Tiny Clark

'91 I did some testing on my '96 with the stock intake pipe located just behind the right headlamp. When the car is moving, the temp just inside the air inlet was the same as the ambient air temp. I don't know where or how you could get cooler air into your system, at any price.

I'm always turning mine on and off over here on the autobahns, otherwise I get that downshifting as well. I just disengage it when I see the speed start to decrease going up hills. NEED MORE POWER!!!

Sounds to me like they are saying that if anything goes wrong, they'll just blame it on your choice of fluid. For engine oil, they usually state in the book, "Only use oil that meets or exceeds API yadda, yadda, yadda." I would think if it stated the same thing for the gear oil, then you would be covered as long as the synthetic meets those minimums.

Geeze, how much is a kit? You could run a 12 volt relay coil off anything that gets 12 volts while the key is on, then run a decent sized wire to ground on one side of the contactor and run the other leg to the ground side of one of the low beams (Yellow with Blue stripe according to my diagram). They'll be a bit brighter than normal daytime lights.

My wifes' uncle and aunt were killed in a head on collision while driving a Subie Legacy. The cabin was pretty much intact, but their bodies still didn't take that rapid deceleration very well. It doesn't matter what you are in at that point.

Thanks for the info syd!

I'm not trying to be mean or anything, but are you sure you know what you are doing? I only ask 'cause I figured you would have looked around a bit for it on the engine before you asked a question like that. Anyway... Make sure you drain the oil and not the tranny fluid, as both have drain plugs. Good luck and have fun with it! I think you can download or look at the owner's manual from the mysubaru part of Subaru's homepage. It's good to sign up anyway, and it's free. Tiny

I've seen a lot of posts about Forresters and gas mileage being bad. There was a call into CarTalk this past week about it too. Do these things weigh that much more than regular Subes, or do they have some other problem?

Funny, my '96 Legacy has shoes, and I can't figure out how they would activate the pads using a cable either.

Just so you know, and one of my associates asked me about this on Saturday, the handbrake does not use the disc pads. There are separate shoe brakes behind the rear rotor inside a cast drum housing.

The black area is either laminated between two sheets of glass, laminated as a decal, or painted. I'm not sure how they make the back windows for new Subies. It certainly won't leak, but I'd let them replace it anyway, since it's under warranty.

There I go again, posting while drinking fermented grape beverages. I don't know how I confused the EGR with the PCV valve. I don't know about engine misfire with a bad EGR, but the car could run like crap if the EGR is remaining open. Thanks Frag!

Sounds to me like the the glass is separating a bit. Happens all the time on our C130 windows, showing air bubbles, or pockets. Wouldn't it be great if Subaru installed windows that cracked open a bit back there. It sure would alleviate a lot of the window fogging problems.

Wow, that's amazingly cheap, but I think it'll take a bit more knowledge than being able to turn a screwdriver in order to get it properly installed. With decent mechanical abilities, I'm sure it could be done on a weekend with a good supply of a carbonated adult beverage.

I doubt your EGR valve is messing up too much. It allows the pressure and nasty gaseous crap in the crankcase to be sucked out by the vacuum from the intake. The check ball prevents any backfire from getting back into the crankcase.

One of the reasons I like Japanese cars over American models is the fact that quite a few of them have A/T drain plugs. They make life so much easier!

My point was if you fool the sensor into thinking the engine is warm, it probably won't run very well when cold, with the lean mixture it will be getting. I think it might be worth all this trouble if gas was $25 bucks a gallon, but IMO, you should get a hobby!

$54 seems really cheap for the control module, cable, steering wheel stick, etc. But, ya never can tell.

I think one of you guys should call the other on a land line and talk this thru. When I read this it doesn't seem like you guys are on the same page.

I have a MOMO heated carbon fiber assembly on the back of mine.

Sounds like starter solenoid contacts to me. Glad it's under warranty.

If brake fluid ate rubber, the brake system seals would fail in no time.

You should also be able to ohm out the sensor. I don't know what the resistive value will be, but it is just a coil of wire (a few to a couple hundred ohms?). Measure from the ECU plug out to the sensor if you can. If the sensor coil is OK, make sure the tang on the cam sprocket is there to "trigger" the coil, like frag suggested. I don't know what the clearance should be between the coil and the tang, but it has to be fairly close.

The recharge hose will only fit on one valve of the R134 system, they are different sizes to make them idiot proof, except for those few "Hey Y'all, watch this" kind-of-folk living below the Mason-Dixon Line.

I get a bit of side roll when a frikkin' AUDI or Mercedes passes me going about 120!