Tiny Clark

Shell gasoline? Hmmmm, do they use water as an additive? Mufflers usually go first due to condensation. I just out a new one on my 92 beemer, which is the first replacment.

The rotors can warp from stress, if the wheel nuts are too tight when they get hot, for one thing.

I've got a 96 that is still good. IT was in Alaska and now in Germany, where they love to use deicing substances.

Man, I'm glad I don't have to wear a suit...

I've heard both rotation theories zooma. The never-crossed one came out with the influx of the radial tire. But I've also heard it doesn't matter. I have two sets of tires and don't mark them at all. I've never had any problems, and I'm not sure if they get run the other direction or not. I also don't buy the most expensive tire either. As far as plugging, I've been doing this for nail holes for at least 10 years, and never had a plug fail, no matter the position, and I usually run at 85-90 on the autobahn.

I would shy away from copper grease, especially with aluminum wheels, because of corrosion problems from dissimilar metals. High temp grease is just fine.

Not sure on subies, but some brake light switches are adjustable. If not, sounds like the shaft nut came loose on the switch. Poke you head under there and take a look. Someone else may know it there are two switches, one for brake lights and one for cruise control, I certainly don't.

I have done this with much success, both for the axle and for just getting a stubborn wheel off to swap tires. Put the axle nut back on and leave it about a thread loose. Then take a short jaunt down the road doing a NASCAR warm-up-the-tires-zig-zag-move. It should pop loose with the weight of the car moving against it, a hell of a lot more that any whacker you could hit it with. Same holds true for the lug nuts if the wheel is stuck to the outside of the hub. I'm not saying drive to the supermarket or anything; of course, if you do need beer and pizza...

Most Volvo mechanics have boat payments to make!

Doing it yourself would be the novel approach.

Although 48 degrees year 'round would be OK.

You could always swap two plug wires around before you go spending more money. Just curious, do any other misfire codes come up besides 4? It seems to be a very popular number. Given that the engine uses one coil pack, I have a hard time believing the ECU can tell if one particular cylinder is misfiring, but stranger things have happened. I still miss setting the dwell for the points gap... :-\

If it's running good, leave 'em alone. I don't think the resistance is that far off to cause a problem. The variance in resistance readings is directly related to the length of the cable. Usually, resistance of a wire will not decrease, only increase.

I don't post this in jest... Is the heat on when you smell this, I have to assume so, since it's winter time. Do you have kids? Is it possible some crayons were deposited into the heat/defrost vent holes? They are always trying to fit the round peg in the square hole...

I believe the resistance is to keep EMI in check. The most that could happen is that you'll hear stratic on your AM radio...

That was my question, how did you arrive at the rear end?

One more thing to check, but it should be OK... Make sure your bottom hose is firm. If it is soft, the vacuum caused by the water pump at highway speed can cause the hose to collapse, preventing proper flow.

Sorry, but I consider it overdrive with less than a 1:1 ratio. The fact that it doesn't have a button for O/D like my son's Camry is irrelevant, IMO.

Does it work OK if you put it in third?

I shift mine into third while going DOWN into the small towns here in hilly Germany. Otherwise, it'd take riding the breaks all the way in. I also feel no reason to allow the car to shift into and out of overdrive (4th) unnecessarily when I'm driving under 40 or so.

We use it in the Air Force for AWaiting Parts.

The throw out bearing only spins when it is actuated by the clutch lever. Ususally, if the bearing is bad, it will make noise when the clutch depressed. If the cluth is depressed, you may try to give it some Prozac, but I digress... If the noise goes away with slight pedal pressure, you have another problem. Maybe the installation of the bearing wasn't done right, or as others have pointed out, the pilot bearing.

Timing belts are also called camshaft drive belts. You need to find out what belt was replaced.

As long as the ceramic is the same shape, regardless of being iridium or platinum, the plugs are in the correct temp range. http://www.sarehkala.net/Spark%20Plug%20Hot%20&%20Cold.htm Iridium and platinum are used for the electrode surfaces, which have little or nothing to do with heat range.

Unless you are doing a performance mod, I'd keep the same springs. No sense in wasting needless money.