idosubaru

Scott and others on here make lift kits, SJR is Scotts and I like my lift kit i bought from him. He had to sort of custom make me a set and it's fantastic. I'm sure he'd just get you a 1" (or whatever you want) rear lift for your struts assuming they do the same strut top extensions.

Like he said, is the engine repairable, that's usually a better option if it is. the info listed on that motor you posted is wrong so we can't tell you anything about incorrect information....except that you should assume it's not the right motor until it's verified. http://www.car-parts.com will give you all the EJ22's (just look for a 2000 Impreza 2.2 liter) or EJ25's in your area. You can sort by distance from your zipcode. I too would lean towards an EJ22 but wouldn't make any decisions until i saw prices/mileage/warranty/etc. I prefer the EJ22's better reliability and you can often get them cheaper though there aren't many of these newer ones out there. The EJ25 is a bit easier swap, better resale, and more power though, so perfectly good reasons either way.

a glance at an FSM to see what fuses and fusible links are related to these circuits would probably narrow this down for you.

scott has a great idea (and quite a bit of experience to work with too!). no seller is going to ask if there's pending deals. a buyer that's okay with letting you sit on product is probably okay saying "no, no existing deals" - and they'd feel perfectly fine without any contract or money exchanged yet. that being said - shouldn't you be able to tweak this and still sell it? that's why companies and org's work with contracts. the more that's communicated up front the smoother transactions go. but of course you hate feeling like a machine and loosing the personal touch that we have with small business. you're kind of stuck there trying to maintain the hand shake deals. that's preferable but doesn't always work. if someone isn't ready to pay, then they aren't ready for your product. good turn around time will help you a lot too.

in the US many of the national, larger chain of stores will read check engine lights for free. i've bought scanners for $30 off ebay, well worth it to check and erase the codes yourself. it's a waste to assume or do any work without reading those codes. it might tell you exactly what is causing the issue. no point in replacing the entire intake, harness, dealing with an EGR block off if an idle controller just needs cleaned or replaced. if they are both DOHC then phase is not your issue. to clarify what Phase means, in the US the EJ25 went through some changes in 1999. 1996-1998 and some 1999's are Phase I EJ25 and DOHC subaru made some changes around 99 to the idle control, electronics, valve train, etc. some 1999 and all 2000+ EJ25's are Phase II EJ25's and SOHC.

yeah pretty much anything for like 15 year span bolts right up, that's the easy part. turbo/non-turbo doesn't matter as far as bolting up to the transmission goes. the engine cross member prevents a stock turbo set up from being installed in a non-turbo car, it doesn't have the exhaust clearance. i believe the typical solution is to get a turbo crossmember and swap it in.

relay would seem a likely failure point. is the fan triggered by a coolant temp sensor or is it toggled on directly by the ECU? i haven't run across this in newer gen stuff. does that fan come on with the A/C as well, is that another area to check - another relay for that?

the differences are minor and you can swap them all day long. doesn't even matter if it's 2.2 or 2.5 liter, they'll interchange as well. of course it's desirable to stay as close as possible since they are likely calibrated for given weights, etc, but i've never noticed a difference personally. up to 1998 is fine and 99 Legacy's are fine. 99 Forester and Impreza RS will not work. 99 EJ22's won't work. Any other 99's or earlier will. clear as mud? i have an ECU that's a great match for you. Sedan, 2.5 liter, automatic, DOHC, Legacy LSi. PM or email me and we'll deal. that being said - i would guess this is something other than the ECU causing this.

i'm not really sure but i don't think you should have idling issues with the JDM intake. are they both DOHC or both SOHC or did you mix and match Phases? Mixed phases have idling issues. retaining the same phase shouldn't have issues. have you checked the check engine light to see if you have any codes? i would clean out the idle control valve first and see if that smooths things out. your harness swapped on the JDM intake should run and idle just fine. oh yeah - the JDM might have one of the block off plates on it like i mentioned? if so just remove the one bolt holding it in place and install it on your USDM intake if you go that route.

unless you retain EGR you'll get a check engine light that is impossible to work around, so you'll only want to do this if your laws allow a check engine light. many states down here won't pass inspection or emissions like that. i'm fortunate to live in a state that it doesn't matter, so i have my EGR deleted because i did essentially the same thing you're trying to do. i removed the EGR on mine when i swapped engines just because i don't like EGR and it's unnecessary....and it doesn't matter where i live. you don't say what you're doing or what the issue is exactly so i'm going to infer. more details help a lot when all we have is words. i guess the JDM doesn't have EGR? and the JDM wiring harness connectors are different? you have a couple options: bolt your intake manifold on top of the JDM engine. you get your original wiring but you're left with the EGR stuff from the intake manifold but nothing on the engine (i'm guessing since you don't say). that's basically what i did with mine. just make a block off plate to cover the hole on the intake manifold, that's it. some subaru engines that came without EGR have a Subaru block off plate on them - i used one of those. you could also swap your intake manifold wiring harness onto the JDM intake so then you don't have to mess with the block off plate. you could also install your intake manifold and devise your own plumbing of the EGR pipe down to the exhaust manifold, thereby retaining your EGR system. that's probably the best option for most people to just keep everything stock and happy. *** this last option is the only way to not have a check engine light constantly on the car (not counting removing the light bulb for the check engine light ):lol: all of the other methods will result in a check engine light. there is no work around, you can cut wires, install resistors, and even install ECU's from cars without EGR (which i've done) and for some reason no one has been able to figure out a work around. so unless you're really gifted and have time you don't want to attempt this without being totally excited about having the check engine light. it allows you to talk about your engine swap a lot more "hey why is your check engine light on...??"

Copy that, will check for clearance. It's an LSi and sits really low to the ground so really tight clearance seems likely. It is a 4WD chasis (the one i converted to FWD). I would think that floor metal is to thin for just welding a nut to it. I know it would stick but doubt it has much capacity.

YES! you guys are the bomb, thanks rob and john. it'll be nearly identical to the impreza rob so that saves me from wasting time underneath. the access hole may be a work around. i recall seeing a plate with 3 screws close to the back seats on the drivers side, is that it? if there's enough room i can tack weld a bolt to a thin steel plate and fish it where i need it, that would work perfectly. thanks guys. i'll post pictures of what i'm doing if it works out.

Need to install a couple bolts through the rear trunk bottom on a 96 Legacy, about one inch behind the rear seats. Is the gas tank right up against the sheet metal back there? Will I have access from underneath to install a capture nut from underneath? I'm sure that metals thin so it's not going to be adequate for threaded itself, i'll need a bolt behind it.

doesn't much matter. good thing you're already looking at kits with the idlers and tensioners included, that's more important than timing belt brand. the 20 year old bearings in your timing components are not going to be smooth like new ones. the ebay timing belt kits are only $60 and included all new pulleys, that's what i always get. theimportexperts is probably the USMB's favorite supplier off ebay. confusing why they have such good prices but those products aren't available to other companies?

great, glad to hear the mirror worked out. dedicated snows will outperform all seasons. if extra traction is necessary then the minor difference in tire size is probably small change compared to going with studs. he's got a great excuse to buy 17's, leave the man alone!

88 GL will be EA81 88 GL wagon is EA82 not sure but should be lots of info on here about it, it's an EA82 - EA81 trans swap. closest i could find was this which is also EA82 into EA81 i think though is says 80-84 body styles. the "dual range" part really doesn't change much for you, still the same installation for the most part for all EA82 MT's. http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=49952 EA82 MT into hatch: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115225&highlight=EA82+trans+swap

i've never heard of solutions to noisy tires. wonder what makes one noisy anyway. your year forester is notorious for failed wheel bearings, make sure it's not that. Subaru has an updated bearing design to replace them with. return, get a credit, etc? check the reviews at tirerack.com or similar tire sites? might be a common issue or you might be able to check next time before you buy. 1/4" does not make a tire bald - it's circumference difference that the Subaru manual talks about - not diameter. same size tires can be quite different in actual size. this won't be causing this issue though. if it's not an S model it doesn't matter side to side, it's just an open diff in the front and rear. you can google or look it up elsewhere if you like on how an open diff works. if front to back didn't matter then technically Subaru's would never need to have tires rotated since they don't tend to wear one side faster than the other due to AWD (depending on driving style ). but that's not the case and does cause damage.

BFH

cool, do it. never heard of anyone doing that on a subaru, they do it on trucks all the time. i'm sure you thought about and ruled out a 1/2" or 1" lift.

that will work just fine. only limitation to diameter is rubbing but a 17" shouldn't matter. you could use the miata tire size calculator online to see how much taller and wider (or shorter and thinner) a tire is than stock.

if you hit a big bump and it bottoms out then it sounds like something is wrong with the suspension. is there any hope of properly adjusting/tweaking the suspension? some early legacy's came with an air suspension that is self leveling. those struts would swap right in and would be easy to add a fitting to fill them with compressed air. i have the opposite on one of my XT6's right now - air suspension up front and rear coil overs. others have done different variations as needed. you could even install the compressor (front drivers side fender is stock location on the XT6 and probably the legacy) and run a toggle switch to just control the height yourself.

your best bet is to pick something and run with it - do some reading, etc. like brakes.....suspension....read up, get a feel for what you're after and ask some specific questions. jamal has a great brake thread about possible upgrades. it's in the USRM. which is probably a great place to peruse for other possible upgrades. nice sway bar thread on one of the legacy forums. white line and others make improved end links for the sway bars. the legacy GT's i've been in seem to ride nice, i like they way they ride. not much to gain with a normally aspirated engine so go with whatever you personally think sounds cool. can't make easy significant 1/4 mile or 0-60 improvements, simpler to enjoy the car for what it is IMO. go test drive a few with heated seats, they are really lame. by the time they're warm the car is already warm, pointless. someone with back problems or a coddled needy person with a dinky range of tolerance may enjoy them. the novelty is an attraction too, "that's right honey, heated seats". i can't lie, it does sound good. i bought a set for one of my other cars and they're useless for me so i'm not going to bother installing the. if you still want them - you'll need any 2000-2004 Legacy or Outback. Wagon and sedan are intechangeable up front, they'll need to match for the rears. Some models have side air bags, but you can still install them, those bags just won't work.

no additives period. any suggestion for you to use an additive right now is purely anecdotal, not the best way to make a decision. it can not help you. have the fluid professionally changed.

they should compress with a "clamp" or vice. or they should disassemble just fine for cleaning that way. a seized one won't budge with a clamp or vice, it's obviously bad. just pumping with fingers or weak tools isn't adequate as old HLA's are going to be hard to compress sometimes. i'm talking about under load. mizpah rebuilds them for like $3-$5 each, well worth it then you don't mess with them.

+1 headbolts are not the problem unless someone previously went to lowes to replace them. . review the list above.