Tiny Clark

There is a solenoid tied to the brake pedal that prevents shifting into any gear unless you have the brake depressed. You should hear and feel a fairly loud click by the shift lever when you press the pedal. If you do not, the switch could on the pedal could be bad, it could be disconnected for some reason, or need adjustment? There may be a relay, not sure. I have never had to do this, but I think you can pry the gear select panel up and use a screw driver to bypass the solenoid, allowing you to shift.

Cars with anti-locks brakes draw power for that system when the brakes are applied. Ever notice how your lights dim when the system chatters the brakes? The reason the brake idiot light comes on when the alternator isn't putting out is because the battery voltage has dropped below about 10.5 volts. It's nothing to worry about when sitting at idle.

The only thing left is a wire.

Insure that the rubbers bellows inside the fluid tank didn't balloon out, or it will push the low level switch down.

We re-use bolts all the time on the C130 to hold major sections together, i.e. fuselage to the nose or tail section. We worry more about the lock-nut. Some bolts go thru an NDI check, but our torque values are significantly higher than auto cylinder head bolts. IMO, reuse 'em.

I run it for 9-10k miles, and change the filter every 3,000. In other words, 3 filters for every oil change.

I don't think I'd go that far, but if you do, the system is self-bleeding; just a few full turns to the right and left and all the air should be gone. I hate taking connections and plugs loose that aren't leaking...

It's always wise to change the fluid out periodically. This can be done by emptying the majority of it with a cheap plastic turkey baster. Then just refill with fresh fluid. You won't get it all out, but you will prevent damage to your R&P system.

The CEL light is the one that flashes

I plugged my food vacuum seal unit into the cigarette lighter adapter, and it just wouldn't work that way. I had to use the the large wires connected to the battery. The sealer won't run off of 50 Hz over here either. Anywho, it didn't blow any fuses, it's just that the thin wire for the adapter wouldn't handle the load, so there's protection in itself.

sean, Legacy777, Josh, has posted directions on here, not sure where, as I've never needed them and have also slept since then...

If their reader didn't fit, you have OBDI, simple as that. You'll have to use the blinking CEL method.

Easy revenue for local garages...

If I geared the the rear in our 2.2 '96 so the rpm's would be lower, I'd have to shift the auto tranny into 2nd to get up a hill! Hell, it's bad enough the way it is...

Hah, see, if you'd quit mizzpelling color, you could figure it outm y northern native.

Dosn't make any difference to me what side the potential is on, I just fix the $tuff that engineers design, it keeps me in a job...

I digress...

OK, I'm wrong again, I though the 500 watts was output power of the inverter.

Unfortunately, I'm not real familiar with the fuel injection system, or stereo for that matter, and where the o-rings would come into play. When we have a problem on one of our C130's, my initial check is to find out what was done last to the system that's malfunctioning. In your case, the problem didn't exist until you cleaned the injectors. So I have to put my money on the fact that one or more were damaged. I had a problem with a Ford Toreass head gasket, and the water ruined one of the injectors. The parts dept gave me a new one, but it wasn't exactly the right one and it still ran crappy until I installed the right one. The spark plugs should be blackened on the cylinders being affected.

You'll certainly protect your wiring with a 30 amp fuse. I would be surprised if the headlights work with just a 30 amp'er in there, if it's the main link.

OK, I'll admit it, you can't fry speakers with underrated amps, clipping isn't any sort of DC, and a coil won't try to hold itself in a magnetic field at an almost constant voltage level. I did do all that audio stuff in the late 70's, which is kind of clouded (cough, cough) anyway, so I'm probably mistaken.

If the inverter is rated at 500W, you aren't pulling 500W or 40 amps from the 12 volt source. You are supplying >4 amps of 115V power, but not if you use the cigarette lighter adaptor. I run a 400 Watt all the time on my '96 for the laptop and 12 Volt cooler box, there is no problem.

Sorry, I still disagree with you. Clipping, when it gets to a certain point is not a square wave, it's almost getting to the point of a DC voltage. This makes the speaker work almost like a solenoid, pulling it in one direction, and then it becomes as you said, a fuse. I can only go by what I have done and seen others do, and this is my practical testing-based opinion, and of course, everyone has their own, and we know what those are like... Clipping is also bad on crossover networks, moreover the type found in home two or three way speakers. As I eluded to in the beginning, I don't waste money on car audio, so I don't have these sorts of problems.

IMO, the biggest concern is stopping whatever you are towing, not actually pulling it.

It's called a fusible link. It prevents serious damage to the car wiring. Most parts store should have one, or at least something than can be used as a temp fix.