idosubaru

the ethanol haters haven't commented yet? is everyone not only pointing to the same cylinder but the same valve within that cylinder? subaru360, Theloyale, GD, et.al. - which valves are we talking within cylinder #4? interesting indeed. i haven't seen it yet, wonder if davebugs has?

+1 to his vote on it being carb related and the coil not being a problem.

insane what you've been through so far, you're amazing for staying this calm about it, i think that's awesome. i'm impressed and think it says all sorts of good things. cheers to that and good luck moving forward. wow, that added up really fast, didn't think shipping would be near that high but even still all the taxes, customs, etc really drive it up quick.

did you type that part number into google and look it up? you could probably even plug it into any number of online subaru dealer sites or just call subaru and ask, they might tell you something, then relay that info to us. 98's have the external trans filter (or at least some of them do), so that might be confusing. your mechanic knows something about it since he said "he thinks it will fit" he didn't just make that up, what if it was a 1978 trans? what does he know that you haven't told us? year, model, etc?

i think dual fans are related to A/C. a fan (or both) comes on when the a/c is turned on.

vehicle/year/engine is helpful. list looks pretty good to me, that's about what i'd be doing, here's some additional thoughts. reseal valve covers and replace spark plugs if it's an EJ25. if it's an EJ22 or EJ18 then i wouldn't care, they're really easy to do in the car so just do whatever you feel like. if they're wet replace. you don't replace any bolts at all, reuse them all. the newer style metal plates have a different style screw but that's to accomodate the different part, not because the screws need replaced. i would add pilot bearing to your clutch part list. oil pans are tricky due to the sump needing clearance through the baffles in the pan, you can't see it so it doesn't make sense until you see it. but if it's wet you might want to consider doing that otherwise you have to unbolt and lift the engine while it's in the car to replace the oil pan. not all big of a deal but not a fun endeavor either.

if you look at the bottom left of this current screen you'll see simliar threads, check those out. not sure if it's one of those, but within the past couple months there was a lengthy thread where someone tried this (though ended up not actually doing that swap because they had a different motor than they thought). no easy work arounds, requires fabbing/customizing/welding. bell housing bolt pattern is different (but that's easy to work around), intake is the biggest debacle. the idle control and MAF to MAP change is what makes it impossible without fabricating something. or you'd have to essentially to a full-on engine swap. install SOHC engine, body side wiring harness (spliced into the existing vehicles harness), and ECU...and then hope it plays nice with the newer Phase transmission, etc.

i'm not familiar with EZ heads. if there are bearing surfaces on them i might want them checked, something the shop could do. they're probably fine but "toasted" lower end is odd. EZ's don't toast lower ends very often so the only concern i'd have is that it's due to low or poor oil which could affect the cams/bearing surfaces on the head (if they have those). the place in maryland is very reliable, my parents know the folks that own it, been there for decades, i've bought parts from them over the years. i'd give them a call.

so it's close to the passengers side door?

great thanks for following up my LSi is doing the same exact thing.

there's a common relay failure as porcupine mentioned that causes this, sounds like you might want to read up on those.

woah! crack! did anyone else drive the car and possibly run it hot? that's bizarre to me, thanks for following up though i hate to hear of all your troubles with it. good news is that it should be good to go and they isolated the issue for sure. didn't see any in CAN, did you find one yet? $150 in NY 1-607-458-5474 $175 in MD 1-800-543-7274 (hey that's my home town, i know that place!) $200 in CT 800-874-7116

I think I'm going to install the fender as-is without clear coat just to see what happens. I'll sand/paint/clear it later. I've seen a ton of recommendations - including a couple folks that say don't sand metallic - well mine is metallic, so I should sand but can't? Still going to paint and clear the hood soon though, I'll do that all the way through.

post in the parts wanted forum here too.

it's been 3 days, and will be more by the time i get the clear coat, since i painted the part. so apparently i've waited too long and shouldn't clear coat it? guess i'll just install the panel and plan to sand/paint/clear coat it when it starts to look bad in a year or two.....or two months! is that my best option, just don't clear coat this now then? i still have to paint some other areas though so i still need this info now as well.

did some reading about painting/clear coat but curious about some things. the priming and base coat are all done. so my next step before clear coating is: 1. wet sand with 2000 grit. 2. clean with wax/grease remover stuff. what's the purpose of the wet sanding? is this to improve the paint finish or for adhesion of the clear coat, or both? i'm not after perfection looks wise, more interested in it lasting (though like welding i realize there's some correlation between the two). seems odd to sand paint. though i realize it's 2000 grit and wet. i've heard folks say the paint looks worse after the wet sanding but looks good once the clear is applied?

that you're looking for frequent towing suggests to me to err on the side of caution and go as light as possible. there's room for more leniency for one time towing. towing never comes down to black and white. you *can* tow just about anything you want. you *can* smoke your whole life and be fine, you *can* eat 200 grams of fat every day and live. you could tow a full size truck, it would "work". there's no magical number where it all becomes impossible. at 500 it works and at 501 it doesn't. think "curve" mathematically speaking. like every 100 pounds adds risk and decreases stopping distance, handling, etc. it's probably a steep curve on older light weight subaru's. like mentioned, towing can be really dangerous and should never be taken lightly when you're maxing out the capacities of any vehicle. if you're towing once, it's not a huge deal. be very careful and drive cautiously, choose your routes, times, etc smart. if you're going to be towing a lot, then you should get conservative really fast. it only takes one time for a person, deer, weather, or any number or things you can't plan for to cause you to loose control. if you've ever had to swerve, you'll have to when towing too, just a matter of when, not if. keep it small, keep the load light, get brakes on the trailer, etc. i've had enough close calls in my full size truck that the next trailer is getting brakes. ride in a vehicle with an out of control load once and that'll change some things it's scary as **&!@@

NO! sorry, i was just kidding. i'd just stick with one that Subaru recommends, I'm sure they settled on that amount for good reason. good luck!

how bizarre they would jump that quick to a rear differential, subaru rear differentials very rarely fail....actually it's closer to "never", even 80's subaru's usually have the original diffs in them (unless someone ungrades to LSD!).

i found this. http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm napa and advanced auto parts is about all i have access to locally so i had to order online, can't think of who else would carry this.

joost said that you can buy dual stage rattle can clear coat. NAPA which sells cans of automotive paint in rattle cans won't sell me dual stage clear mixed in a can, they say it hardens too fast.

yep, sounds like you got it and a good plan. be sure to replace all of the clutch components, clips, throw out bearings, pilot bearing, etc. and i'm sure you're aware that Subaru requires a special coolant additive for this engine, maybe you should dump in two bottles! rear main, but i think that's what you meant. replacing the front main is fine, the rear main is typical to leave it because they very rarely leak.

i don't worry about the belt covers and i drive off road, deep snow, hunt, etc. been doing it for years. if the covers aren't falling apart and you want to keep them, reinstall them with zipties so they're easy to remove next time.

unless you live in the rust belt and the corossion makes them all look the same. :lol: some are hard to tell by just looking at the cross section, not much to look at. :-\

do not replace Subaru head bolts. it's not a matter of opinion, but type of bolt. your year had the Subaru extended head gasket warranty campaign to 100,000 miles, 2000-2002 depending on VIN. so it could have been replaced under warranty already...i mean it still could be replaced even if it wasn't under warranty. maybe you could look for signs of a prior replacement if you bought it used? or check with a dealer and have them run the VIN number? when i got my 2002 OBW i called the dealer and they told me all the services that were done to it. don't *need* to have the heads milled but it's a good idea. you get the best seating of the new headgasket with a milled and clean surface. but i've skipped this before too depending on the situation/vehicle. Subaru doesn't even mill them all even on leaking headgaskets. you'll likely be taking the flywheel into a machine shop anyway so it's not much more "work" in those regards. you'd be getting a whole lot more for your money to do them both yourself. so maybe pay for it if you decide just on the clutch but do it yourself if you decide to do both. with the engine already out the headgaskets really aren't all that bad to do. maybe you can ask the shop doing the clutch to "let you have the engine" for a couple days and slap those headgaskets on there? definitely install new spark plugs while it's out no matter what you decide.