idosubaru

if you buy an EJ25 it'll surely be the short block. just make sure it's good. short block means an engine without heads. long block is a complete engine with heads, valve train, etc. short block just means to use the EJ25 with EJ22 heads. EJ25 with EJ22 heads is saying the same thing as EJ25 short block with EJ22 heads. clear as mud?

lots of changes in the phase II EJ25 that make this a tough swap. to do it you'd swap wiring harness of the EJ25 onto the EJ22, but the MAF/MAP and idle control changes make it not simple. it won't idle at all will be a significant problem.

you've probably already seen one, but like GD said the rear mains are huge seals compared to the others. as to head gasket failures, the dealers i've talked to don't even mill the heads. like GD said it's not an easy job and lots of folks are getting the gaskets/blocks dirty or contaminated with oil/coolant and then the torque sequence. there's a lot of things to go wrong on a such a precise job. i would suspect most failures are a glitch in the process. haven't seen many repeat failures in other soobs - but they don't have near the volume of headgasket jobs.

nice fix, glad it was simple. it's a preference, but it's simpler to use the marks on the engine verses marking belts/pulleys. the marks on the engine work 100% of the time so there's no need to mark anything.

cam and crank sensors are known for causing no start conditions. hopefully that was it.

an EJ25 is basically just a bored out EJ22, so if the work was done right it shouldn't matter. ideally subaru headgaskets were used as EJ25's are known to have headgasket issues. BH mentions interference by which he means valve to valve interference. I think these swaps can still create a valve to piston interference so I wouldn't bank on that without further confirmation.

doubt you'll need to since that other dude it working on it, i'm sure they'll find a solution. these guys claim to have one for $50. 800-392-5595

definitely OEM, no reason to stray from that. there's a recent thread - like yesterday or today that has all the part numbers in it, maybe that's where you got those from. Skip has a detailed list too - you can type in "skip Ej25 headgasket" or something like that in google and it'll come up. yes the valves "can" be clearanced in the car. you can search for info on that too, it's not fun.

woah what a crazy looking switch, what is that? is it lighted? what was originally in that slot?

i wouldn't use engine flushes. if you use anything, just add some ATF or Seafoam to your oil. If you've got one notably loud HLA then that HLA is probably going to need replaced. If the TOD moves and is all over the place, those seem better resolved with oil pump reseals/replacement. I and others have had luck resealing oil pumps or buying new pumps to alleviate the ticking associated with HLA's. The board owner of Subaruxt.com was having TOD that would not go away - he resealed his oil pump twice. I gave him a new pump and the TOD is now completely gone. I've had that happen before as well. My order of attack is to try some ATF in the oil. If that doesn't work then reseal the oil pump. If that doesnt' work, replace the oil pump and/or HLA's. Resealing the pump is easy anyway - I just plan on doing a timing belt with it which is a maintenance item anyway and will need replacing at some point. Get an $80 ebay timing belt kit so you have all new pulleys and do it at the same time as an oil pump reseal, hardly any extra work, just some planning and you've done maintenance that needs done anyway.

you want to do an SPFI swap? you'll want to find the write up for that. as for cost, do you mean for parts or to have someone do it? parts will vary wildly, depends on your resources and time and luck. pull it yourself yards close by with good rates and older EA stuff? got time to wait for a good deal or need it now? just depends, this stuff isn't at walmart! same sort of goes for installing it. free if you do it yourself, to pay someone will vary all over the place being a custom job. another good option is to post what parts you want in the parts wanted forum here. include your location as some folks arent' going to mess with shipping motors.

i've seen folks talking about it, but never saw folks mention numbers, so i was surprised to see them that high. nice.

lift it and 5 lug. otherwise not much. best fit is as reliable transportation that can rack up a lot of cheap miles. but if it's just for fun then do whatever you want.

really? EJ25 block with EJ22 heads is that high? wow. what's the down side - higher octane gas and piston to valve interference? i have a few EJ's lying around, i need to know this.

The $100 EJ25 engine is a great deal if it's just a broken timing belt. They bend valves, nothing more..well i'm sure someone could find a way.... So it just needs a head job basically, not that big of a deal. Be sure to read up on the Ej specific issues on here if you want to repair it, we'll walk you through. But it's not a straight swap into your older gen soob as GD outlined.

2WD/4WD doesn't matter though. it's been asked before as well. same swap, same details. you can use rear XT6 2WD hubs instead of 4WD. you can still use 4WD rear hub assemblies too though, you just won't have axles attached to them. read through those threads and get a feel for it, the 2WD thing is a drop in the bucket for this swap.

sorry, i tried to clarify but didn't. i wasn't suggesting a different motor, but a way to use the one you have. how about use an OBDII EG33 INTAKE? intakes are usually easy to find, people trash them all the time. SVX long block is the same OBDI and OBDII right, no difference? that's what i did - OBDI long block - OBDII intake manifold - OBDII vehicle. plug and play, which yours won't be since it's an H6 swap but that might make it straight forward and no messing with TCU's or ECU's.

that's the FET - and it causes a no start when it fails. i've never seen one fail intermittently though, it's usually bad or good. but given that it's visually compromised that probably was the issue. definitely get a new rotor under the distributor. the idle control valves on these old cars are often sticky and dirty. cleaning them is a really good idea as they'll have no start and idle issues with them. the valve opens to allow air past while the throttle is closed (at idle/no throttle). when it sticks it won't let enough air through during idle/start up. really common on XT6's and while EA IAC's are different i think they can still stick. though i think on some EA's they're really annoying to get to. but i'd look there if it comes back.

there's a ton of threads, probably hard to find since "5" and "lug" are too short to search with. there's most importantly a complete 5 lug swap write up. you should read through those and ask what you don't understand. there's a bunch of ways to do it and variables, read the 5 lug swap thread in the USRM first, make a list, get a feel for it, then ask. essentially the critical hard to find parts are XT6 rear hubs and XT6 front control arms.

whatever online vendors are recommend here are the best pricing wise, no specials or anything outside of that. one of them occasionally sends me coupons around holidays it seems. labor day is coming they can pressure test the heads for cracks ($40-$60 each side). some subaru heads i always have pressure tested, but i never get EJ25's pressure tested because it's so rare for them to crack. i've never seen them crack nor heard of it on here either. my time is very valuable so i'm not interested in doing anything twice either, i usually err on the side of caution but these are really low risk. some subaru dealers don't even resurface the heads. heads won't be cracked unless it was beat. timing covers, knock sensor, and other plastics would be melted severely if it was beat enough to crack heads. they sell radiator cleaner solutions or a radiator shop can clean them. deposits build up and get crusted in there, exacerbated by the overheating - kind of like a distiller boiling off water and leaving the caked on residue. i've ran water through a couple clogged radiators and it hasn't helped at all, you'd be lucky if it did i think. you can always just see if it runs hot or not and replace the rad later. you can buy radiators for only like $80-$90 for these things shipped to your door - like radiatorbarn.com and stuff, so they're not expensive and easy to replace. the anaerobic sealant is a two part sealant - a tube of red sealant and a bottle of applicator spray used in conjunction with it. it's not designed to dry like normal sealant. it's expensive, like $20 - $25 but it's worth it for what it's used for to me.

oh okay, so it just switched the same as the rest, thanks. i suppose you're wanting to keep it OBDI? how about use an OBDII SVX intake manifold? wouldn't that alleviate some concerns (and create others ) ? then you could probably use an SVX ECU and TCU. i think i'd aim for everything OBDII SVX, with your "OBDI" long block and keep the forester trans, seems like that would be easy (as easy as wiring an AT swap gets anyway ) i did the same thing a few years ago. OBDI engine, OBDII intake, OBDII body. there were some trans changes in 99 - like the delayed forward engagement issue - but i think they're still the same electrically?

oh okay, yeah you're doing the right thing replacing all that stuff while you're in there. exactly what i normally do. that's a great way to get another reliable 105,000 miles until the next timing belt change. i'd add three parts to your list. oil pump oring, Subaru water pump gasket, and anaerobic sealant. the aftermarket water pump gaskets are flimsy cardboard junk and anaerobic sealant is what Subaru uses, normal sealant clogs oil passages when it squishes and comes loose internally. last EJ25 i tore apart this summer had RTV all up in the oil sump pick up screen. probably didn't matter, it got stopped, but not worth the risk to me. no special tools required. remove the timing belt with all the marks lined up. the upper drivers side is the one prone to snap. it snaps to a benign position, so no worries, just move it back. not hard to devise something to hold it in place either - a clamp holding the upper to the lower one, etc. but i have installed them without any holders before too - from memory i think that's easier on a timing belt job than head gasket as i think they're more prone to snap after a HG job. do not plan on reshimming to be easy or quick, that's a total pain.

wiring differences anyone? it will bolt right up just fine. there are two final drive ratios offered in subaru manual trans of this time period - 3.9 and 4.11. it would depend which models of legacy's you're talking about. GT and OBW will be 4.11. other models can be 3.9's. you'll also want to clarify hydraulic clutch verses cable clutch. i believe you can "swap" between the two, but the purchaser might prefer knowing that up front. *** oh yeah, you're lucky - JCE is looking at this thread, you're in good hands!

should be the only one getting power with the key out of the car, right? check for power on every pin? did you tap into lines for the aux input (nice job by the way!)? check all those connections?

4WD stuff will swap. gas tank will need to be swapped. i've seen where some 2WD's don't have the bolt holes for the center carrier of the 4WD driveshaft. but the bosses are there - so just drill and tap, it's really easy just drill two holes and tap them. but probably just as much chance of the holes already being there anyway. not sure which 4WD set up that has but it could require a solenoid and some vacuum hoses in the engine compartment too for the 4WD actuator. be as descript as you can when asking about swaps. 93 loyale is EA82. the 87 GL should be EA82 as well since you say wagon. * you don't say which trans they have either, though we can assume their both manuals by the clutch comment.