Tiny Clark

My brother has that type of expandable filter wrench, and it works pretty good. Since I use latex exam gloves, mine come off by hand, because like some of the other posts, I don't overtighten 'em.

Before you spend any money at the dealership or AAMCO, go to this site and check on a local tranny shop that is a member of ATRA. I have been ripped off by "the chain stores" twice, and won't ever go back to one. It won't cost anything to get an estimate or two, and may save you hundreds. http://www.atra-gears.com/

Why not take them to a machine shop and have them pressed out in a couple of minutes Tiny

I'm pretty sure it uses two sensors to keep the fule averaged out when in turns. Not sure, since I don't have my account at alldata anymore. Hook it up and see what happens.

The one I rented must have had a 2.5, being new. Must be the gearing in the auto tranny that just plain sucks. Either way, the car seemd to lack torque and horses.

Don't rule out the dimmer module. Try to find one at a junk yard.

How about pulling up the hand brake, then pulling your foot off the brake?

I’m looking at my dimmer wiring diagram for my ’96 Legacy. It shows the following connected to it: Fog light sw TCS sw Hazard sw Cruise Cont sw Defogger sw Glove Box Ash Tray CD and Radio Combination Meter (Inst Panel) You may have more It could be that any one of the wires going to these things is pinched somewhere. It wouldn’t cost you anything to start looking around in these areas. It also could be the lighting control module itself. I would guess it is one of the many boxes located under the lower panel on the dash below the steering column. There are quite a few things attached to that, and I don’t know what all of them do. The light-dimming system must be controlled by some sort of solid-state FM (frikkin’ magic) circuitry in that module. The dial on your light stick just varies the resistance to that circuit. What happens if you turn the lights as low as possible, or off? This would draw less current out of the box, and should keep the fuse from blowing (Maybe). If it still blows, my money is on the module itself, or the wires going to it. Oh yea, exactly what fuse blows, No. 9?

Don't know why it worked for a while after the stalk replacement. Maybe they moved it a bit when they took apart the steering wheel housing. Might be worth the effort to have the instrument panel removed and check the the wiring behind it. Read the wire that supplies that dimming light voltage to the panel with the fuse removed. It should be an open. Physically check that wire as well.

Whatever you do if you paint it yourself, use some wet & dry sanding cloth, wet, to rough up the surface! Ouch, didn't realize that rhino stuff was that much! I painted hammerite over an old rusty trailer frame, didn't even clean it up, and it never chipped, peeled, or rusted thru.

Heck, get an estimate on having Rhino lining spayed on. Won't cost anything to get a price.

It's best to douch everything with isopropyl alcohol (90 sum odd percent) instead of rubbing alcohol. A mil spec coke proof radio wouldn't fit into the interior of your vehicle. You would need something at least the size of a Bradley Fighting Vehicle to fit that kind of radio in. Of course, one benefit from this would be the reduction of the chance that you'll be the victim of a road-rage incident.

When the fuse blows, what exactly do you lose? Do all the gauges go inop? Does anything else quit working? Is it just the instrument panel lights that go out? Maybe someone took the panel out at one time, and when they installed it, pinched the power wire against the surrounding metal. A big box of fuses is a lot cheaper that paying someone 80 bucks an hour to chase a problem like this. I've been chasing wiring problems on airplanes for 30 years, and your problem seems like it's going to be difficult to find.

My 98 O/B (Automatic), shudders whenever I'm stopped in drive with my foot on the brake. If it stops as soon as you lift your foot off the brake, you may have a vacuum leak.

What are you grounding to what?

Most gasolines have cleaning additives in them. I don't use cleaners at all, and my MPG rating has surprisingly gone from about 25 mpg when I bought the car in 1999 to about 25 mpg now.

Most gasolines have cleaning additives in them. I don't use cleaners at all, and my MPG rating has surprisingly gone from about 25 mpg when I bought the car in 1999 to about 25 mpg now.

Most gasolines have cleaning additives in them. I don't use cleaners at all, and my MPG rating has surprisingly gone from about 25 mpg when I bought the car in 1999 to about 25 mpg now.

Most gasolines have cleaning additives in them. I don't use cleaners at all, and my MPG rating has surprisingly gone from about 25 mpg when I bought the car in 1999 to about 25 mpg now.

Thanks Duane! No torque, no power... I think I had more power in my 86 Stanza in Alaska. I have a beemer over here which has a 2.0 liter engine in it, of course it's six banger , and it has the torque and power I can live with and still get 25 mpg. It must be the smog laws that kill the power output of this boxer engine.

I believe they come from Japan

Think out of the box... How about a web cam and a laptop??

I rented a 2003/4? outback in Atlanta last week, and was very disappointed in the lack of power. Seemed about the same as my '96 Legacy. I guess you have to go with the turbo if you want any kind of power.

The bungee cord is cheaper! Hope you get it fixed, as it's always best to have your balls ride in the groove!!

A bungee cord for cruising in 4th is about it. Usually, this is a tell-tale sign that means you need a new tranny.