idosubaru

nice hit, that's what it must be then. this happened once before, so it's seemingly repeatable. i'm confident assuming it's not electrical or something wacky and don't have the time any time soon. assuming there's little possibility of it hurting anything? thanks all.

two important questions: is it 100% related to load - meaning going up hills? is it loosing any coolant?

that's a good call - know anyone who has one? i'd let you borrow mine, i've offered it up for board members before.

right, those gauges aren't that accurate or meaningful. let me clarify what i'm asking. all Subaru owners manuals tell you how much fuel is left in a tank when the low fuel light comes on - it's usually about 2.5-3.0 gallons. that's standard, known information. and i'm an engineer so i've tested the limits. every other subaru i've ever owned (only been about 30 ) is completely calculable how much you can drive. 2.5 gallons left at 20 miles per gallon (low estimate) - you can easily go 50 miles in any subaru when the low fuel light first comes on. i've done it a thousand times in all sorts of different soobs....just be careful if you're towing, roof racks, bike, etc, 80mph, you might not be getting 20mpg. hmmm, yeah maybe it's something like that - wonder how it works or what could be different so i can understand what's going on. JCE - most subaru's have a 15.9 gallon tank - i believe the OBW H6 has a 16.9 (the extra gallon apparently didn't help. )

i figured you'd be able to find a place to do the extraction for you, much simpler and probably your best option on a head bolt. you might even be able to ask if you can tow the entire vehicle there, if they have a bay or something to pull it in they might do it right in the car.

2002 OBW H6. Runs and drives great. Ran out of gas and it only took 14.2 gallons - supposed to have a 16.9 gallon tank. Drove 19 miles after the low fuel light came on. I realize I can get gas sooner but at the same time this isn't like any other Subaru I've ever driven. Don't recall the gas tank being dented or anything.

on ones that are really stuck, i've had that mangle the threads too, i don't do it any more.

accident doesn't sound worthy enough to cause the lock issues. not familiar with testing the lock timers, but that causes other door lock issues.

my buddy had great luck with one of those two (i didn't think it would worK).

once in college i took my car to a shop and asked them to loosen one bolt i couldn't get off - they didn't even charge me for it. got any shops close by? remove the axle from the trans so you can just take them the hub/axle assembly if you want. but i'd just have them loosen it and then tighten it with your stuff just tight enough to get home. you need a piece of pipe - an 18" breaker bar isn't nearly enough for an axle nut if that's what you're talking about. you need like 3 feet of pipe minimum for axle nuts. sometimes they come off easy, but there are plenty out there that are insanely hard. got a torch handy? heat the nut up (you want the heat on the nut only) with a propane torch and try to remove it immediately. even the little propane ones help tremendously if you're quick with it. got a hammer - poor man's impact wrench is to wail the end of your breaker bar. on tight axle nuts a 1/2" tool will break, i've sheared off 3, so make sure it's a craftsmen or replaceable. know anyone you can borrow tools from - long pipe, 3/4" socket? also - easier than a bearing job is just swapping in a used hub. you don't need to spend $400, you've still got dozens of options.

good job trying to track this down so far. has the car ever been in an accident? if so you might want to look there at wiring/switches/connectors. to throw parts at it i'd replace the door lock timer, it's behind the glove box/dash area and a common replacement item. if unplugging it gets rid of the drain then that might suggest it's the timer. if the door switches can cause drains then unplugging those should also alleviate the drain. you could place a multimeter or one of those test lights between the battery cable and terminal of the battery and watch the drain decrease as you disconnect the timer/door mechanisms too. and really? a brand name ego game? so you've been thoroughly indoctrinated by a brand and you get puffed up by metal pieces and tiny bubble worlds, there's healthier ways to live and interact with people but i think i can guess how much you care and what your reply will be.

yeah tie rods are tricky like that a lot of times. sometimes you just gotta learn a few tricks hands on, glad you made it through you'll be better for it next time.

good job doing some research. you have a few options. EA series is older generation (mostly 80's) subaru's, so doesn't apply to yours. the EJ25 has a propensity to blow headgaskets and block bearings. the EJ22 is swapped in place for a few reasons, it's an easy swap (plug and play), does not have headgasket and bearing issues, and cheap. due to the EJ25 issues the demand is high and therefore the engines are expensive. are you sure your EJ22 has blown headgaskets, they don't really blow headgaskets unless they've been overheated or abused? do you know the history - has it ever been overheated (or - when was it overheated?). the EJ25 will drop right in. it'll bolt up and plug right in, very easy swap. the only thing that you'll need an EJ25 flexplate since yours is from an automatic and the EJ22 flexplate won't work. bolt an EJ25 flexplate onto your EJ25 and it'll drop in and plug right up. the 95 auto will have EGR, so make sure your 98 has EGR. MOST due, but not 100%. keep in mind the 98 is an interference engine but the 95 is not. if the timing belt, or tensioner, or any of the timing pulleys, breaks on the 98 you'll bend some valves in the heads. best to get an ebay kit and replace all the pulleys and belt. you could install the EJ22 heads onto the EJ25 block - you'd get a high compression power boost and new head gaskets. i'd rather have new headgaskets before installing that motor anyway - it's really hard to install the headgaskets in the car so yo'ud probably be yanking it later if it looses the headgaskets. resealing the EJ22 is a great option, i'd be surprised if it's not good for another 100,000 miles easily. you can do the headgaskets without pulling the motor, a bonus in my book.

no need to remove any other bolts but those two 14mm's you already removed for the lower motor mounts. if you're removing the engine you can also drop it off at a machine shop and they'll remove the bolt for you. they'll have no problems getting it out, just call around and find one willing to take the entire engine. not sure what you're machine shop rates are but around here it would be no materials and $30-$80 for an hour labor depending on the area of the country you live in. that would save you the hassle, time, and tool purchases. sounds like you're totally down with pulling the motor, that will definitely make the job simpler. i'd replace simple things like pilot bearing and throw out bearing while it's apart unless they're in near perfect condition. oil pan gasket would be really easy with engine out too as discussed in a previous reply, it's very tricky to do in the car.

Left/right doesn't matter either, they're the same.

clean out the EGR, worth the easy and couple minutes to possibly get rid of the code. otherwise it won't hurt anything. hmmm, EJ22 and EJ25 intake manifolds are different but it is a plug and play swap so i'd assume that as long as you get it to plug in it'll be fine. can you just swap the TPS or is it a different set up?

must be missing something, the engine definitely will raise up - it has to in order to come out so you'll have to figure out what's wrong regardless of if you try to just lift it or actually remove it entirely. it's standard procedure for replacing the oil pump as the pan will not come off without jacking the engine up due to the baffles in the pump and sump passing through it - the pan has very little room to move, so the engine has to be jacked up off the crossmember. the engine mounts pass through the cross member and there's one 14mm bolt holding each one in place - sounds like you removed both of those? we must be forgetting something....

Subaru or MWE (he's been rebuilding them for like 30 years) axles only. If you search here you'll find about 3,000 posts saying bad things about aftermarket axles. I've definitely posted hundreds of times alone.

looked up 99 sedans in a 300 miles radius in Washington state and 3 out of 7 listed were SUS. 300 miles around me in MD and 4 out of 21 were SUS. seems about what i'd expect, i think they were offered nationwide. i like a lot, i think they really set themselves apart from plain old sedans. if i find one with a blown engine or something i'd buy it.

yeah those tech guys sometimes lump all vehicles in one big box, but there's really no reason to replace a good knuckle on this vehicle.

sorry i missed the ? but yeah it was 6 cylinder. hope it works out, i think it would. us older gen guys swap in 20 and 30 year old fuel pumps with ease that have been sitting for who knows how long. i'm installing one that's been sitting for years the week after christmas into an XT6, i'm confident it'll be fine.

it's more dynamic than that too. 8 failures? i realize you're just gathering info but that's a drop in the bucket statistically, some folks on here have seen more, repaired more, or owned more blown EJ25's than that themselves. subaru's extended headgasket warranty is applied to 2000-2002 models, so should 02's be lumped into the 00-01 range. i mean i guess it depends how they drew that line....maybe they just started adding coolant additive at a certain date? newer vehicles will get more resources devoted to them - money, repairs, questions, research, opinions, reported, etc. older ones are more likely to just get dumped and move on. the older ones are easier to find blown on craigslist or other online or local trader type places. i can pretty much find one...if not multiples...per day for sale and they're usually the DOHC's.

MU HAAAA HAAA!!!!! Actually it's your car! I didn't really pay much attention when I was plugging around before, just recalled seeing it amongst the many others I looked at and I'm not familiar with those older ones so I glance over them. I'll be traveling to that area Wednesday, Massillon, OH.

i don't know if there's different grades, but my machinist friend generally told me to stray away from titanium. something about it's just a coating. a high quality carbon steel (i think) bit is what you want. $250 is really high, i saw some like that too. i saw other sets (it's been a year though) for like $70 and $80 too. i can't imagine needing more than two or three tops. measure a bolt - they're 14mm i think or close to that? you'll want one just short of that.

looks like a legit 37k. i was asking how to tell because i did see one listed yesterday - actually it was in Ohio ironically enough with low mileage. in general it's not hard to find a buyer for $1,000 for any car that runs without major issues. the more you want to get out of it the longer you'll probably have to wait to find the right buyer looking for one. the FWD and auto won't help as as value is concerned. i would think it'd be much easier to get $2,000 without the auto. * But - There is a very unpredictable market for low mileage cars. If I were wanting to make something I'd probably try Subaru forums really quick and then give ebay a try. There's some real novelty loving people out there that will pay for low mileage, it's a small market but they'll pay high dollar for low mileage stuff.