or so new from Subaru. that's the discounted online price so you have to order it or have a dealer that price matches the online Subaru dealers. It's like a 1996 - 1998 Legacy or OBW and due to a recall. Might be remanned but I'd expect good quality from Subaru. i have a good used one i'll send you for $35

interesting, nice diagram. that's possible after only 20,000 km?

i started asking about axles and never followed up on that, my bad. if the axles have ever been replaced then that's a good chance of being the culprit. what's the history on the axles? the only sure solution for axles in my opinion is Subaru or MWE, everything else has a risk asociated with it. if you wanted to test you could swap sides (right to left and left to right) and if the noise moves you'll know for sure it's the axle. issues during acceleration are usually with the inner joint though, but aftermarket axles are junk so nothing would surprise me - i had one blow to pieces with less than 10 miles on it. i now only use Subaru or MWE axles.

a friend of mine recently moved to LA. before he moved he would do work for people on the side. he might be too busy now, but if you want to PM me your contact info I'll let him know. subaru's are easy to work on for the a/c. the only part that typically needs to be replaced on Subaru's is the compressor. orings and schrader valves (think, like the little doohickey you add air into for your tire) as well. as a last resort just charge it yourself with those cans of system sealer stuff available at any autoparts stores. if you can add air to a tire, you can do this. for $35 (two cans) it *might* fix it, i always figure that's worth a shot. 1. buy the can(s) of R134a with system sealer at any auto parts store with a hose/gauge already attached ($16) 2. remove screw on cap on the a/c line 3. install the hose attached to the can on the valve (read directions on side of can) 4. squeeze the handle with the engine running (notice - it requires no tools!) the guys in the auto parts store will give you pointers if you need any. it might not work, but for $30 it's worth a shot, sometimes they hold. told my buddy to do this to his jeep 3 years ago and it's still holding. personally i like to replace the two orings where the air hose attaches to the compressor before charging, those are the most likely culprits for leaks. 50 cents worth of orings and that's it. it's also only 1 bolt to remove to replace each one. remove one bolt, install oring, reinstall hose - done in 1 minute. fixed a 2000 forester like this last summer, drove it yesterday and it was nice and cold. doing it to a friends 2002 OBW tomorrow. *i'll try to remember to take pictures to show you how. since yours was in an accident there's a possibility of puncture or compromised hoses/condensor as well. was any part of the front of the car involved in the accident? the a/c worked for 3 years after you got it in 2008?

interesting call on the alt's, i haven't seen that one yet. flashing check engine light means "multiple cylinder misfires". there's multiple possibilities but i would suspect ignition related components first - cylinder misfires are very common on these engines. have the spark plugs and wires ever been changed? if not then i'd consider changing them. if yes, then aftermarket wires are probably causing the issue. this engine does best with Subaru wires and NGK plugs.

timing belt tensioners can sound terrible and resemble rod knock or more sinister items. remove the drivers side belt cover and you'll be able to see it flopping around.

the link i posted in the first reply is a good resource and tells you what size 2000 rear legacy rotors should be. go to advanced auto parts (or your store or choice) online and see what it gives you.

when you say "misfire" - are you describing how it runs or are you actually getting a check engine light or codes? if you're getting codes, tell us which ones you're getting. unfortunately that engine is not very forgiving with plugs and wires. not true of all subaru engines, but much more so for yours and newer stuff in general. NGK plugs are best and Subaru wires too. i've seen the wires be problematic more often than plugs. in order of probability (in my experience): wires, plugs, coil pack, igniter, fuel injectors, valves. if the valves have never been adjusted they are definitely too tight and eventually the exhaust valves will burn (whether next year or in 5 years who knows), usually on cylinder 3 i believe.

yeah that always sucks. that happens from time to time, keep looking and it'll eventually pay off. it's a good thing you passed on that one, you did the right thing.

if more people don't respond check out the subaruoutback.org site, they have H6 dedicated forums, etc.

yes you'll need the ECU, did you try ebay yet?

no, i wasn't thinking about that at all.

oh wow that sucks. are you positive it's the tone ring that's busted? cracked the rotor, duDe, relax (sounds like something i'd do)! easiest way - weld it back in place if it's not too damaged? don't let the weld bead disturb the teeth profile. it just needs to see the pulses of the teeth, it's not that complicated of an apparatus or structural (unless you wail on it!)...it just spins fast!

sometimes i DON'T have to drill them out. i don't see any wetness in the photo 1324 but it's gotta be there somewhere. i don't reinstall the plastic sheilds/covers, they just retain moisture/debris.

drivers side timing belt broken? have you tried another distributor? you replaced the CAS in it, but what about the wheel and other bits in there, all good you think? i've had strange issues with distributors twice where swapping in another fixed a no-start. i can't recall if they had spark or not but both vehicles sat for a few months.

everything Dave just said. you need to get the part and just go do it. nothing fancy, no extra parts needed, no special tools. remove, install. it's an easy job. if you did a door lock timer, this is a piece of cake. :lol: have a drill handy or impact screwdriver if the screws are rusty.

yep, thanks dave for the engine, appreciate the help and am excited to be done with this joker.

that sucks. master cylinder is hosed or you have a leak somewhere. i've never seen a subaru master cylinder fail, replaced one with a really slow leak. i know it's possible but it's really rare.

awesome motor, i love mine. my buddy just bought one last week too. i'm a big fan of the H6 OBW's. when i was looking i read a lot about them and seemed like they had very few issues. wanted one to avoid EJ25's or another swap and found a great deal on a salvaged title i rebuilt. glad i did, i really dig the car and the H6 is a great motor. it's not the speed demon a 6 cylinder could/should be but i like the reliability of them and it's got some grunt. once that big honking cover is removed it doesn't look so bad. it's tight, but not that bad. valve covers, spark plugs are annoying, so yeah it is bad. but there's no timing belt or water pump (that the average person is going to jump into) replacement. the tensioenr and idler bearings fail all the time for the drive belt. buy the bearings for $5 and it only takes 30 minutes to replace them, they're really easy. tap right out. not good gas mileage, i mean not bad, but if you're asking you probably won't like it. around 23 usually mixed driving and 23 interstate doing 70-80 mph, sometimes can get 27 doing 50 mph or so visiting her parents where it's not 70-80mph interstate.

sounds like wheel bearing. some folks say turning it with a dowel rod or mechanics stethoscope on the strut springs helps amplify it a bit if you want to check some more.. i've seen a bunch of subaru wheel bearings fail that are perfectly tight with *zero* play in them until the entire hub is finally off the car. actually - i haven't seen one Subaru with a failed front wheel bearing that had any play at all - they were all tight as could be. once disassembled and laying in my garage now they have play. i've seen play in the rears (but that one was also the worst one i've ever seen, throwing off the ABS, etc.

best sequence in my opinion and experience: 1 reseal the oil pump. it's easy and when mated with a timing belt job is hardly any work. 2 replace the oil pump with a new one. this has cured every ticking EA82/ER27 i've come across (with one exception below). you can skip step one if you don't mind the expense to begin with. 3 replace faulty HLA's. i've come across seized HLA's that wouldn't even compress in a vice. this was obvious because they were both associated with a particular cylinder on an XT6, the others on the same side were quiet so it obviously wasn't oil supply related. and of course gunk caught in the lines wouldn't be any good. i've seen a glob of RTV get stuck at the oil port in the bottom corner of the cam carrier where that metal reinforced oring goes.

looking for leaks, i sprayed all around the manifold, so shouldn't be seal/leak/air/crack. now - the mouse nest....it did sit for awhile, i should check the intake runners, that would be funny. otherwise i guess it was the injectors, want to find out as i could use this manifold later for a spare set of heads i have.

Swapping the intake manifold fixed it. How bizarre, I had no faith that would work. I guess the fuel supply was hosed to that side? Injectors, regulator....? No idea. Totally pumped it fixed it though.