idosubaru

i started asking about axles and never followed up on that, my bad. if the axles have ever been replaced then that's a good chance of being the culprit. what's the history on the axles? the only sure solution for axles in my opinion is Subaru or MWE, everything else has a risk asociated with it. if you wanted to test you could swap sides (right to left and left to right) and if the noise moves you'll know for sure it's the axle. issues during acceleration are usually with the inner joint though, but aftermarket axles are junk so nothing would surprise me - i had one blow to pieces with less than 10 miles on it. i now only use Subaru or MWE axles.

a friend of mine recently moved to LA. before he moved he would do work for people on the side. he might be too busy now, but if you want to PM me your contact info I'll let him know. subaru's are easy to work on for the a/c. the only part that typically needs to be replaced on Subaru's is the compressor. orings and schrader valves (think, like the little doohickey you add air into for your tire) as well. as a last resort just charge it yourself with those cans of system sealer stuff available at any autoparts stores. if you can add air to a tire, you can do this. for $35 (two cans) it *might* fix it, i always figure that's worth a shot. 1. buy the can(s) of R134a with system sealer at any auto parts store with a hose/gauge already attached ($16) 2. remove screw on cap on the a/c line 3. install the hose attached to the can on the valve (read directions on side of can) 4. squeeze the handle with the engine running (notice - it requires no tools!) the guys in the auto parts store will give you pointers if you need any. it might not work, but for $30 it's worth a shot, sometimes they hold. told my buddy to do this to his jeep 3 years ago and it's still holding. personally i like to replace the two orings where the air hose attaches to the compressor before charging, those are the most likely culprits for leaks. 50 cents worth of orings and that's it. it's also only 1 bolt to remove to replace each one. remove one bolt, install oring, reinstall hose - done in 1 minute. fixed a 2000 forester like this last summer, drove it yesterday and it was nice and cold. doing it to a friends 2002 OBW tomorrow. *i'll try to remember to take pictures to show you how. since yours was in an accident there's a possibility of puncture or compromised hoses/condensor as well. was any part of the front of the car involved in the accident? the a/c worked for 3 years after you got it in 2008?

interesting call on the alt's, i haven't seen that one yet. flashing check engine light means "multiple cylinder misfires". there's multiple possibilities but i would suspect ignition related components first - cylinder misfires are very common on these engines. have the spark plugs and wires ever been changed? if not then i'd consider changing them. if yes, then aftermarket wires are probably causing the issue. this engine does best with Subaru wires and NGK plugs.

timing belt tensioners can sound terrible and resemble rod knock or more sinister items. remove the drivers side belt cover and you'll be able to see it flopping around.

the link i posted in the first reply is a good resource and tells you what size 2000 rear legacy rotors should be. go to advanced auto parts (or your store or choice) online and see what it gives you.

when you say "misfire" - are you describing how it runs or are you actually getting a check engine light or codes? if you're getting codes, tell us which ones you're getting. unfortunately that engine is not very forgiving with plugs and wires. not true of all subaru engines, but much more so for yours and newer stuff in general. NGK plugs are best and Subaru wires too. i've seen the wires be problematic more often than plugs. in order of probability (in my experience): wires, plugs, coil pack, igniter, fuel injectors, valves. if the valves have never been adjusted they are definitely too tight and eventually the exhaust valves will burn (whether next year or in 5 years who knows), usually on cylinder 3 i believe.

yeah that always sucks. that happens from time to time, keep looking and it'll eventually pay off. it's a good thing you passed on that one, you did the right thing.

if more people don't respond check out the subaruoutback.org site, they have H6 dedicated forums, etc.

yes you'll need the ECU, did you try ebay yet?

no, i wasn't thinking about that at all.

oh wow that sucks. are you positive it's the tone ring that's busted? cracked the rotor, duDe, relax (sounds like something i'd do)! easiest way - weld it back in place if it's not too damaged? don't let the weld bead disturb the teeth profile. it just needs to see the pulses of the teeth, it's not that complicated of an apparatus or structural (unless you wail on it!)...it just spins fast!

sometimes i DON'T have to drill them out. i don't see any wetness in the photo 1324 but it's gotta be there somewhere. i don't reinstall the plastic sheilds/covers, they just retain moisture/debris.

drivers side timing belt broken? have you tried another distributor? you replaced the CAS in it, but what about the wheel and other bits in there, all good you think? i've had strange issues with distributors twice where swapping in another fixed a no-start. i can't recall if they had spark or not but both vehicles sat for a few months.

everything Dave just said. you need to get the part and just go do it. nothing fancy, no extra parts needed, no special tools. remove, install. it's an easy job. if you did a door lock timer, this is a piece of cake. :lol: have a drill handy or impact screwdriver if the screws are rusty.

yep, thanks dave for the engine, appreciate the help and am excited to be done with this joker.

that sucks. master cylinder is hosed or you have a leak somewhere. i've never seen a subaru master cylinder fail, replaced one with a really slow leak. i know it's possible but it's really rare.

awesome motor, i love mine. my buddy just bought one last week too. i'm a big fan of the H6 OBW's. when i was looking i read a lot about them and seemed like they had very few issues. wanted one to avoid EJ25's or another swap and found a great deal on a salvaged title i rebuilt. glad i did, i really dig the car and the H6 is a great motor. it's not the speed demon a 6 cylinder could/should be but i like the reliability of them and it's got some grunt. once that big honking cover is removed it doesn't look so bad. it's tight, but not that bad. valve covers, spark plugs are annoying, so yeah it is bad. but there's no timing belt or water pump (that the average person is going to jump into) replacement. the tensioenr and idler bearings fail all the time for the drive belt. buy the bearings for $5 and it only takes 30 minutes to replace them, they're really easy. tap right out. not good gas mileage, i mean not bad, but if you're asking you probably won't like it. around 23 usually mixed driving and 23 interstate doing 70-80 mph, sometimes can get 27 doing 50 mph or so visiting her parents where it's not 70-80mph interstate.

sounds like wheel bearing. some folks say turning it with a dowel rod or mechanics stethoscope on the strut springs helps amplify it a bit if you want to check some more.. i've seen a bunch of subaru wheel bearings fail that are perfectly tight with *zero* play in them until the entire hub is finally off the car. actually - i haven't seen one Subaru with a failed front wheel bearing that had any play at all - they were all tight as could be. once disassembled and laying in my garage now they have play. i've seen play in the rears (but that one was also the worst one i've ever seen, throwing off the ABS, etc.

best sequence in my opinion and experience: 1 reseal the oil pump. it's easy and when mated with a timing belt job is hardly any work. 2 replace the oil pump with a new one. this has cured every ticking EA82/ER27 i've come across (with one exception below). you can skip step one if you don't mind the expense to begin with. 3 replace faulty HLA's. i've come across seized HLA's that wouldn't even compress in a vice. this was obvious because they were both associated with a particular cylinder on an XT6, the others on the same side were quiet so it obviously wasn't oil supply related. and of course gunk caught in the lines wouldn't be any good. i've seen a glob of RTV get stuck at the oil port in the bottom corner of the cam carrier where that metal reinforced oring goes.

looking for leaks, i sprayed all around the manifold, so shouldn't be seal/leak/air/crack. now - the mouse nest....it did sit for awhile, i should check the intake runners, that would be funny. otherwise i guess it was the injectors, want to find out as i could use this manifold later for a spare set of heads i have.

Swapping the intake manifold fixed it. How bizarre, I had no faith that would work. I guess the fuel supply was hosed to that side? Injectors, regulator....? No idea. Totally pumped it fixed it though.

Swapping the intake manifold fixed it. I assume the fuel injectors or supply was bad? Anything else on the intake manifold that could be bad - fuel pressure regulator, could that affect only one side (down stream side?)? Honestly I had zero confidence this was going to fix it. I was so confident it wouldn't that i reused the intake manifold gaskets. GAH!

that's not in close to every thread. it might help to know what and why you're searching/looking. i say that comment often in reference to EJ22's and EJ18's, but that's in a certain context, not random like you're quoting it. folks are often trouble shooting a bad engine or trying to decide how to fix/replacement options. that's my way of saying EJ18/EJ22's have fewer issues than EJ25's and are a nice option for folks that have to go through the effort/costs of motor replacement. consider ebay or the JDM EJ25 options...that's a poor choice in some ways compared to other options. those used EJ25's have a fine chance of blowing headgaskets ($1,000 repair bill to the average non-mechanic) and even repairing an EJ25 isn't always tempting since they're known to loose rod bearings too, probably an artifact of previous overheating. sorry if it seems rudimentary, on it's own it does. in context it makes sense to me.

could be wheel bearings but it could still be a ball joint or tie rod or bushing too. i think you have just as good of a chance as the wheel bearing fixing this as you do of replacing the wheel bearing and still having the noise. i have seen failing wheel bearings exhibit no noise at all, so that you can't hear it while driving straight doesn't surprise me. 10,000 is low for brakes. i replaced the 02 OBW H6 VDC I have at 137,000 and they are just now needing replaced at 177,000 - so 40,000 miles. i got pads that came with all new clips/hardware. when doing a brake job the clips should be replaced or thoroughly cleaned or the pads don't slide smoothly and ride on the rotors longer than necessary when the brakes are let off. and the caliper slides need greased. mechanics skip these steps all the time. you could have also had the rotors turned rather than replacing all 4. the original subaru rotors are higher quality materials than most aftermarkets anyway and it would have been cheaper. bearings don't tend to go out at 80,000 - they are mostly random and go out whenever they want too. my 177,000 mile OBW has never had bearings replaced. when doing axle work, the bearings are exposed as well as the seal. i've seen some folks that replace this wheel seal every time the axle comes out (i never have) to keep the seal fresh and grease in the bearing and dirt from getting into the bearing.

any check engine light? crank or cam sensor will cause no start conditions. get a used one, they don't fail often enough to warrant the high price of new. ignition coil/igniter could be failing too.