Tiny Clark

Thanks all. Baffle plate, huh? Sounds like another name for an oil leak door. Well, hopefully I'll be able to sell it this way. I'll check the PCV today, but I don't think that will do it. I changed that not too many miles ago when my oil pump seal was leaking. Only take a few minutes to check it out though. As I said,the seal didn't make sense to me anyway, since it doesn't really seem to leak when sitting static, only when the oil is pumping.

Transmission out of the way doesn't make it an easy fix, at least for someone who can't lay on the ground too much anymore. I'll search again, but it looks like the only place it can be coming from is the bell housing, which means rear seal. I also want to say that you regulars in here have been great over the past years. I learned a lot about Subies, and I appreciate the help that I always received before.

My '96 has an oil leak in the rear of the engine somewhere. The cam cover on the passenger side is fine, and I can't see anything else. It is dripping right onto the exhaust manifold and stinks badly when stopped. It almost seems like a bad oil pressure sensor, as it only leaks when the engine is running. After shut down, I just get a few drips (residual?). It doesn't leak while static. I hadn't seen anything on this before, but then again, I wasn't looking. Are rear main seals a real problem? 146k miles and ready to sell. I really don't need it anymore in So. Georgia.

My wife's '96 was doing that same thing. When warm, step on gas to get it started. I have a reader, and it was a cam sensor.

Sorry, but I have to add this. I got the cam sensor a week ago, and of course, the check engine light is out in the wife's car, running perfectly.

When I got over here to Germany, I noticed my wife's Legacy would shut off. I have to cock it a bit sideways and hold it to keep it from shutting off.

If you can't afford to have it changed right now, it may last a bit longer. If you can swing a can/tube of grease and a can of carb cleaner. Clean it up as much as you can, get some grease in there, then take some nylon tie straps, cover the boot with a plastic garbage bag and zip tie it on at both ends and one in the middle. Make sure you wrap it up in the right direction so the end doesn't get caught in the draft. I did this on a Geo and it lasted 3 months.

Actually, it came back today anyway. Hopefully, it'll stay intermittent until the new one gets here next week. Nice thing Auto Zone does for military, free Priority postage overseas.

Wife's car wouldn't start today, did crank. She left it for 15 minutes, came back and it started up, but had the engine light. Read it for a P0340 tonight. Anyone had any luck with clearing a camshaft code just by reseating the connector? I already ordered one from Autozone, but I'm just curious.

He did put the 5MT in his first line, I missed it too.

Why don't you put a toggle switch next to the resistor in the engine bay?

That would be correct, I guess I should look first, then type. He could go into either circuit feeding the headlights, fuse 26 or 24. Thanks for clearing that up, Skip. I need a glass of wine now.

Yep, that would be it. You could always tie the black/yellow wire to the low beam wire, and it would work as it is supposed to. The small current draw on that line from the fog light switch bulbs and the relay would be minimal.

Maybe that pic was taken in Australia

Not even a chance, unless you give the prybars to a couple heavy duty weight lifters. Motorcycle tires, yes; car tires, no. Because of the tubeless design, they fit too tight. Not to mention you could seriously hurt yourself trying it.

Yo, what 99 said, and this circuit was very close to ground since it had all your light bulb filaments added to the radio. Glad you got it solved, it was easy fix, and you learned something. I've come to learn over the years when I ask some of the airmen if they've checked this or that... I will go back and check just to make sure if the problem even remotely points in that direction.

The yellow with light blue go to the low side of the lights, or ground. They supply the low for the edge lighting, the light to show the switch is on. Hook these to ground. The white supplies the ground to the relay, via the yellow with light blue wire when the switch is pushed. Hook this to the ground side of the relay coil. The white with yellow is for switch edge lighting. Hook this to the exterior lighting voltage so the switch lettering is lit when your headlights are on. The black and yellow is your 12 volts to turn the light on in the switch to show it's on. This can come from any 12 volt source that's present with the ingnition on.

127,000 miles and still good.

OOPS, yea, "I" previously stated, sorry 15 AMP. Looking at a ILS/ADI deflection and flag problem all damn day and have nothing but numbers in my head. I tried to do as much as I could at lunch. If you do try to get to that connector, do yourself a favor and take your driver's seat out so you can lay on your back to make it easier to get to everything. You could try to get to the original wiring and fix it, but that may be more trouble than it's worth. Like I said, you can try it with a jumper first to make sure the fuse doesn't blow. You really can't read the blue/red wire to ground and check for a short, since the readings thru all the bulbs in parallel will basically look like a short.

It’s no wonder your lights are out as well, they use the same fuse (No. 25) as the radio, but I have no idea where they are spliced together. They may have two wires coming off terminal 15 at the B62 connector. Given the fact that B62 (see attachment) would be a monster to visually locate, let alone trying to get to it with two hands, here’s what I would do… If you want to test this first, you can use a jumper cable and connect it the + side of the battery. Put your 25 amp fuse in the other end and touch that to the blue/red wire at the radio connector. Your interior lights should come on. Go to a parts store and get a fuse holder that is wired up for installation. Of course, use a 25 amp fuse in it. You can tie into the inside or engine compartment fuse panel on the battery supply side of any decent size fuse that has 12 volts on it all the time. Tie the other end to that wire you don’t have voltage on. That should get you power to the radio and the interior lights.

I wish I had your diagrams, as I could probably help you quite a bit, since I troubleshoot aircraft wiring problems for a living. I have a wiring diagram and I don't even know what model it is, someone had a link to it at one time. Mine does show a B62 as a Super Multiple Junction and it labels it as a 66 pin connector way up in the dash. I doubt you’ll be able to get to it very easily. Sometimes, you can tell the function of the stereo power wires by their physical size, or gauge. My Yellow wire shows it coming from ACCY power, switched on with the key. That would be main power for the radio and would be fairly robust. The wire for memory power, LR (Blue with Red stripe) probably isn’t be very big, as there is little current draw. Let me know if this isn’t the case. I would suggest running a wire that has power all the time and splicing it in to the wire with no power. Where does that 3rd wire from FB12 go to on your diagram? If your Blue/red wire is not a large gauge, you could probably tap off of that one since it’s hot all the time as well. Feel free to email me at bit73burger@yahoo.com From my diagram: 2. Connector indications - Female connectors are shown as a box constructed of a single continuous line. Male connectors are shown as a box constructed of a continuous double line. - Connector boxes are divided into smaller boxes. The number of smaller boxes corresponds to the number of connector terminals. The numerical characters inside the smaller boxes indicate terminal position. The F designates a Front connector, the 45 number of pins as mark said, so maybe B62 has a few connectors plugged into it, which would make it a SMJ. Mark, could you send me your diagram, it is probably closer to my 96 that the one I have.

They should have one, but they may only have a 470, which should suffice.

If it's a fairly low pitch sound, could be the wheel bearing. Jack it up and rotate each wheel. Also check for no play on them at all.

I'm curious too, how did you check the compression with the belt broken?

I don't understand the affection to the stock radio. I'd replace the head unit with a CD Receiver that has an Aux jack on the front panel for an MP3 player, and maybe SAT radio ready.