Tiny Clark

Most plastic stuff on cars nowadays is ABS. You can get some ABS cement at your local Home center.

Danke, I'll rip it apart tonight!!

Anyone have problems with their rear hatch lock on a Legacy? Mine is a '96, and the solenoid sounds like it's popping when the driver's door lock switch is engaged and disengaged, but the damn door still won't open. Of course, this happens intermittently... Was wondering if something common breaks back there before I tear it apart. Tiny

If it has never been replaced, then do it. O2 sensors don't last forever.http://www.oxygensensors.com/ You can buy the 7/8" socket for it at Autozone, Advance, etc...

You should have a check engine light if you are running that rich. Could be a bad injector, O2 sensor...

Easy to drain with a turkey baster. Then refill and cycle steering wheel back and forth a few times.

I think I'll make smaller ones to fit inside the tailpipe, that way the swirling action will help pull the exhaust gases out of the cylinders. Hmmmm, $29.99 or so... Whadda sweet deal!!!!

I look at structure drawings and schematics every day on my computer, and I'd rather look at paper.

Doing the cloth on the interior roof may be risky. The heat and water might just screw up the adhesion on the material to what's underneath it, and that would suck.

Call a local auto machine shop and ask if the have a way to test theirs, or where they have them done. You might be able to just get it checked at 70 lbs for 5 bucks, or for free, who knows.

Can't speak for most European countries, but most German cars have a second detent on the turn signals to turn on the parking lights on one side, a requirement on many unlit streets. Actually, only the rear tail lamp comes on, and there is a small bulb in the front headlamp housing that illuminates.

You can drain it, make sure you measure how much came out, and refill it with that amount. Drive it for 500 miles or so, drain it again, then do it a third time. This will get plent of good fluid into the tranny and converter for less than $20. Or you can pay for the flush at a tranny shop. One thing I don't understand though is this: I have been told that fluid in the torque converter does not run through it unless the car is driven, so I don't know how much better a "professional" flush would be vs. draining a few times. I know tranny shops used to drill a small hole in the T.C.'s on chevy's to completely drain them when they had them removed during a tranny rebuild, then install a plug.

Someone chime in because I'm probably wrong, but I'm going with what most auto manufacturers are doing today, which is using solenoids to control all the gear changing. Don't know if your year Subie has a TCU. Sometimes I wish for the good old days when all that was used was vacuum, speed, and throttle pedal position for downshifting.

Have you checked the exhaust system? Make sure there are no dents. Usually, the sulphur smell is an indication the catalyctic converter is not working correctly. My father-in-law backed into a curb at the airport several years ago, and dented the tailpipe, he couldn't do over 40mph on the way home!

Add in a small bag of self lighting charcoal and few bic lighters on stuff to carry in the back in case of emergencies... I never experienced flat spots on tires in the Alaska cold. An engine block heater would be good. I tried the coolant hose type for my son's car, and it didn't work very well. You can also buy a plug-in battery warmer. Tiny

If you have a nice dry engine with no leaks, I would keep going with non-synthetic or the high mileage stuff. But do yourself a favor and buy a Fumoto valve @ http://www.fumotovalve.com/

Yea, most of the time, wedding vows don't include having to put up with a finding a stupid husband's body under the car, let alone one of you kids! The Air Force calls looking out for yourself and your equipment "Risk Assessment."

Does it drop into gear if you shift it manually? I shut my cruise off going up hills.

AT fluid runs into the radiator on most vehicles, including the Subies. It does not run throught the channels tho, it goes thru a small tank on the side or bottom of the radiator to allow for some cooling. This also gets the temp of the AT fluid to a better operating temp when cold.

I use a hydraulic floor jack and still use the stands, with the jack as additional support. My Beemer jack is a single leg peg that sticks into a slot under the car. I will only use that thing if I have to change a flat. They use this type of jack a lot on German vehicles.

Subaru is doing the same thing many other companies are doing, installing two different sizes. Do yourself a favor and install 18"'ers on both sides. You can put just about anything on there, I kind of favor Bosch.

Have your alternator tested at Autozone under load conditions. Seems like I had similar problems when my alternator went tango uniform. Used to be, in the old days, you could run a car for days on a fully charged battery. With everything being electrified now, you probably wouldn't get an hour down the road.

All you do to bleed the system is turn the wheel fully in one direction, then the other, a few times. This should clear all the air out of the system.

Just throw some locktite on the threads and the post.

Are you towing with your forrester, or live in extremely hilly terrain? Seems kind of odd to me that the AT fluid shows signs of burning on a vehicle this new. I would drain it again and do another refill to get more fresh fluid into it.