Cougar

You do not want to connect the alternator output directly to the battery. Basically it already is, except for a fuse for protection which will be bypassed if you do that. The clamp on meter will change polarity depending which side of the clamp is towards the power source and the polarity of the source (usually positive for autos). Unless you are looking for a power drain I'm not sure what you are trying to do for a test. If you are looking for a drain then you need to shut everything off and follow the current leak. It sounds like there isn't much drain if there is some and you may need to use a different. in line check, if that is the case.

When I read the posting about the problem I too first thought about the connector under the dash going to the ignition switch. Get a test light probe to work on this so you can trace where voltage is getting to, and it isn't.

One other note about the CEL light. It should turn on when the ignition is first turned on to test the warning lights. If it doesn't, then something is wrong.

I can believe this to happen. You might try using some Techron, made by Chevron, in the tank to see if that helps clean the contacts. Some folks have had success using it for this kind of problem.

If fuel is running out of the exhaust then the injectors must be leaking.

Hopefully the trouble is just a bad connection on the back side of the display.

Thanks for the update Ron. Glad the repairs worked out.

This may be way off but I am wondering about the fuel. If someone has put water in the engine in place of oil, I wonder if something else has been added to the fuel in the tank that may be causing the engine to run extra hot.

As far as the ECU sending a signal to the disty, like others have stated, the disty provides position pulses to the ECU, though the ECU does provide power and ground to the disty for the opto sensor inside it. If the ECU doesn't see ignition pulses coming from the CAS in the disty then the CEL light should be ON and there should be a trouble code like 11 or 13 present. If there is a problem in this area there will be no spark from the coil. A fairly common trouble for this kind of problem is due to a lack of power due to a blown fuse. The horn is on this circuit also so be sure the horn works and if it doesn't, check fuse #5 under the dash.

Along with the areas mentioned, the fuse also supplies power for the ignition system. One easy test to see if that fuse is good is to see if the horn works.

It sounds like you aren't getting spark and haven't checked both sides of the fusible links to make sure voltage is getting there. These are the wires in the black box you mentioned and sure they are making good connection also. Check to see if voltage is getting to the plus and minus sides of the ignition coil with the ignition on. If that is good see if the minus side is has voltage pulses while cranking the engine. It is best to use a test light probe for that if you have one. The light should pulse on and off if things are good there.

It appears you are making good progess. I suggest you check the ECU for any trouble codes. I assume power is getting to the ignition at least.

If the connection is okay then the problem may be a blown fuse for the memory circuit. I'm sure which fuse provides power to the memory circuit.

I think it is under the dash near the steering column. I don't have access to my data right now.

I think voltage for the fuel pump is supplied through the ignition relay so you might try tapping on it to see if that changes things.

While the fuses may be good you should check to see if voltage is getting to them also with the ignition on. Some fuses feed to other fuses.

If I remember correctly (and that can be a problem at times), other posters have cured this problem by changing out one of the following items. The O2 sensor, knock sensor, and CAS sensor. Since the MPG has dropped I suggest you make sure the CTS sensor for the ECU is working as it should be by checking the voltage across it as the engine warms up. Also check the resistance of it at operating temperature and see if that meets spec. I would check the CTS first.

Case solved. "Elementry my dear Watson". Good deal.

Ok. Keep us posted on what you find.

That is interesting what Subaru had to say. I would follow the doctor's advice.

Alright, it is time to fall back. Remove the center wire on the cap and connect a spare plug on it. Place the plug on a good ground and see if you get spark there. If you do, then you most likely have the wrong cap or rotor for the disty.

I feel that you should get at least an exchange for the bad one at no cost to you. I don't think it is fair to have used the part for 8 months and then get a total refund on the deal. The suggestion of getting a replacement and then selling it is a good idea. One thing you should do also I think is have the charging system load tested. You want to make sure that something else in the electrical system caused the alternator to fail early, like a weak battery, and damage the replacement unit.

If the plug wires are in the proper position and things are still not working then have you checked to make sure the new disty parts are exactly the same as the old ones? Also pull one of the plug wires from the plug end and insert an old plug, if you have one, and place it on a good ground point of the engine. Then see if you are getting spark to it.

The reference point is important alright. I am assuming that 12 o'clock is at the rear of the engine and 6 is at the front. If the reference is the other way around then I guess my marbles are still intact. Sadly, I think I am wrong though.:-\

Well, going by your edited post Audio_File I'm not sure about my memory. It looks to me I'm 180 degrees out of phase again. They told me this would happen when I got older.