Tiny Clark

Another bad design IMO, at least on my 96, because the wiper arm isn't keyed to the shaft. As soon as the nut becomes loose, the arm will slip. That desing engineer needs to be bit@&-slapped!

This has been said by myself and others on this board, and I will repeat it once more. The easiets way to check for spark is to use an extra spark plug, new or old, doesn't even have to be for your subie. Find a good piece of metal (ground) on the motor and clamp the plug to it with a pair of vise grips. Pull one (or all) of your plug wires off and connect them to the test plug. If you have spark, then it's a fuel/air problem. Tiny

I would suggest splice connectors for 2 main reasons. You already have a heat problem, so solder is not a good choice for these wires. Rosin in the solder can also cause corrsion at the solder joint. When properly done, crimp connectors do a very good job, and can be sealed up using silicone or heat shrink.

The biggest question for you, being a student- can you afford to get the 2.5 fixed if it blows a head gasket?? You can't settle for another subie without the 2.5, huh? I wouldn't buy one with a 2.5 myself, and take the chance on a major repair bill.

I only use domesticated hubs, so I don't need the use of a tamer.

Cars with 4 wheel disc brakes need to have the parking brakes "exercised" or they won't hold very well. While driving, pull up on the brake lever and hold it for a few seconds. This gets rid of the road grime and rust that builds up on the drum. Tiny

Throw-out bearings usually only make noise when the clutch is engaged. That's the only time they should be spinning.

I don't like the motorized seat belt for the following reason: My son's car has them, and I find myself forgetting to put the lap belt on because once the shoulder belt comes up, I "feel" like I'm belted in and forget the lap belt. I learned to drive in Germany way back when, and belts were required so I have always used them. I like to think that if people aren't smart enough to buckle up, they deserve whatever they get. Only problem with this rationale is that if they become paralyzed or suffer drain bamage, then they get stuff paid for by us belt-wearing folks in the form of taxes.

A "tube check" is OK if done by a female officer... OOPS, sorry, not politically correct!

Not sure if your '94 is mechanical or electronic as far as speedometer cabling is concerned, but the odometer and speedometer go hand in hand. Maybe they didn't notice the odometer was not working. I would take it back to them.

Most of our Bei Nasse signs around here are 80Kmh.

These Gemans on the autobahn over here must have the formula. On my way to the airport this morning, it was raining and extremely dark, and I was being passed by people going over a hundred mph. Or, maybe they use the formula that has a multiplier of stupidity in it... My formula is: If the road is pretty wet, slow down!

Bosch makes a wiper that has a small wind deflector on it to press the wiper against the window. Works well on my Beemer and Sube.

I use Rain-x as well, on all the windows!! Makes for better visibility out the sides.

I thought engine management was part of the powertrain. Go talk to the service manager. Have you had the OBD scanned?

If you have a mechanical clutch, there should be about an inch of loose play on the pedal before it starts to engage the clutch. If hydraulic, maybe there is air in the system, but even with that, it wouldn't be engaging your clutch with no pedal pressure. There is an addition master cylinder under the hood for the clutch. It should be on or near the driver side firewall.

Aren't there two adjustable rubber bumpers next to the fenders to keep the hood, as we in the Air Force maintenance world call it, properly rigged? Tiny

One bulb for both, removed from the back side of the headlamp. Am I on candid camera? Tiny

Wasn't '94 the year R134 was a requirement? If not, '95 must have been. I know my '94 Ford Tore-a$$ was R134.

A machine shop should be able to put an insert into the head.

Tell the wife to hit the streets and raise enough money to fix it if she doesn't like it!!! Tiny:headbang:

I can't believe they'd do all that work and not change plugs, for the simple reason of being able charge you 3 times what they paid for them. Tiny

Sounds like you overfilled your transmission to me. I think all of them are made with overflow holes to prevent damage....

It could be your throwout bearing. A bad bearing will make a squealing noise just as soon as the clutch is engaged. How many miles on it? The bearings will usually last quite a while, but that depends on factors like holding the clutch pedal in at stop lights. Maybe it wasn't greased properly at the factory.

I had a Toyota do this once, caused by a faulty plug wire. When the conductor warmed up, it grew just long enough to get the spark to jump over the open spot. Maybe when you pulled the wires off to change the plugs, one of the cables was damaged...