idosubaru

in general you need an adapter plate. folks on here make them or you can try and fabricate one yourself. there's even a thread discussing how to do that. i think you're posting based on GD's response in his other thread: original thread: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=115889 what i would do is to go to the store and compare your trans throw out bearing and clutch (and maybe pilot bearing) to an EJ or EA set. comparing stuff visually often puts things in perspective.

subaru struts are easy to replace. some older ones like 20 years ago are annoying but you might attribute that to age/rust. on the bottom of the strut where it mounts to the hub there are two bolts. 17 or 19mm bolt/nut combination. The top bolt is a cambered bolt and affects alignment. Mark the position of the head when you remove the bolt and reinstall it at that same rotational location on the new strut. If it sounds complicated, it's not and the adjustment isn't all that precise so it's not that crucial or hard to retain. Mark head of bolt...with a marker or chisel (what I do) and reinstall the exact same way. Other than that strut replacement is really easy. Front has 3 nuts at the top, 2 bolts at the bottom and bam the entire thing comes right out. Easy and quick. Rears aren't much different, very easy to replace as well. That's if you're replacing with loaded struts, complete assemblies. If you're actually disassembling and only replacing struts, swapping everything else then you'll need a strut spring compressor. If that's the case then sometimes it's worth it just to let a shop do that part then you do the install of them. Of if you still want to do it buy a cheap spring compressor from harbor freight or get one of the free rentals that many chains stores offer now.

yep, that's how it's supposed to happen with the clip staying on the shaft, just pop it back in.

maybe it would be easier to just get an EJ22 FWD trans to drop in with it? they're a dime a dozen around here, what's the supply like over there? not sure what that would do to your gearing, shouldn't be problematically (wow what a word) different but an EJ might be geared better for the power anyway?

if you scroll down to the bottom left of this current page without clicking on anything you'll see a whole list of similar threads. looks like most are vacuum leaks/related. for instance this is one that's listed: http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/showthread.php?t=100499 looks like that list or a quick search will probably give you a lot to work with and hopefully it's as simple as the couple i scanned.

The times that I've seen that little tiny filter cause an issue it gave an EGR code though I don't recall which one. $7 from Subaru at the online prices last I bought one. Pressure sensor - isn't that the little doodad (sorry i couldn't resist) located on the passengers side strut tower? Might check that there's no vacuum leak or hose disconnected, not seated properly. Maybe changing an air filter could bump it and throw it?

what he said - drive on bud, no issues.

there's a good amount of oil filter threads, i'd check those out. i too prefer WIX but use Purolator Pure One usually just for availability reasons. if an engine is needing to capture that much more "dirt" then the owner or vehicle is to blame for being in such bad shape that it's "creating" or "intaking" that much dirt. you could make a device which allows you to use two oil filters - "increasing" your capacity to hold dirt. but there's no need so no one is doing it. increasing "capacity" could decrease performance. more medium could mean more restrictions, tighter passages, reduced oil pressure available, etc. this is the way it is in anything technical, you rarely gain something without loosing something too. so you have to be careful of marketing ploys that stuff one extra row of material in just to market that it has "more". for every good product out there, there are a thousand marketing ploys to get your money for inferior or par products. I admittedly don't know but would speculate, as it seems others are eluding too, that this is mostly a marketing gimmick to get you to buy their filter. There are all sorts of ways to market something when it actually offers no real world difference. Statistics are what you make them as well. Don't be a product of marketing - make good informed decisions based on folks that actually know what they're talking about, have lots of experience, and not a dime to gain. There in lies the value of this board.

wow that stinks. you're wanting to drop a Phase II EJ22 into a Phase II EJ25 right? 1-800-657-4403 has one for $35 1-800-231-9121 $50 in CT Another option might be to swap the EJ25 intake manifold wiring harness on the EJ22 intake manifold. I haven't done that way yet so not sure if that's possible. Though I'm with you i'd rather go the simpler route and have an entire manifold to save the time. All i have is phase I stuff right now.

once everything is fine, get back to us. wow, that stinks. so you swapped transmissions and the problem came back? so i'd guess, as i think you are, it's external to the trans. The TCU, TPS, and ECU are external but needed for the transmission control. TCU seems likely, but i hate to tell you to throw parts at it like i tend to do! luckily they rarel fail so used is fine and they're cheap because there's no demand. some early 2000 models had TPS issues that affected shifting - but i'm almost positive it was only the H6 models. the ATF light is only supposed to flash 16 times at start up, but i believe when it flashes constantly that means something else. probably like don't drive it or something. the transmission will default to 3rd gear mechanically (if the TCU is disconnected), so it very well may be that your old trans went to operating in purely mechanical mode?

i'd do the same - change out the switch as they do wear and fail frequently. you could pull the panel and test to see if the contacts inside the switch are working or not.

these engines run fine with anything. stock NGK wires are usually recommended but they can be bought anywhere, doesn't have to be subaru. you're not replacing it but for future reference keep your stock coil, aftermarket coils are problematic and you're better off with a used one than aftermarket. as a side note newer subarus (impreza/legacy) are often recommended to stick with subaru wires.

odd indeed. any chance the hose is just junk, compromised in some way, making it expand when it shouldn't? hoses can fail.

good luck pat. i've spun a bearing before too on an EA - car was run low on oil and later in life locked up. EA82's don't typically do that without a reason. i know it doesn't seem like it, but with unabused internals the EA82 can be a cheap and reliable engine, i promise. not much more than that, but it can do that!

boots close to exhaust will cause those to deteriorate quicker too. looks like you have some custom exhaust which means new routing and probably all the heat shields are gone. what size lift? i have a 2" lift on an XT6 which already has a high stance and with boots of any age (even some new ones that were only used a tiny bit but a couple years old), they crack. when i installed brand new boots on mine they've been fine now. i have MWE axles. they are strained at 2", i would guess any more than that is going to cause them to tear significantly more. but yours being what it is will differ a bit.

We need a clearer picture of what's going on. My guess is that the car has torque bind so the FWD fuse was installed (not "pulled" as you said, since there's no fuse to pull). I'm guessing since we don't know what's going on, so just clarify if something doesn't make sense. Remove the FWD fuse, If the torque bind is present then you'll feel the 4WD binding in turns. Also with the FWD fuse removed: 1. If the trans light still blinks 16 times at start up then your Duty C has failed. or 2. If the light doesn't blink then your clutches/hub are hosed. You'll need to pull the rear extension housing to fix either of those. Or you can just wire in a simple switch to control it yourself. Run it FWD, then flick the switch to lock the rear transfer clutches in 4WD. You'll have more control and better traction in really bad conditions. That's what I would do (and have done before).

it's not all that bad and can be done in this case without pulling the motor. i'd have the heads resurfaced on this motor. EJ22's don't blow headgaskets unless they were overheated. so my guess is it was run hot. who knows how often or how bad so that would lend me to not doing it. but you've got a chance of being fine without doing it too, just higher risk. subaru only on the headgasket for this engine. flush the radiator and change the oil. get new valve cover, intake manifold, and exhaust gaskets and that's about all that's necessary. i recommend getting the $70 ebay kit and replace all the timing pulleys, tensioner, and belt while it's apart. throw a new water pump, reseal the oil pump (tigthen backing plate screws, new oring and sealant), and replace the cam seals and cam cap orings and you've got a reliable vehicle for not much extra cost or time. seems like a long list but all of that is easily accessible with the timing belts off. for my cars i do this when i first get them and get an easy and inexpensive 120,000 miles by just replacing the timing belt at 60k.

i'd try to find one with headgaskets already replaced. usually not hard to find depending on area.

yes you can move it paying attention of course.

Reuse it's not a big deal, I do it all the time and I'm working on all sorts of different cars, not just my own. I've done countless axles and have never used a new nut except many moons ago when I lost one and didn't have a box of old ones lying around. The only caveat is that you do it right, but that's the case with new or old. Of course it's just a nut too, so buy a new one if you're worried about it! Call MWE too, he's really nice and might have some to sell with it.

On all the EA/ER vehicles i'm accustomed too the front y-pipe cat is a pre-converter and the one after that is the actual converter? that being said i would never replace the converter on this car. try to keep it as long as you can. cheap aftermarket converters rust out in a year. i'd try to keep the original if there's any chance. if the ignition components are in question at all - replace the plugs, wires, cap, and rotor. when i lived in maryland i passed emissions numerous times by a simple tune up. if that didn't work i'd do those tricks - get whatever kind of gas is best for passing and add those bottles of "pass emissions in a can" stuff. if you're still amped up to replace it then make sure they're welding in something that will actually last. nothing more annoying than your $100 worth of work rusting out in a year or two.

non-issue, you're fine. rotate tires front to back, this is standard subaru stuff here, done all the time.

i typically keep Subaru rotors if i can by having them turned. but i'm also lucky that the shop across the street from my office does it for $15 so it's easy. i'd rather have a turned Subaru rotor than a cheap aftermarket that uses inferior steel. that being said, i've had no problems using the cheap aftermarket rotors and have done so gobs of times. i've had plenty of warped rotors to contend with but newer gen subaru's are known for that and i've never had an indication on which warp more.

yeah that's wierd to me too. both is odd and for complete failure is weird. i know of no fuses or anything rear-specific but obviously this seems to point to that. in my case i've ruled out the stereo and amplifier.

it's locking the center differential inside the transmission. it's not "engaging the rear" in the 4WD sense like a truck or other subaru with PT4WD - it's FT4WD meaning full time 4 wheel drive. the center diff lock doesn't do anything to the front and rear diffs.