Cougar

If the excellent check point suggestions made by Gloyal check out ok then I would suspect the problem with the running lights is either in the light switch or with a connector pin to it, since you say that the column switch works. I would fix that problem first. You could check to see if power is getting to the bulbs. The switch connects the ground side of the circuit. If the dash lights still don't work after getting the running lights working then I would suspect you may need to replace the bulbs in the dash. I don't have access to my data right now and can't remember exactly how the dash lights are supplied power through the switch. You could also check to see if they are getting power using a test light probe.

If everything else is working electrically then the meter would seem to be the problem. You can verify that by measuring the voltage to the meter using another meter or a test light probe.

For the running light problem start your checks at the fuses to make sure they are ok. Then see if the lights will work using the switch on top of the steering column.

Be sure to check your fusible links also. There may be a bad connection to one of them.

It sounds like you will be in good shape after you replace the defective unit. You are welcome for the help and thanks for the feedback.

Great find DTM21. Thanks for the heads-up on this.

I think the EGR valve control from the ECU is dependent on various things that are happening at the time. Engine temp, throttle position, O2 sensor feeback, and possibly other things. Is the valve staying open or closed all the time? Can you tell us what the voltage readings are at the valve?

Always remember the Subie motto, "It's what's inside!".

You're a Subee engine pro now. You are welcome for the help and have fun on the new ride.

The engine may start but I still think the valve timing is not correct due to the low compression numbers.

Have you verified that the voltages at the valve end are the same as at the ECU end?

That is a pretty fair price. You will love having these on your shelf ready for when you need them again. The time and money the manuals will save you will recover your investment in no time. You are welcome for the tips.

I suggest you stick something into #1 cylinder (the left cylinder as you face the engine) and use it to feel for TDC. Once you get that set then see how your timing belts line up. You may want to mark the TDC point on the top of crank cog using a marker pen.

Looking at your picture, I assume that you used the left side cylinder, and closest to the photographer, as #1. Just to make sure we are on the same page here.

That should be fine as they are all real close. My manual is for an '88. One thing to note is a complete manual set consists of 6 sections that are divided into 4 seperate manuals for those years. The most used manuals are section 2 which covers the engine and, section 6 which covers the electrical in manual 4. Hopefully you got the complete set with your purchase. The wiring manual is the most crutial to have I think since that is where the details really come in handy. If you didn't get them all don't worry, there will be more on Ebay real soon. I just recently got a good deal on a complete set of manuals for a '05 Baja on Ebay. The manuals for the newer cars have 8 seperate manuals. I also got the manuals for my '01 LL Bean on Ebay. Dealer costs for these manuals would normally be around 400 dollars. You can get them used on Ebay for under 200 dollars.

Very good troubleshooting Mariposa and you are welcome for the help. You have already learned a lot just on this repair. You will be an ace troubleshooter in no time. The info I gave you was from my factory service manual. There is no substitute for these manuals. They cost more, but think about the time you saved by using that information I gave you. Value in labor time saved.....priceless!

The alternator is bad but unfortunately a new alternator isn't going to fix those lights. In my last post I wanted you to see if fuse #6 had power getting to it. This is an important check since it is after the relay and before the switch. If you have power there then you need to check the red/blue wire on the switch for power.

The compression is low. You should have around 170 lbs of pressure. I suspect the valve timing is off a little. Others have had this same trouble. Is it possible you used the wrong mark on the crank gear to set the timing? It has happened to others.

I agree with Nug. This is the kind of thing I was afraid would happen. You replace the pump and still have the problem. Good find though, at least you now know what the real problem is. You may have to replace the sender unit also along with the bad plug if you can't clean up the connector pin well enough. That damage is pretty bad.

I didn't notice the date of the OP. Thanks Suzam.

I like the advice that Suzam stated about going to Costco for your tires. It is hard to beat their warranty and prices. They have a good selection of tires and something from Michelin should work well for you. Looking at your location it doesn't look like you have to worry about driving in snow so a summer tire should work for you. You may also want to get a all-season type tire. Talk with the sales folks where ever you end up at and let them know your driving requirements. They should be able to recommend a good tire to you. You can get a long lasting tire but you may not like the way it feels since they tend to be a harder type tire tread than something that is soft and handles well but may only last 40k miles. Decide what is most important to you.

Check to see if fuse 6 is getting power. If fuse 6 has voltage getting to it then you will need to see if there is voltage getting to the light switch on the red/blue wire.

Is the left headlight out? If the headlight works then the relay isn't the problem. There should be four relays near the right side of the steering column. Two of them are for the headlights.

There is a relay in the circuit for the running lights. Power for them is supplied by the left side headlamp relay. If the left side headlight is out then you will need to find the relay and replace it. Fuse #6 supplies power to the running lights. The warning lights coming on is caused by the bad alternator, as the others have correctly stated. Replace the alternator ASAP. Edit: I stated right side earlier. It is the left side relay.

You are correct in your thinking they way things work. Until the ground is made and current flows, the lead from the lights will stay high since the circuit is open. The H-beam indicator does run to the same ground but the two points have separated somewhere. The indicator light is tied to the working side of the break in the circuit. My guess is the break is at the 8 pin connector. I think the 8 pin connector I was refering to is different than the one you are looking at. The one that I am talking about should be near the firewall on the far left side of the dash.