idosubaru

kevin, robs figure is probably pretty close. mileage is more important than condition in some ways. there's quite a few people that hold low mileage in high regard, almost novelty status, and will pay for it. the market for old subarus is down compared to even just a couple years ago. impreza's and legacy's....even foresters now are coming into that price range and there's not a lot of folks wanting old school soobs in light of what you can now get with EJ's which have more options, ABS, newer, better power, more refinements, etc. the higher the price - the longer the buyer is going to have to wait to get it.

you're sure it's a bottom end knock problem right? timing tensioners or piston slap on these can sound like a terribly metallic knock too. these new style tensioners are known for this and piston slap is not a big deal...just terribly annoying.

i thought that's what it was just making sure, just surprised it had a cable clutch. all the legacy GT's i've had were hydraulic clutch. just retain all the cable clutch bits off the forester and swap them onto the new trans. i haven't done it, but have heard, through the truth factory known as the interweb, that they are interchangeable. hydraulic clutches are less reliable than cables anyway with the number of mc, slave cylinder, and hose failures they have. good luck!

i've seen this exact same issue. the only difference on mine was it would last longer than 20 seconds. it also had the symptom you describe where at first it wouldn't shift...just hung in 2nd gear. unfortunately i had a spare trans so i just swapped it out. he's right - unplugging the transmission will force it to run mechanically in 3rd gear and locked 4WD. i've unplugged a transmission and manually installed a switch to control the 4WD (it's only one wire, really easy) solenoid so you don't have to run around in locked 4WD all the time. i've driven like this for a long time in a daily driver a few years ago. a little slow getting going in 3rd and high rpm's highway but who cares at least the car moves. you could easily do this and have a drivable car while you continue to diagnose. the TCU uses the TPS signal from the engine, is it worth swapping in another TPS just to see? or testing yours? i would think the trans is toast but you seem intent on figuring this out. that's pretty awesome you're totally fine ripping into the guts of an auto trans.

right on, unless you define "touch" and "clunk" a little better it sounds normal to me. they have some play while stationary. are they subaru axles or aftermarket? aftermarket axles are prone to all sorts of issues, just about anything can happen.

yes, with some welding and fabbing you can do anything! woo hoO!

look up the part numbers online ebay, subaru online vendors and compare speed sensor part numbers. if they're the same golden, if not then you probably just install the one int he current trans into the "new" trans. a used trans is how i would also fix this, sounds like the right track to me. not sure what an "LGT" is, can you clarify that? if it's a GT then it should be a hydraulic clutch, not a cable. really doesn't matter a ton as the clutch cable parts should transfer over - just swap the fork and ball under it i believe. with almost 300,000 miles probably a good idea to get that fork out of there anyway, they do occassionally fail. the inner/outer won't be an issue in 2001.

nice, good to know. i've only bought old gen or newer subaru stuff, never that generation legacy from them.

i keep forgetting to try this or if i asked before - on the old gen stuff you can disconnect the oxygen sensor and the car runs fine. can you do that with new gen stuff?

try the radiatorbarn.com yet, they seem to have the best prices when i look for subaru radiators? rockauto is notorious for this, i wouldn't order a difficult to match up part like this unless you can confirm the peg spacing or something. gotten parts that don't fit many, many times from rockauto. love their prices but their fitment is terrible.

subaru calipers rarely fail, just replace with a used one for cheap and be done with it. someone probably has a good used rotor that can be turned too. or just leave the one that's on there.

what they all said, we buy those ebay kits all the time, importexpeerts seem to be preferred, by me as well.

harmonic balancers do fail and allow the crank to spin within them so to speak. it's not unheard of. we can help you fix that, that's my guess as to what actually happened. all you need is another harmonic balancer. pictures will help us see how much damaged it caused and how to proceed in reattaching the new balancer. i think there's a communication lapse, hence the request for pictures. communication on something like this is really tough when you only have words. be as descriptive and precise as you can because so far it's getting muddied by assumptions. in the first post you say "the balancer broke off" you're also saying the "crankshaft broke" - which is highly unlikely and confusing. those are two separate parts, both did not happen. i think just the balancer broke off - the bolt is still attached to the crankshaft, holding the remaining piece of metal onto the front of the shaft right? if that's the case then this is an easy fix.

did you search or check those threads below titled door alignment? i had to realign a door for some reason about a year or so ago. can't recall any details, but once i had a look it was really easy. just a few tweaks and it was golden. there's not much to it, roughly 4 bolts to remove the door - either from the door itself or unbolt the hinges and leave those on the door - or both. and then the striker. yeah don't even try a screwdriver on those - use an impact srew driver, the kind you hit with a hammer (forget what they're called for sure) or drill it out....but then you don't have another screw for it. good luck beast!.

is it that bad that you can't just sell it as is? on a car this old i'd just sell it with known issues 'as-is'. usually not hard to sell something for $700 that gets from a to b even if it has issues. but maybe it's really bad? have you drained the fluid to see if it's clean or lots of build up on the drain plug? if that was bad then i wouldn't sell it or i'd be up front about that. if the fluid is clean then there's a good chance it might not get worse. everyone is different, so depends on you. i've disassembled one before for kicks and it would be a waste of time for me. it's a huge job. i could flip a car in a day and make $2,000 rather than spend all day (or two) dropping a valve body on a car that's not worth much when i can buy a transmission for $150 and fix it. maybe you could review an FSM detailing auto trans disassembly. putting them back together would be really awesome. but if someone has time to burn then maybe it's a good fit. someone on here has a detailed thread of rebuilding an auto trans in a 1993 they just did last year or so. a very early EJ so it would be identical to yours. i believe it was an impreza, but same exact transmission. might want to find that thread if you're still interested. it ended up having issues when he was done.

it essentially "locks" your front and rear wheels. but it's sort of complicated too. AWD or 4WD has power split from front to back. rear has power split to right and left wheels via rear differential. fronth has power split to right and left wheels via front differential. this mod only controls the first power split which happens in the trans for subarus. this gives you "locked" front to back. if you have open diffs front and back that means 2 wheels getting power. if you have locking rear you can have 3 wheels getting power. very rare, but possible to have a locking front diff. none come stock like that except possibly WRX STi. and then it gets even more complicated than that.

make sure it's not something simple like a hose or the cap spraying long distance and misleading you. otherwise sounds like you need a new radiator. radiatorbarn has some EJ radiators for only like $80 total shipped to your door. you can attempt a repair as long as you don't let it run low or hot at all. if the repair doesn't work, so what just get another radiator. i'd recommend some high grade plastic epoxy, that stuff is awesome. way better than JB weld. i wouldn't put much effort into repair given the low cost of new and age - it's probably partially clogged anyway at this point.

Yeah their catalog absolutely sucks. When you drill down through the models/options/engines - it shows parts for other applications that won't work for what you selected - it's pretty dumb because it's totally misleading. If you pick 4 cylinder, why even show 6 cylinder parts that are completely incompatible?.

you could reseal the cap once you're done with it if you're really pumped to do it now. wouldn't be hard to epoxy a piece of plastic back over top the cut out hole until you get another cap. not ideal but you could do it now if you wanted.

sounds like they should repair it. have you looked yet for the connector? look from underneath, have you done that, they're usually low? if you're not comfortable around cars have someone you know that is take a look, probably take 30 seconds unless they did something weird. thermostatically controlled via the little screw in sensor in the radiator that triggers it on. wiring harness usually comes out at the ends of the lower radiator support and/or runs just under the radiator support. if you crawl under there you should find the connector dangling somewhere. usually the fan wiring has a certain "bent" to it, so just use that as a guide as the left/right up/down, that's usually a good place to start. they're really easy to find, i've never seen one difficult.

Not only do folks rarely rebuild MC's any more, they rarely rebuild Subaru's. it isn't worth it. Subaru masters very, very rarely fail. It's so rare there's just no market for it. That's why so many subaru folks will recommend used MC's, they just don't fail and used ones are like $10, that's what i bought the last one for (ended up not being the master cylinder surprise surprise!). Don't go to a junk yard, my time is too valuable for that, do exactly what you're trying to do with the rebuild kit and order it online. Nearly all junk yards ship now so just find the cheapest one and have it shipped. That being said - Rockauto is probably the best place for a rebuild kit and insanely cheap prices sometimes too.

that's a steal and you'll be getting it done by someone who knows everything subaru. anywhere else would be $500-$1,000.

the arcing doesn't sound good at all, i'd think they need replacing. i've never heard if there's an "acceptable" amount of arcing or not. i normally recommend OEM Subaru, that's usually the best fit for most people. i use magnecors, great quality and service for the price and last the life of the vehicle, or if you're a subaru freak like me they'll last the life of a few Subaru's! don't buy from magnecor, shops/online vendors have them much cheaper than magnecor itself. 50,000 is relatively short, i would assume something happened to them...overheated or compromised in some way. how old are they? did they ever sit for a long period of time? wonder if age is getting to them?

I wouldn't worry about speed rating at all assuming it's a normal tire in all other regards. one step lower isn't a big deal for a daily driver, i've done it before. i doubt all that lifted guys are worried about speed ratings on their huge tires.

disconnect your shift resistor and see what happens. i've disconnected those before, firms up the shifts, and then just leave it like that. i like firmer shifts anyway. doesn't seem like worth opening things up for.