Tiny Clark

If you do get a free-flow air cleaner, I would go after the type that replaces the paper one in the airbox. And you can do this... http://www.remarcable.net/misc/legacy_outback/mods/snorkusectomy/

You could also take off one of the side belt covers off, rotate the engine around, and check its overall condition.

A pulse generator is used to create a series of electronic pulses that would simulate what your ECU puts out to the injectors. You'd need to know voltage requirements for the injector before you even thought about setting up something to clean them. As you said, you don't think they are bad, and I don't either. I am surprised you don't have any fault codes in your ECU with that problem.

GT used to stand for Grand Touring.* *driving along in style, speed, comfort and convenience.

I don't know anything about this kind of filter, except that some people on this board have had problems with the cone type filter application working in place of the box. That's why the general recommendation appears to be the K&N replacement filter that fits in the box. By the way, with this setup you have, you're getting less cool air into the engine.

*****not*****

Whatever happened to the old handbrake method. We sure are a lazy society...

Are you sure it's not the rear cam bearing seal at the back of the head? Mine was leaking pretty good.

Gotta agree that the tornado probably isn't helping your engine run better. I hope that it didn't hurt too much when they set the hook!

It's just a coil of wire than picks up the tabs on the crank as it spins. Should not be any adjustment. Disconnecting battery for 30 minutes to reset ECU may be a good idea.

It's hard for me to believe the injectors are bad at 52,000 miles. Hopefully, whatever you do will help. Have you ever tried just resetting the ECU?

I might be able to get hold of an old bleed air duct from our C130's that will work. Like I said, I'll look at it real good this weekend. It's not too much of a problem taking all the stuff off to get inside the fender, but I still only want to do it once. I can get a 3" aluminum flexible duct in the states at home repair centers. If I can get some flanges made up for it, I'll be good to go. If I do use that, I'll insulate it as well. Man, if that ABS unit wasn't in the way, I could come off the front of the filter box and it would be ultra easy.

I really am not sure what the engineers had in mind with the scuba "unit" inside the fender. I am going to look at it this weekend, but I am wondering if enough air can get into the fender while the car is running at 70mph or so. The volume of air that the engine pulls in at that speed is something like a small shop vac. I may pull the unit out, then run a duct from the air cleaner box, thru the fender, to the present duct behind the light assembly. Basically replacing the snorkel with a tube. Maybe that would be the best of both worlds... Tiny

I used odor-ban, a liquid odor destroyer before with great results. Make sure your A/C drain tube is not plugged.

I'm thinking you'd almost need a pulse generator to make the injector work, but what do I know???

Can't you pull the ABS fuse and drive with normal brakes? Seems better that having that going on while you're driving around...

OK, I tried it this afternoon. Put the thermometer in at about 70 degrees F here this afternoon. Installed it in the air duct about an inch back into it. It did read 70 before insertion. After a 15 minute drive, the last of which was about 40mph, I pulled over, jumped out, opened the hood, and it read 70. As a matter of fact, the duct felt cool to the touch, which I never noticed before, on accounta I wasn't lookin'. Closed it up and ran back home, let it set at idle for almost 10 minutes, then checked it- about 115 F. Closed it up, ran it for 5 minutes, back down to 70 F at the last stop, but the duct felt a touch warm from residual heat. This is about as scientific as I get, but it pretty much proves to me that cool air is entering the system. BUT, I may do the snorkelectomy in a few weeks, if for nothing more than a louder intake noise. I remember the days we turned the top dish of the 4-bbl air cleaner over to really get the sound of those extra 2 barrels kicking in… to hell with the hot air and the 45 cents a gallon for ethyl!! Tiny

Mine is identical to the one in Wolf's pic. The opening is on the underside behind the headlamp. If I can find my A/C thermo tonight, I will drill a hole into the intake and stick the sensor end into the airstream about an inch back of the opening. Then check it at idle after 5 minutes, then on to rolling down the road to check it again. I'll let you know what happens.

There are tune up places that will do that injector cleaning, but I'm not sure it is worth the money. You could always pull the injectors and clean them with carb and choke cleaner by setting the tips in a bath of the cleaner. I tend to believe that with the additives in most gas today, the injectors should stay pretty clean, but that's just my OPINION. As far as the throttle body, that is just for airflow in most newer cars. Putting anything there won't clean the injectors. Maybe your temp sensor is causing the timing to advance or retard when it shouldn't. Does it ping when the engine is cold as well?

If you can find the disconnect plugs for the different doors you can start disconnecting them one at a time to see if one of the solenoids is loading the system down, or if one of the door wire harnesses has a short. Maybe the problem is at the back hatch, try disconnecting that one first. I have no idea where these connectors may be. Good luck.

I have to disagree with you Setright. That inlet is right behind the headlight. The canister is between the duct and the radiator. I have to believe once the car is underway, the temp at the opening of the duct is close to ambient outside air temp. If I can find a way to stick a thermometer there, I will check it out. Tiny

Sanding the end of the dipstick off to a nice shiny surface will make it easier to read.

It puzzles me a bit why people keep asking about "cold air intakes" for the subies. As soon as the vehicle is in foward motion and any decent speed, all that goes into the intake is pretty much cold air, since that duct is open just behind the headlamp. Are we all doing quarter-miles at the track, and need cold air from a standstill? Is the air inside the fender on a nice, hot, sunny day any cooler than the air at the opening of the duct with no forward motion?

Check around in the engine bay for a sticker that might have been stuck on if the belt was changed. Sometimes they'll put them on the air filter housing.

I agree with jimmy and 99, the cam is what makes the stroke a compression or exhaust type. There should be no resistance on the cam sprocket for the #1 side (it should move freely), since the valves are all closed in the compression stroke. The other cam sprocket should be a pain in the rump roast to get the marks lined up, as the valve springs are being compressed.