Tiny Clark

Quit worrying and drive it, it will be fine.

Using copper on aluminum is an aerospace vehicle no-no.

Do you use the Outback to hunt down King Crabs?

Have it aligned before jumping to conkluzions.

No.

That's why there is a drain plug, so you don't have to EFF with the pan.

BULLLSHHHHITTTT! Do whatever you want. Modern engines use tapered rings, so break-in is not an issue. So you spend 5 to 10 bucks between oil changes! Wow, that's a six-pack of a good locally brewed beer!!!

http://www.visegrips.com just kidding... pull the hell out of it

Are you sure it isn't the "low fluid" warning light? I know, stupid question...

Rub some brake fluid on them.

Try the Paris Chilton, it goes every which way, and loose!!!

It's close to the firewall on the passenger side of the engine bay.

Subies use a hydraulic tensioner. If it is a son-of-a-beast to compress, it's still good.

I think one of the major problems of a small head gasket leak is that if you do something you think will fix it, i.e. thermostat, you fill the car back up with coolant/water and everything works fine until you loose enough water for it to start heating up again. I think if you added coolant on a regualr basis, you could run it for a while with little problem. Too bad small leaks turn into big ones...

I seriously doubt it.

Out of all the cars I've owned with A/T, I can count the number of times I've used the parking brake on one hand.

Better 2 be loose than 2 tight.

That's why auto tx's are good in the city. Move, I hate frikkin' traffic!!

At least ya figgered it out.. gitter done!!!

No more than a few seconds, especially if you fill the filter first. This doesn't sound good. Are you sure you didn't block an channel on reassembly?

What about defrost mode? Does it put out cold air at the windshield vent. Maybe the air deflector door is screwed up...

This goes back to the point that the oil companies and car manufacturers are always looking for ways to improve products and reduce waste. They aren't always out to get us...

Make sure the rubbing alcohol is a high percentage rating. Some off the shelf stuff is about 70%, the other part being water.

Just curious, but what turns on the A/C? It seems to me it could easily be bypassed, but I have no diagram. A switch in parallel with whatever turns it on now should work.

If it meets the current API standards and you change it regularly, then whatever you choose should be OK. I use Castrol myself. Or, you could go check out bobistheoilgod.com, or whatever it is, and see what he recommends.