Tiny Clark

I had a broken hash pipe in the 70's that caused my gas mileage to go down, but that was because I'd pull into a gas station, reset the odometer and leave, forgetting to fill up.

I always thought a little more in the fronts (2lbs), due to added weight of the engine and tranny.

There are two things that you can probably count on. There is a relay that controls the voltage to the window, and there is a connector that you can disconnect to check voltages. You'll probably have to find the wires coming from the window to be able to solve this probem. The window may read a couple hundred ohms, not sure, but aircraft windows work the same way, using a thermal film.

Call a few local muffler shops in your area and get some quotes.

Probably the best thing to do in this situation is just replace the belt(s), then you won't have to worry about them.

I don't think they could get that answer past the NTSB. I smell something, and I'm not standing out on the Texas open range.

You should have 12 volts between the wires that connect to the grid. If not, maybe the relay is bad. Not sure of it's location.

I know, my mom owns one.

I'll have to check what I am running. They were on the car when I bought it in 2000 in Alaska. I used them for that winter, then pulled out the studs when I came over here to Germany in 2001. I've used them every winter for about 5 months at a whack, and they still have tons of tread left on them, maybe another 5 years worth. BF Goodrich Winter Slalom, probably quit making them years ago. They'll probably dry rot before the tread is worn out!!

Does the rear wiper have the same setup as the fronts, with the non-splined shaft? My wife has the car, so I can't check it, but maybe the hold-down nut came loose.

Thanks Noah. Maybe it works well on jeeps because the intake system wasn't designed properly to begin with. "Hell, it worked on the Neon, it outta work on this!"

Ranger, those almost look like all seasons and not snow tires. Super subbie's look more like a dedicated snow tire, as the more space you have between the tread, the less tread you have, which results in more pounds per square inch in weight on the road surface. The more weight per square inch, the more friction.

Just use the cow stomach magnets on the fuel line instead; they will align the molecules so it burns more efficiently...

Are you absolutely positive the stat is in the right way? I don't know anything about the chemical reaction of the two different antifreeze solutions, bit I seriously doubt that mixing them will cause any kind of gelling. With the heater core disconnected, you could flush it with a garden hose. But why bother if it leaks and you need a new one. You can run without the thermostat to see if the system is flowing and cooling the engine. It shouldn't heat up as much as usual, in theory.

There is a single speaker back there? Must be the center speaker for a surround sound setup, I guess. You can ohm it out at the solder connections. It should read about 4 - 8 Ohms. You may be able to hear the speaker scratching when touching the leads to it, if you are in a quiet area. If it's good, then maybe the output for it from the amp is bad.

Only guessing her, but I would think that there is a relay involved as well. Switches just can't normally handle the amp draw of a heater circuit.

This is kinda like one of those weird wiring problems we experience on our C130's from time to time, very strange, but there has to be a simple (or not-so-simple, depends on how you look at it) answer. It's usually my job to find it, and I usually bat around .995. Of course, when you've been doing it for over 30 years , it helps...

Check for a good ground on both the turn signal and brake light on the respective connectors. Since you fiddled with the connector back there, I would take a good look around that area. If you take the brake bulb out, what does it do?

Did this start happening after a snow? Are you sure snow and ice didn't get built up in the clutch linkage somewhere and isn't letting is release all the way? Just thought I'd throw in a glimmer of hope...

If you've driven around for a bit, yes, radiator should be hot. Was the thermostat changed with a new one from Subie? Sounds like the water isn't circulating to me. You can take off the bottom hose of the radiator, plug the hole or cover with you hand until the radiator is filled, then pull the plug. The water should pretty much gush out. You can also remove the thermostat and see how she does. It probably won't run to nomal temp though.

Wouldn't it be nice to have a set of rails that are flat... Oh wait, I do, made them outta oak. What were those engineers thinking.

Just a quesion or two, as I've never done this myself. How are you putting the new fluid in? I'm not sure it it's healthy to let it pour out of the pressure hose and not have any coming in the return line. Is a tranny flush that expensive? Seems like a lot of work and mess if it doesn't cost that much. You could always drain your pan, refill it, then repeat the procedure the next week, and once more if you want. If you are thinking all the old fluid will be replaced in the torque converter, I don't believe it will be, doing a flush as you are suggesting.

Ask Santa for a new CD player.

6061 T-6 is good. But if you aren't doing a whole lot of other things to your car like the stuff listed on gary's machine, then you're just wasting your money and time IMO.

You should have about a half an inch of play before you feel the pedal start to engage the clutch.