Cougar

Cleaning the switch contacts will most likely fix the trouble.

Thanks for the reference Nipper. I noticed that the resistance readings for 40 and 32 degrees seem to be transposed. Are they really correct?

The fan motor may be generating some noise into the power buss and the tach is picking it up.

You are correct Hondasucks. I'm getting my old and new versions mixed up again. Glad you got yours running well.

That is a factory service manual for the engine in your car. There isn't any better manual than that. Even though the year is different the manual will be very close to your car's model year. The manuals for the car came in a set of 4 during that time. The most used manuals are #2 for the engine and #4 for the electrical wiring. You should be able to get a set of these manuals on Ebay for around $30 dollars. I paid about 100 dollars for my set when I purchased a new '88 GL 10. Over the years they more than paid for themselves in time and money saved in repairs and information.

Glad to hear you got it fixed. I am surprised it wouldn't run being just one tooth off. Were both belts off or just one?

I think you would be happy with a Actron. I own a couple of units from Equus myself, and like them. They can do more things and are more money than what you wanted to spend though. Actron has their own versions of them also.

The problem is most likely due to bad solenoid contacts in the starter solenoid. This is mounted on the starter motor and you can replace the contacts if you would like to for around $10 dollars in parts cost. The other alternative is to replace the whole starter.

Thanks for the feedback Bulwnkl. Glad you got it fixed and you are welcome for the help.

To find the answer to that, it could be one of those life long quests to get a answer.

You're making good progress now SubaruJunkie.

I think those are very good plugs also so I doubt it will change this problem, but perhaps it might. We can hope it will at least.

I assume that the switch you refered to being replaced is the brake light switch that is mounted near the brake pedal. This would be the first place a tech would suspect trouble of this kind. If that is correct and the trouble is still occurring then it would seem there is something else causing the trouble or the switch adjustment isn't correct. The brake fluid level and hand brake will effect the brake warning light mounted in the dash but not the rear brake lights. The data I looked at shows there is a wht/blk wire tied to the brake switch that connects to the rear lights. The other wire on the switch is tied to power. Check to see if there is voltage on the wht/blk wire while the brake pedal is not being pressed on. If there is, see if you can adjust the switch position so the switch opens and has no voltage on the wht/blk wire. Hopefully the trouble is just due to the adjustment position. If you can't get the switch to open then the new switch may be shorted and needs to be replaced, but it is had to believe this would happen. Another possibility is there may be a power wire crossed to the brake lights and causing this. If the brake lights stay lit when you remove the wht/blk wire from the brake switch then you have that problem occurring.

It's amazing how many times you can find trouble by tapping around on things. I like to use the handle of a rubber coated screwdriver as my tool of choice. The braided ground wires should be on the chassis, bonding things to ground.

I think you have a good idea about cleaning the ground connections. I think there has been others that had misfire codes and cleaning the grounds seemed to cure the trouble. I would also clean the battery connections if you haven't done that already and the chassis ground connections near the battery and any others you see in the engine compartment using a brass wire brush. It may not help but it sure won't hurt at all to do this. Some folks have added extra grounding leads and reported better perfomance with them. To me, just making sure the factory grounding system is in good shape should be enough but others may disagree with that.

It sounds like the timing belts are a tooth off.

That's a good story F-F-F. The low fuel sensor works a little different than the normal fuel level sensor. The low fuel sensor is a thermistor and has no moving parts or contacts that can cause trouble. So when it shows low I would tend to believe it and stop at the next station for a fill up. Mwatt, some folks have restored the normal service of the sensors by using some Techron in the tank to clean the contacts on the wiper arm of the sensor. You might try a using it on the next couple of fill ups to see if that will work for you also. Since you are seeing a half tank, the problem sounds like one of the two sensors is having trouble.

Well it seems to me there is either a problem with both sensors, there is a problem with the ECU, or perhaps the sensors aren't getting voltage to them due to a relay or fuse problem. Have you checked to see if power is getting to the sensors and the IAC valve?

If I remember correctly I think it possible to mix up the two sensor connections. Can yours be swapped by chance? To erase the memory disconnect the battery for at least a half hour. If the code still is in memory then try an hour. It will go away when the battery power has been removed for a long enough time.

There may be some hope here. I suggest you purchase a product called AutoRx and see if it will help with this problem. It has freed up gumed up rings to get the compression back and given more life to leaking gaskets also. Here is a link to the site: http://www.auto-rx.com/

It shouldn't throw a code for that.

Good write-up GD.

The sensor should have two leads going to it and I think it is on the passenger side of the engine. Possibly behind the throttle body area. You can also see if the voltage changes across the sensor as the engine warms up. You can use a voltmeter to check the injectors but it may give a funny reading since the signal is pulsed. You are welcome for the help.

The injectors may not be turning on due to the error code from the crank sensor. Make sure the circuit is good between the sensor and the ECU. If that is ok then you will need to replace the sensor. I would hold off on troubleshooting the fuel problem until the error code is solved.

Since you state that the engine may be running rich the problem may be due to a bad coolant temperature sensor for the ECU. This is not the one for the dash gauge. These sensors can fail so that the ECU thinks that the engine is cold when it is really hot. If it is bad this may be causing the misfire code also.