Cougar

Hang in there, with all the good help available here we can get this going. My info shows that there is a 22 pin connector (one of several connectors) going to the ECU. There is a yel/red wire coming from the ignition relay and it goes to pins 2 and 13 of that connector. Check for power there with the ignition ON. There is also power coming from fuse 14 on another yel/red wire to pin 15. Check that also.

This should be a simple fuse replacement problem. Check the fuses under the dash and the hood. I'm sure you will find one that is blown. It may also be a fusible link so check them to. You're welcome for the help.

I suspect that the problem is with the replacement unit. Going from some info I looked at, it appears power goes to pin 10 and 6 on the unit. The wire colors may be yel/grn and blue/red respectively. I would make sure power is getting to those pins with the new unit connected, though you really have proved it with reinstalling the other unit. I assume you have tried the radio mode in the new unit and it doesn't work also. There are places you can send these out to have them repaired if you like though it may not be real economical to do that. Here is a link to one place you can check out. http://www.carstereohelp.com/

The only other thing besides a faulty ECU that I can think of that may cause this problem is if the ECU supply power is dirty. This could be caused by a faulty alternator or bad ECU ground. If you have a digital voltmeter I would use it to test for noise on the power and grounding to the ECU. Place the meter in the AC volts function and check the voltage at the battery while revving the engine to around 2,000 RPM. See if you find any AC voltage there. You should see less than 0.2 volts there. You can also check the grounds to the ECU by measuring the voltage between the connection at the ECU and a known good ground point. If those things check ok then I would replace the ECU.

Since you state that the CPC solenoid is working and still have a error code for it this would mean the ECU is having a problem with that circuit at least. I would suspect the same may be true for the other codes that have just started to appear. If you verify that the solenoid is getting 12 volts while it is working using a meter and still have a code then the problem has to be with the ECU. I would also suggest checking all the input power leads going to the ECU to make sure they are ok. If those are ok, then replacing the ECU would be my next step to try and fix this trouble.

Check to see if you have voltage on the lead going to the thermistor where the connection goes into the tank. If the wire from the light and to the thermistor is ok you should see a voltage close to 12 volts. You should also be able to ground that connection and make the light turn on. Skip said he had a resistance of about 800 ohms on the thermistor he measured. There also may be a broken connection inside the tank to the thermistor.

Instead of installing a ammeter I think you should consider a using a voltmeter instead. While knowing the charging current value is nice I think knowing what the voltage at the battery is a little better. The installation is a little easier also. While connecting directly to the battery is good, it doesn't have to be right at the battery and could be tied to the fuse panel in the dash. By monitoring the battery voltage and making sure the value stays between 12.5 and 14.8 volts you will know your battery is getting the charge it should be.

If the connections to the speedometer are okay then I would have to think that the gauge itself needs to be replaced as something inside it has failed.

Have you checked the wiring connection from the ignition switch to the connector in the steering column. A lot of times there is a burned contact pin in the connector due to the high current.

Daeron, I do have one small suggestion about your drawing. Instead of showing two seperate wires going between the lights and the relay I would show one wire coming from the relay (87) and then splitting to the lights.

To Gloyale, I wish I could help you with that but I don't know. To Skip, After looking at your pictures again I noticed something about the slots on the CAS wheel I didn't realize before. It looks to me there may be two seperate opto sensors involved with this which I wasn't aware of. Is this correct? If that is so then I would think that the AC voltage reading should be done with the common probe to ground and the other to each one of the signal lines, one at a time. You may have done that already but I couldn't tell from what you stated on your test. Also it may help to slow the RPM down on the drill. I don't know how fast the rotor normally spins while the engine is cranking but it may be more like around 30 RPM as a guess.

Good deal McBrat. Glad you fixed it and thanks for the feedback.

If the wires you have on there now are fairly new then I myself doubt that new wires will fix this. I could be wrong though. I would more suspect carbon buildup or valves causing this.

The Muppet picture and caption is great Davalos.

You can use either 87 or 87A but normally you would want the relay to be turned on to turn on the lights. It wouldn't be conventional for the relay to be turned on so the lights would be off. This would also mean there would have to be cutoff switch to the main power to the lights since power would be applied to them while the car is off. Pin 87 should normally go to the lights.

Thank you very much for doing that Skip. I don't blame you one bit for "whimping out" on this. Your test setup is the next best thing to the real thing I would say. I was hoping to see a better AC signal reading on this. My idea may not be of any help here.

Good research on the relay Cobcob. From what you say then, I agree that the lights should be tied to 87 (the normally open contact) of the relay. The other contact, 87A would be the normally closed contact and just left open. Pin 30 is the common contact that has power tied to it. The common connection simply moves between these two points when relay is either off or on.

Looking at the drawing, it states that both 87 and 87A go to the lights and are tied to the common 30 when the relay is on. I don't know if this is really correct or not but a simple check with a ohmmeter tied between 30 and the other two points will show if it is.

I think there is a cold start valve for this so that should be checked. Has a check for vacuum leaks been done?

Thanks Gloyale, I appreciate the help on this. If this works as I think it should it will help others later on. You always post great advice and help for members here.

Paging Skip or Daeron.... can either of you help out with this?

These pictures prove that some Soob owners really get into their work.

You can check out the FAQ's on the site I gave you. You will most likely have to swap some of the things from your old engine to the replacement one if you do that along with using your existing wire harness.

Not to change the subject here but, I suspect that the polarity may have been reversed when you connected the original plug to the new pump. You may have checked that though.

Before you throw in the towel on the engine I would make sure that the timing belt was set up correctly on the head that is reading low. If the pressures are reading about the same for both cylinders on that side then my guess is the cam for the valves wasn't set correctly and could be a couple of teeth off. If you do get a used engine here is a link to a site that seemed good to me. http://www.jsamotors.com/ContactUs.aspx