Tiny Clark

Maybe this would explain your bad gas mileage as well. Leaky valve seals/worn valve guides, or oil ring problems.

Maybe the computer's engine temp sensor is bad, feeding too much gas when the engine is warm.

Proving that might be difficult, but get all your facts straight about the repair, and get the itemized bill. If you think you have a good case, send them a registered or certified letter stating you are taking them to small claims court. They may come around at that point, because they know those connectors don't just come apart. I'm surprised it didn't overheat climbing that hill from Stateline going into CA. Cajon is a bugger tho, verrrrry long.

Sorry, but the underlying problem looks to me like you don't check your oil at all. I don't check mine every other fill-up either. maybe every three to four weeks.

Only 'cause you stay out of the deepest drifts over there, Olnick. Getting snow and ice buildup shouldn't keep throwing your wheels out of balance, unless the weights are coming off. If they are, whoever is putting them on needs training.

If it's the stop, tail, and turn signals, they probably share a common ground coming off the tail light assembly. The wire should be black, the other 3 being the 12 volts for the different lamps. You can run a wire from the chassis and connect it to the black wire contact in the plug to see if that fixes it, unless you have a meter to make things real easy.

Wish I could help, but with no schematic or working knowledge of the system, I don't have much input. It's possible the tranny has to be hooked up for the computer to send out the signals to energize the solenoids. As far as ohming anything out, you could check across the solenoid windings in the tranny. They would probably all read a couple hundred ohms.

It may shift manually from first to 3rd without the TCU, but I'm not sure. I'm also not sure what you are looking at or what you are doing with the connector off.

Before you go checking around for bad relays, make sure the 12V isn't at the connector for your low beams.

Don't those large threaded assemblies go thru the strut housing? I believe they are all different sizes due to the distances from each strut housing to the attach point on the calipers being different.

My wife says this about me all the time...

Fuel filter @ 30k, :-\

There is a problem with the handle/pivot points and linkage rusting. Sometimes the handle won't go in far enough and prevents the lock from releasing. Try pushing the handle in all the way while unlocking it. If this is your problem... The panel can be taken off, and the linkage is adjustable near the top of the rod at the handle. You have to take off the dammit clip to remove the small rod from the handle assembly, then turn the rod to adjust the length.

Now that's funny right there, I don't care who y'are.

You don't use conductive grease. The contacts are fairly heavy inside the switch, and the grease helps eliminate arcing. If you use conductive grease, the fan won't know what the heck you're trying to have it do.

Not so good. Maybe the person installing the rings during the engine buildup process had a hangover and installed a few upside down...

You can use about 5 feet of fuel hose to pinpoint noises better than using a screwstick. Buy the bulk stuff so it isn't coiled up tight.

Most of the ones I've taken apart had what looked like regular grease is them. I have reinstalled with no grease on a few with no problems. If you can get some silicone grease, that would be your best bet, maybe at Radio Shack.

One can also save themselves a lot of gymnastic torture by removing the seat before working under the dash area. It's only 4 bolts and any electrical connectors that may be present. Certainly worth the extra few minutes to remove it.

Find the beeper and remove it. It shouldn't be that difficult using a short length of hose to the ear. There is a multitude of crap in the panel under the steering wheel on our legacy. If it isn't there, having the panel removed will give you better access to the whole area.

Maybe someone else here knows but I thought codes were stored in the memory even tho no CEL is present at the time it is read.

I tried a K&N flat panel, and noticed no real improvement in mpg or power. Maybe the power would be more noticeable with a manual tranny. I think the only real way to see any improvement would be changes to the exhaust system.

I drive my wife's car hard. It has an A/T, and still gets well over 20MPG combined. If yours is under 20, you need to get it fixed. You can get 17MPG out of a V8. 13 MPG is very bad soob, and you need to get it repaired. Some EGR valves can be reoved and cleaned, not sure about this one.

As I eluded to before, they can be taken apart and cleaned. It's not that difficult, as long as you have opposing thumbs.

Depends on how long the hills are and how often you keep the clutch in mano.