Cougar

I tend to think the problem is dirty contacts in the switch causing this to happen. You may be able to clean them with some contact cleaner if you can get to them. They may be sealed up though which would mean a new switch is needed.

If you don't have a digital meter that will handle a 10 amp current draw this may be a good time to invest in one. You can get one for around 50 dollars and then have a very valuable test tool on hand when you need it. You can then set the meter in the current function and place it in series with the battery ground connection. Normal current draw should be less than 80 milliamps. By pulling fuses one at a time you will find which circuit has the draw on it and narrow down the area to check for the trouble.

Thanks for the nice compliment Skip, and I'll say the same to you also. You've kept me pointed straight a few times in the past when I got off the trail. This problem shouldn't take too long to track it down and fix with all of us on it. Then you'll be down the road.

Skip, Not much more I can add to the good suggestions already given. I assume you cranked the engine enough to get gas pumped to the engine in case the fuel in the line flowed back to the the tank. I also assume you have your scope or analog meter to check the injector pulses. In answer to question 2 in your first post, the two areas are seperated from each other. Pin 27 of the ECU has brn/blk wire going to the fuel gauge. Then a blue wire ties between the gauge and the sensor. You should have voltage there. A red/blk wire ties in the ground side to the sensor.

Like Nipper suggested, I would check for a intake manifold leak that may be the cause of this. The gaskets on the intake manifold may be failing.

Glad to hear Subaru is helping you out with this issue.

Code 11 is a crank angle sensor or circuit code. The sensor is in the distributor. If the engine runs then the fault may be with the ECU causing a false code. Code 13 is for a cam sensor or circuit. I assume this is related to the same sensor. The EA 82 engine only has one engine angle sensor, that I am aware of at least.

The alternator may have a short inside it and the link does tie directly to it along with some other fused circuits. You could isolate the alternator leads and then see if the short is still present. The link may be made for about 80 amps.

I agree GD, 15 seconds is a long time but it does say that in the manual.

If the motor works ok when you tie 12 volts to it then another thing to check is the blower relay.

Very good detective work Gloyale and thanks for the info.

You are correct about the melting characteristics Frank. They are more like a delay or slow blow fuse. Here is what my FSM manual states about the red colored link. The gauge size is 0.85mm2 and should have less than a 60mV voltage drop across it when a 10 amp current flows through it at room temperature. The fusible link should melt within 15 seconds at a current flow of 130 amps. I would leave the other original links in there though you could purchase some newer style ones for backup. The green is 80 amps and the black is 190 amps. Like GD said, these links should never have to be replaced if things work like they should.

Since you have a good circuit to the solenoid it would appear the ECU is the problem.

I think each fan has its own relay. There may be a 'main fan' and 'sub fan' relay.

I assume you are talking about the infamous fuse #12, which ties to more places than any other fuse. One place is the seatbelt switch so check that area out. I suggest you get a service manual for the car to help you with this trouble and since the circuit ties to so many things.

The problem is most likely due to an intermittent power connection, not a short. Looking at some data for your car it shows that in the power panel under the hood, fuse SBF-3 ties to fuse #25 and together they feed power to the areas you mention plus others. A blu/red wire ties to fuse #25 and supplies power to those areas. One of the modules is the security module so perhaps that explains why you can't start the car when this happens. I suggest you check that wire using a test light probe or meter and look for an intermittent power connection. Tapping on things around the fuse panel with a screwdriver handle, while watching the test light, may lead you to where the trouble is.

I would make a hole through the knock outs. This will leave the seal intact if the hole will stretch around the new wire. However you do it, make sure you have a seal from the outside.

Some folks have had success clearing a misfire by running some Seafoam through the one of the vacuum lines while revving the engine. It helps clean the carbon out of the cylinders.

Inspect the inside of the socket and look for any trouble. You may be able to fix it yourself.

Check the fuses and make sure they are all good. If they are good then you might try pulling the cluster panel and reconnect the connectors to the panel.

Thanks for the feedback.

After reading through the posts again I think you might have a faulty ECU. I suggest you try replacing that to see if it will get you going.

I believe ECS stands for 'Electronic Control System'. If the light is turning on then something needs to be checked possibly in the drive train system or engine.

Another success story! Glad you got it fixed and thanks for the feedback. You are welcome for the help. Drive on.

You will not get a code if the resistance of the sensor is within limits. Some folks have had problems with the sensor showing the engine is always cold so it runs rich. You can see if the voltage changes across the sensor as the engine warms up. That is one way to check it. If you don't see much change in voltage as the engine wams up then the sensor isn't working correctly.