jazzician

Well, I guessing that a Legacy sensor would allow more air intake? To tell you the truth, I'm not sure. It is something that my mechanic suggested. Simon

My mech was curious if we could put an Air Intake Sensor from a 90'ish Legacy into an 89 GL10. Any thoughts? simon

Yah, I'm in Vernon right now and maybe moving to Saanich so a meet would be good. Yah, convoy goooood. Simon

Hey Phishy, you're in Victoria? I'm coming down to Saanich to a couple of job interviews. I hear there is a really good Subie Used Parts Thingie around there. Simon

Hey there. When I got my 89 GL10, I was told that being on anything other than dry pavement, you could turn on the 4wd whenever. There was some issue with going into a tight turn with the 4wd on was something that can cause damage. In terms of long term damage with extended 4wd use and excess fuel consumption, I'm not really sure except for what I was told above. Simon

I was looking at WRX's in Japan and have friends that are importing other cars from Japan and was considering picking one up. The only concern is that there are radical (ie: drivetrain) differences between the two models (JDM / U.S-Can) that would make repairs really difficult and just not worth considering picking up a JDM model. I was thinking of a 95 JDM Model and I believe there is a 95 US model so besides the right hand drive thing and everything that goes with that, I was wondering what other differences anyone has found. Is the body style the same? thx, Simon

Hey there. I'm feeling extremely ripped off right now and need a little clarity / words of advice before I approach said mechanic. I had the repair done right now and I'm thinking that maybe it all wasn't warranted. He bought: 1) two heads for $50 (Can.) each, 2) a short block for $250 (which I'm really wondering about because he said earlier (as I just remembered) that he got two old engines (one that the short block is from) from this other guy for $100 (so should I have just paid $50 for the short block as it was from one of the engines?) 3) Main Bearing Set $50 Can 4) Piston Ring Set $60 Can 5) Rod Bearings $40 6) Reconditioning Cylinder Head $170 (do the new heads need reconditioning to match the requirement of the fit for a Subaru?) 7) New Gasket setup $90 (which I assume is normal for a Blown Headgasket) Now he bought these and gave me the receipts for them. He charged me 4hrs @ $40 / hr which I think is pretty good so that kind of makes me curious about my own worries. He mentioned that the car was pretty noisy (which it was in that diesel sounding way) so is that a good indication that the bearing are gone? -Why didn't we use the short block off my own car? Is that a possible victim in a blown gasket or similar? I just feel like I handed out my old engine and didnt' get credit for anything that might have still been good, paid $250 for another short block, 2 new heads, all new bearings and ended up with a $900 bill. The car was noisy but very driveable when I brought it in. Something just seems weird. With the car being that noisy, I assume a gasket blew, got rad fluid in the bearings, skrewing them up, but two new heads? new short block? I feel like going there and asking for my old engine back or asking something for it as he's probably going to rebuild it with new parts and resell it for a good price. Am I being unreasonable by wanting something for the old engine as I paid $250 for another short block off another $50 engine? Hmmmm Simon

When the head gasket goes, what do you need to replace / fix? I'm experiencing leaking and just replaced the waterpump and now getting coolant out of the tailpipe so I'm thinking headgasket. How complicated can this get? thx, Simon

Cool. I'm looking to lift my 89 GL10. Any advice/suggestions as to brands of lift kits? simon

I was just pulling up figures from http://www.cars101.com/oldsubaru.html for the hp info

Ahh, gotcha, yah, I want to go from 89 Turbo (I think mpfi) AWD and wanting to pretty much switch over to similar in the XT format so you're answer pretty much helps me out. Wasn't sure if there is some weird sensor issue or other thx again for your thinking, Simon

Well, this is my totally unmechanical point of view. I blew my engine and requiring a new one. I noticed that the performance for the GL10 is 115hp or so and the XT was 13? something and since I'm doing the engine switch, I thought "what the hay" then I can mod the XT engine. Seems like a logical switch, but, like I said, from a totally unmechanical point of view. simon, the unmechanic ps what specificities do you require. What aspects of fuel systems and xmissions (manual btw) do you need? thx for your thinking,

Just a curiousity. No doubt some adaptations required. Simon

I'm interested in importing a 95 WRX from Japan and besides the usual right hand side steering issue, does anyone know if there are any other differences. If they are small things, I can always order them from Europe or Japan and it won't cost too much but I'm just thinking of big things. Anyhoo, thx in advance for any thoughts, simon james

Yah, I'm going up for a job interview at a heliskiing lodge in Northern B.C. and can't wait to kick in the 4whdr and do some drivin'. The lodge is at the end of a long dirt road so "yay" say I, I say "yay". Simon

Well, if you can get boost in neutral, that'd be cool as I'm trying to deal with a hesitation during boost. I was hoping to get fuel pressure readings but didn't think I could get the boost to kick in neutral so I could get readings. simon

Yah, and it's really annoying going up a hill. Hmmmm, Gas tank. Will look into, thx. Simon

Hey there. I have an 89 Subaru GL10 Turbo and we may be experiencing the same thing. Pretty much right after the turbo kicks in, I start experiencing quick hesitation (cutting out) about every 1/2 second or so and we've been chasing it for sometime now. Tried 94 octane, new coil, relay for abetter spark, K&N filter, TPS change, new plugs/line, fuel filter, added muffler as it was straight pipe before, changed the ECU. I think we're still thinking Knock Sensor as the engine is quite noisy and could be setting it off when the Turbo kicks in or some fuel injection issue. The pressure is good on idle but may change during Boost. So, in short, maybe Knock Sensor, Fuel injector? If anyone figures this out, let me know. My engine's getting near the end of it's life so I think I'm going to drive it till it dies, then put another engine in. We have a "dying, noisy engine"/knock sensor theory. Simon

Mmm, that may be a good thing as I think I have a 2wd axel on there currently (if there is such a thing). I'm finding out tomorrow. simon

Okee dokee pokees. Thanks for your belt tightening advice. I was wondering why my pants wouldn't stay up. simon :-)

I have an 89 GL10 Turbo AWD and I just got a tear in the left front CV boot and now experiencing squeeling when I fully turn to the left and right (separately). Anyone have an idea what might be causing this? Just started to occur. Not sure if the CV boot and squeeling is related or not. The squealing lasts for 4 or 5 seconds then goes away. thx, simon

Yah, it is for my 89 GL10 so that sounds right. Thanks for your help. simon

Okee, so arrow up then. thx, simon

This is how litle I know about engines. I took out my panel filter to clean it and the filter has an arrow indicating that it needs to go in in the direction of airflow, so would the filter go in with arrow up or down? thx, Simon

Yah, I was experiencing the same thing with the waterpump with my 89 GL10 at 200,000 so I replaced it as it was the issue. Simon