Tiny Clark

I would also check into having a welder look at it. That engine may last for many more years.

In my 96 Leg, I loosened the two bolts that hold the steering column in place until they were just about all the way out. The gives enough clearance to wrestle the cluster out of there after you remove the screws. As cougar said, I would make sure it's the gauge first tho!

Cool, glad you got it done so quickly. Was the throttle already set up for the cable?

Keep in mind that an LED doesn't work the same as a light bulb. It may not come on until the dimmer is set to a certain point and the diode junction is "energized", and I don't believe you'll see much dimming action once it is on. If you want to use the dimmer, it's my opinion that you'll have to replace the LED circuit with a 12 volt peanut bulb of some type from Radio Shack. Does the ligher receptacle have a light ring around it that dims? That may be the easiest place to tap into. There should only be a ground, 12 volts for the lighter, and the lighting wire.

No matter how bad your rust may be, you don't want to be on the wrong side of our smart weapons. Guess we'll have to stick with a bigger breaker bar and GRRRRR-illa warfare.

The resistance of the plugs themselves will be completely open.

Maybe everything was perfect. The bumber you hit compressed your own bumber and it touched off the airbags... Hard to say. Is the lawyer more expensive than having the airbags refilled?

Some of the auto parts retail stores use to sell coil spring helpers. Basically, a piece of rubber that went between the coils. Maybe these would help. A metals tech guy (welder) can also heat the springs up to make them ride higher.

I went to a BMW brake service training class in Seattle, and the guy saw us thru how bad the fluid gets in the power steering system. Good idea to stay on top of it.

Good deal Walker, rock on!

Justa question, have you changed out the power steering fluid yet? If not, just get a cheap turkey baster and suck out as much as possible, then refill with correct fluid.

This torque bind is a crazy and temperamental little vice. I have a set of winter tires I put on my Legacy, and didn't really pay attention to the tread depth on them. After I changed them this past winter, I heard a ticking sound, especially when stopping and turning to the right. I thought I had screwed up or missed something during the tire swapover (yea, fat chance of that happening:)). After I looked at the tires, I noticed a very slight difference in wear between the two front tires. I swapped the front and rear passenger tires and voila, no clicking!

Sorry I don't have the wiring data for that car. I will say this, IMO, this guy ripped you off. Or maybe you shouldn't have bought a car with known problems. Sometmes, if the price is too right, you have to second guess it. Make sure your friend checks all the fuses, maybe there is one blown.

oops, stumbled over the AC compressor and other goodies! Josh is probably right on the money. I'd bet one of his paychecks on it.

Why can't you just put a small piece of wood on the bathroom scale and tip the engine up on it, keeping it balanced. I can't see it weighing more than 200lbs.

If the seller drilled into the crankcase, then he should keep the car and use it for a planter.

Maybe the trumpet would make a "ricey sound" if you stuck it up your own arse. Setright is talking about removing the snorkel in the right fender.

Wouldn't a spray carb cleaner be good for this? I know a pencil eraser will work, as we used those on circuit card connectors, but always followed up with freon, which, of course, isn't allowed anymore.

Resistance will probably be 10 to 20 K Ohms. As long as the four wires are relatively close to each other, no problem.

When the alternator in my 96 went bad, it would charge at certain RPM's only. Don't forget, the drain on a battery is huge on newer cars with just the engine running, i.e. fuel pump, injectors, ECU, ignition, abs, etc... Autozone, Advanced, or some other parts store may check the alt output for free. If there is any drain on the battery with the key off, you can check that with a stop/turn/parking lamp. Just pull off one of the battery leads, put the metal casing of the lamp on the battery terminal, and touch the battery lead to the lamp connection bead. If you get a decent glow, you may have a problem. Forget the fuel filter, it isn't causing this problem.

Thanks nomad. Wasn't sure if I could trust that diagram, and can't even remember where I got it.

Not to mention, quite messy!

You can tell them that if it is common, then there is a major problem, and you would like some new glass.

The worst thing about cruise controls is people don't speed up to pass a car on the interstate if someone is behind them travelling at a faster rate. Maybe they forget they can still use that skinny pedal on the right with CC engaged. The sign in most states that says "Slower Traffic Keep Right" is a law, not just a suggestion. They will ticket you on the autobahn for impeding traffic.

I am looking at the only schematic I have of the fuel gauge system. It shows the two sensors are in series with each other, comprising of variable resistors. This resistance is fed into a CPU located in the instrument cluster. It shows the outputs of the CPU going to the light and gauge. Maybe once the resistance reaches zero, or very close to it, the light is supposed to come on. Doesn't make sense to me doing it this way, but I run into this all the time on our airplanes. Maybe someone can verify that fact that there are only two wires coming off the sensors. If not, I don't know where the hell they got this diagram from.