Tiny Clark

Another great design from the Subie engineers, at least on my '96, the wiper post is not splined, so if the nut loosens just a bit, the wiper arm is free to move about the cabin while the seatbelt sign is off. Most automobiles have splined posts to prevent this from happening.

Find a rim in junk yard. I'm not sure, but I think you'd have a hard time finding a tire shop that will mount a full size tire on a rim with that slim of a profile. There also may be inside clearance problems with a real tire on that rim.

Yea, sounds like bad starter solenoid contacts to me. The contacts get burned from arcing. If you can handle it, take the starter out and get some new contacts from a starter rebuild shop. I had a word doc on how to pull it apart, but I can't find it. I think Josh has a link to it on this site, but not sure.

Ditto Gerry, that was what I was going to chime in with....

Cannonball, Older models require the use of the CEL to flash and give up codes that way. They don't have a diagnostic test jack like OBDII vehicles have.

They do make an FM adapter you could easily use.

These are for my 96 legacy, and should probably be the same. I'm thinking it's pretty much an industry standard, but who knows. It's easy enough to test with a volt/ohmmeter. Yellow- 12 volt memory Blue/Red stripe 12 Volt fused Green/Orange stripe Antenna control Speakers Rear Left: + Red/Back stripe - White/Red stripe Rear Right: - Blue/Yellow stripe + Red/White stripe Front Left: + Green - Brown/White stripe Front Right: + White/Black stripe - Red/Yellow stripe

And don't forget the Chrome Moly muffler bearings and the high compression tire valves! Go find a turbo equipped subie...

Even some of the muscle car engines in the late sixties and early seveties were famous for blowing out rear ends, like the 383 magnum. And the car manufacturers thought those parts were beefy enough to handle it.

Touché, my Danish friend.

What Setright said, betwixt the marks.

I'm just living with mine being a slug. I don't think the small gains found in less costly mods will amount to much. If you want something fast and dependable, buy a Toyota Supra.

I'm surprised it wasn't stuck on the magnetic plug if it was inside the tranny.

Try a scotchbrite sponge/pad to clean the glass.

Osmosis?

My manual refers to this switch as the "position lights", not the parking lights. Gee, even with the book, they make it difficult.

I cannot understand why it's burning that much oil and not smoking.

Take the shifter console off and check the solenoid operation.

I believe if you take the plastic tray out of your outback, a full size spare will fit. At least, my Legacy looks like it should. Tiny

You should feel the click in the shift lever, that being the solenoid pulling. If you don't, but you do here a click under the dash, it could be either the relay for the solenoid, or the solenoid itself. Even if the relay clicks, the contacts might be arced, causing the problem. You really need a schematic to fix this thing...

Are you sure it's the compressor and not the idler pulley? Just making sure. I would check yellow pages to see if there are any repair/rebuild places around, and also scour the junk yards, you may get lucky with a wrecked OB.

Sand off the dark surface with some fine grit sandpaper. The level will be easier to read.

I'm not exactly sure about the throttle body, but the old carb intakes were heated to allow the car to run better when the engine was cool/cold, because the cylinder head temp was not hot enough to help vaporize the fuel. For best results across the board, there should be a thermostat that closes the line once the engine is warm. I'm sure it probably helps reduce cool engine smog outputs as well.

Never seen a Subie like that in Europe. Maybe if the spare tire is pulled out, you could build one with some 2x4's, plywood, and drywall screws!

It seems to me that the starter will not spin until the bendix armature engages the two contacts that supply 12 volts to the motor. So I have to assume that the bendix is popping out all the way. I would question whether or not the gear is extending far enough to contact the flywheel, since this appears to be the problem. If you have the old starter, check how far the gear will extend, then check your new one. I can't remember exactly what the gear looks like, and can't check it on my old starter until I get home, but I wonder if it is possible that the gear was installed upside down. You can also measure the distance between the edge of the bell housing and the teeth on the flywheel, and compare that to the gear on the starter when it is extended. later... OK, I checked, no way could they put the gear on wrong, at least I hope. You'll have to measure the throw on the gear and compare to the distance between the edge of the housing and the flywheel. Tiny