Tiny Clark

I've taken many fan speed switches apart, and usually what goes wrong is the grease dries up and the contacts don't mate up properly. It needs to be cleaned thoroughly and relubed.

Thought it hooked underneath, guess not. http://www.stylinconcepts.com/parts.aspx?partfamilyid=984

I would change the oil in that thing before I started it up with the new injector.

There's a company that sells a bracket that attaches under the car (I think) and will hold two fog driving lamps as well. I don't have the link at home, so can't get it until tomorrow.

I have a 400 watt AC inverter that can plug into my lighter, but it won't put out a lot of power that way. It must be hooked up to the battery for any real current draw. Works good with a laptop in the lighter jack. They are around 40 bucks.

Actually, you can do whatever you want, it's your car. Will you get better gas mileage? Coast it for a month, then leave it in gear and report back to us. I doubt either way will make much difference. As far as any emergency situation out in the middle of bum$#%@, it's take less than half a sec to get it into gear, so don't worry about it.

That was your best bet. Many factory stereos are garbage.

Unless you know something about electronics, I wouldn't attempt it. If you have a single CDplayer, consider buying a new one with an aux jack on it. You could also pull the antenna cable out of your radio, find another cable to plug in, then tape about 2' of the inner conductor of the other end on the itrip unit, it will help get the signal to the radio and cut down on other incoming signals. It will screw up your ability to pick up some of the radio stations tho.

Just curious, how many people have had the rear driver's side go bad, compared to the passenger side? I lost mine on the driver's side.

Yes, take the car out of gear and let the clutch out. Leaving it in does two things; it causes the throw-out bearing to spin continuously and also assists in wearing out the fingers on the pressure plate just a bit. You could even tap the gas pedal and slide the shifter into neutral without the clutch. This takes just a bit of practice to learn how, but I do it all the time on my beemer.

I would steer clear of higher wattage bulbs.

Have you tried any halogen replacement bulbs?

I believe... You also have to insert the light spectrum frequency into the equation. Maybe that's why they appear brighter. I think one bulb life issue, at least in my wife's 96 Subie, is that it's easy to leave the headlights on since they turn off with the key, so they burn quite a bit more that other cars. I don't think that starting the car with them on is particularly good on them either. Later models with daytime running lights use a resistor to drop some of the voltage, helping extend bulb life.

I wouldn't increase the wattage. That would be almost 20% more current running thru the wire. There have been threads on the board by people who have had problems. If you do decide to, let me know and I'll bring the marshmallows.

The fuses supply voltage to both bright and dim lights. The lamps are turned on by a ground being supplied to them thru the combination switch. At least, that's what is shown in diagram I have. If you have daytime runnng lights, then it's a bit different.

Maybe if it was made like a real hummer, but I bet it's a real piece of crap quality wise.

If you had a bunch of bolts and nuts lying around, you could make one to tighten the thing up. OR at the very least, you'd be able to figure out the size.

That's probably what was wrong with the lighter in the Bluesmobile.

2 bad batteries, I kinda doubt it. You could swap batteries with someone to see if your new one operates OK in their car. You could also do this after you check the ground and you don't have a voltmeter: Get the battery charged up, then start the car with the negative terminal nut loose. Turn on the headlights and turn the heater fan on high. Remove the ground terminal and slowly move the throttle linkage thru it's range to around 3,500 rpm's. If it keeps running with no problem, the alternator should be OK. If not, it's bad. Turn it off, then replace the ground terminal. You could also have something draining the battery, but if you run it everyday, then that shouldn't be a problem.

You said the injectors were pulsing, but are you sure fuel is getting to the cylinders? Try some starting fluid if you haven't, just remove the filter and spray it in to the duct while someone cranks it. If that doesn't fire, then cam timing must be way off of that sensor is probably no good. I would think the ignition module is working if you have spark.

There should be a plug under the driver's seat you can disconnect and jumper, though I'm not sure if it uses an open or a short to turn on the beeping. The wires will be coming from the seat belt lock. Driving at all without a belt is not too smart.

That was my thought Skip, and it should be forming a wet spot under the car, but it puzzles me why he can't smell the antifreeze. You could dump the cheapest bottle of colonge you can find into the radiator. If the core leaks, you will definitely smell it.

If your heater core is leaking, you will have what feels like an oily substance on your winshield, and you can usually smell it.

As far as resetting the tensioner: Very slowly crank it in using a vise. Take your time so you don't screw the thing up, just a bit at a time. Then get the holes lined up and insert a nail or allen wrench inot it to hold it. Torque would probably be the same as earlier models, as it's more then likely the same size bolt.

Cracking a rear window will help with the fog, as it's interior moisture from you own body that does it. Turn on the A/C if you have it. Always use outside air, don't recycle the stuff inside. I've heard Subies recirculate air when the windshield deforst mode is selected. You can always do the floor/windshield heatsetting and turn the A/C on.