Cougar

It is sounding like your trouble is with the ignition switch. To MilesFox: Have you checked fuse #5 for the power problem? I think that is the source for your problem.

The reason you saw +12 volts on both sides of the circuit is because the circuit to run the fan was open. There won't be any real voltage drop across the device until the circuit is closed and current is flowing. If the fan had been running, then you would see the + and - as you expected to see. If you had measured across the switch to ground you would see all the voltage there since that is the open part of the circuit. When the switch is closed then it is a short basically and has no voltage across it since there is no resistance for a voltage drop to occur. Ohm's Law must prevail. You are correct about the switch usually making the ground connection to turn the fan and this could be bypassed with a simple switch that can handle that amount of current. I don't like to modify things like this because it puts needless ware and load on things. I like to let the sensor do its' job.

Why not give them a down payment to hold it you until you can come up with the rest of the cash?

Be sure to check the link connections also that slip into the slots. The samething happened to me once and the connection was bad, the link was good. Make sure voltage is getting to all of them. The ignition switch is next in line if things are ok with the links. Another thing to look at is the neutral safety switch if you have an automatic. You can try starting it in neutral if that is a problem. You should also clean the battery terminals, especially the smaller positive wire, and look for signs of internal corrosion of the wire.

I would check the fusible links in the box that is mounted on the coolant resevoir. My guess is that there is one that has a bad connection or it may be blown. If that is ok then the problem may be the ignition switch or a connection to it.

Welcome to the family. Hope you really like your new car. If your like myself this will be the first of a line in the future with Subaru. For an extended warranty, you should check with your insurance company. They may be able to offer you the samething for far less money than the dealer policy.

You will have to decide how much is too much to spend. We don't know all the things that need to be done to this car. The car may be worth a couple of thousand if everything was ok with it. If you want to spend more than it is worth then you can either go for it, or look for something else to invest in.

If you have a TPS I would try to clean the wiper contacts on it. You may be able to track down the loose connection by tapping on suspected bad areas with a screwdriver handle while the engine is idling and see if things change while you tap on them.

If they put a short block in that should totally eliminate the original problem. It sounds to me that Subaru is trying to do what they can for you on this. You will basically have a rebuilt motor when done.

Glad you could help him Northguy. I didn't have any recomendations except for locations in Anchorage.

Yes, it should. That is why I suggested the starter fluid in my first post.

Yes, you should be able to see some sort of pulsing DC voltage with either an analog or digital meter though I am not sure what the value will be. I think the pulse is a 5 volt pulse but I am not real sure on that, it may be 12 volts. Some folks have made up a NOID light to check this which consists of an LED with a series limiting resistor. The LED will flash with the pulses. You may also want to try measuring the resistance of the injector coil. I think they should be around 12 ohms if I remember correctly.

Do you know if the injector is working or is getting signal to open from the ECU?

I would guess that this is really a fuel problem. You could prove it by spraying a small amout of starter fluid into the intake and see if it tries to run when you try to start it. If that doesn't work then I would guess one of the timing belts may have broken.

Thanks for the clairification about the location of the sensor Gnuman.

I too think you will find out that the ground side of the coil is controlled by the ECU. The sensor that tells the ECU to switch the fan on is different than the sensor for the gauge I think. It may be located in the radiator.

With that low of pressure the problem my be with the valves. Squirt some oil into the cylinder and see if the pressure changes much then. If it doesn't, then the valves will be the problem most likely and you just need to replace or repair the head.

As all you may know, those babies will cost you well over $100 each if you purchase a new one. I found this out the hard way when I broke one of mine working on things. My first thought after I broke it was, "I just broke a $30 dollar part". You can imagine my surprise when the parts guy told me the real cost.

This is most likely due to bad solenoid contacts, which can be replaced instead of getting a whole new starter. When the contacts are not making good connection all you hear is the click of the solenoid working.

You are correct KStretch55. The ECU needs to detect the ignition circuit working, by seeing the firing pulses to the coil, before turning on the pump circuit. I'm not sure about all models but I think most at least, the pump is controlled by making the ground connection through the ECU to turn the pump on.

I have heard that overfilling the gas tank can cause liquids to backflow into the canister and damage the filter.

Welcome to the forum RCW. There are a lot of nice Sooby owners here and with good repair knowledge. One thing you may want to do is post this in the older generation Subaru section. The new generation section mainly deals with the Legacy line. One of the moderators may move this post. To get to the different areas click on the check mark in the 'forum jump' window near the bottom of the post page and select the area you want to go to.

There is a sealent that Subaru is using to stop HG leaks. I'm not sure what this is but a dealer may be able to tell you, or possibly someone here knows.

Have you tried replacing the fuel filter to see if there may be fuel flow problem?

I think the brown/red is what you are looking for. The black wire may be ground. You could test the wire with a test light to verify that.