Tiny Clark

I'm not getting too involved in this subject, except to say that if tires don't insulate the car from ground, then why don't a lot of airplanes get hit when they are parked at airports. That's a huge metal box. It may be possible this subie had a grounding strip attached to it, reducing the chance of static shock in the dry Utah climate. If it did, then the car would be a great lightning rod.

I'm surprised it worked in the start position then.

My vote's for getting it lying down on my back... so to speak.

Mine did the same thing. Check to see if your car is covered by a service bulletin to replace the alternator for free. My '96 wagon was.

So you're on the shoulder of a road with the hood up, the back open, and someone stops and asks "Are you having problems?" Here's your sign...

I believe the brake light comes on because of the power requirements of the ABS system. I got a brake light on my Subie and Beemer when the alternators went Tango Uniform.

Ditto, auto locks suck. If I wanted to lock the doors, then I would.

Doesn't she use the lower gears to keep the speed down the hills at a slower pace?

I would drill through the top or side of the roof rack myself, then you can plug the holes later.

I suggested the manual tranny for better MPG and all around better performance. My wife's Legacy is an auto, never had a problem with it. I have a 5 speed in my beemer.

Remove the muffler and run straight pipe, you won't notice the drone, whether it's b flat or b sharp...

Knowing what I know, which I've forgotten most of already, I would try to find a 2.2 with a manual transmission.

time for a cup of tea ! [ well I am english and you need to distance yourself from the problem to help the brain] regards paul I do fancy a cup of tea, me wife's mum is from Bury St Edmunds, but I tend to use cold beer to distance meself from a problem! Jolly good your problem is solved.

krizzo, Aluminum will get chalky white as it corrodes, unlike steel which will turn the reddish color due to the iron content.

You can also leave the the thermostat out and check the system, and it will usually run cooler than normal. Make sure you do burp it. If it does work, I would have to say the pump is fine.

Sorry, can't say for sure LRN, but I would be very surprised if the OEM system is stainless.

You could go with a 195/65 14. That'll be closer to original tire circumference, if it matters.

If you are talking about the main fan relay in the fuse box at the upper part of your diagram, it looks to me like it gets the ground from the pressure switch. The only pressure switch I know of is in the A/C system. Unless they are calling the A/C on switch a pressure switch. Cougar, I can't figure out what the A/C short connector is for either, maybe testing? Doesn't make any sense anyway, since those two lines are shown connected together down below. Zeky, the diode just isolates the ACC hot power and the power from fuse 13, and would affect the sub fan. I hate subie diagrams.

Should be steel. Aluminum won't hold up.

Why don't you run the scenario by a few local exhaust shops in your yellow page listings? You might even try, dare I say it, Mid**..., no sorry, I can't.

Man, If I had a fairly high mileage vehicle, I wouldn't go to the trouble to pull it out just to test it. I would R square it with a new one.

That'd probably be a good start.

I guess that's two things women can't take away from us, shifting a manual tranny (the mechanical one, not the cross-dressing type), and being able to pee where ever we want!

Sorry guys, I should have digressed, but isn't this topic about out of pages? I always try to take life in stride and throw a little levity into its ups and downs. You'll have to excuse me when I verbalize the same way on this board.

I started with the car on ramps, as soon as I spotted that bottom bolt before I got going on the job. Sometimes it pays being on the bottom!