Cougar

Warning! Fusible links are not just ordinary pieces of wire. They are designed to carry a certain amount of current to protect the wiring they are spec'ed for. Using an ordinary wire in place of them is asking for big trouble if a short occurs.

Problems with a wire connection are usually found near the ends of the wire. Sometimes they can be with a connector that is in between the ends. Very seldom is the trouble found to be inside the harness.

The wire connection between the ECU and the sensor.

The trouble is with the circuit to the sensor. Unless the wiring on the sensor has been damaged then the trouble is in the external wiring to the sensor.

A circuit malfuction means there is a problem with the connection to the sensor. It could be due to a short or open connection on the wire to the sensor, a bad connection, or a bridged connnection to something else that shouldn't be tie to the circuit. You need to test the wire connection for these kinds of problems. Having a meter to do that with is necessary. This is with the front sensor though not the rear one.

You test a wire connection like I stated in post 36, using an ohmmeter.

Did you check the wire connection to make sure it was ok before replacing the sensor? I assume you didn't.

Measure the resistance between the two points. A good connection will have less than 1 ohm of resistance.

I doubt changing the CAT will make any difference for a low voltage code. The trouble sounds like there is a bad connection between the sensor and the ECU. A high resistance in the line will cause a low voltage to be seen by the ECU.

I think it is above the steering column. There are four relays together and it is one of them.

Make sure the plugwires are seated on the plugs correctly. If they are ok then perhaps they got damaged when changing the plugs and a new set may fix the problem.

The trouble you describe is most likely due to either a faulty blower relay or the brushes in the motor are worn out. Check to see if voltage is getting to the motor when the trouble happens using chassis ground as the reference. If you have voltage on one side of the connection to the motor but not the other then the motor msot likely needs to be replaced. If you don't have voltage on either side of the motor connections the relay is most likely the cause od the trouble.

Another simple thing to do is replace the fuel filter.

You're welcome. Good hunting.

The trouble you are having is most likely due to a connection problem to ground running to the light switch as you suspected. You can pin point the trouble area by grounding the wire going back to the light switch. It should turn on the lights when you have the switch in the on position if the path back to the lights is good. If that wire is the trouble and you have too much trouble finding the trouble spot you could run a bypass wire between the two locations and bypass the trouble. Not the prefered solution but it will work. It is very likely the trouble is within a connector and by simply disconnecting and reconnecting it the trouble may clear.

There is most likely a broken wire in the door jam that ties the lock switch to the rest of the lock system in the car. A common problem that occurs to the wires there due to the stresses that they get when opening and closing the doors.

Checking the DC resistance of a plugwire isn't going to eliminate the possibility that the wire can be bad.

Swapping the injector is what I would try also since it doesn't involve buying any extra parts. If you can swap the plug wire also that would be a good thing to do. The compression readings for the driver side are perfect but the passenger side readings are slightly too high. It may be the valve timing is off slightly on that side.

You could try swapping the fuel injector to see if the trouble moves with it. Changing the knock sensor or the O2 sensor have sometimes helped others with this kind of issue.

If you have about the same voltage at the battery as the alternator output post then it sounds like you have things under control.

After reading you post here are some things that stood out to me. You stated you had 3.7 ohms of resistance between the alternator and the negative side of the battery. I'm not sure where the meter probe was at on the alternator. If you were on the case of the alternator then there is a problem with the battery ground. You should see zero ohms of resistance. If you are taking about the output lead of the alternator then that isn't right either. You also stated the voltage dropped down at the battery after you started ithe engine. You need to see what the voltage was at the output lead of the alternator. If it is 14 volts and the battery side is lower then there is a wiring problem between the alternator output lead and the battery. As a note. The warning lights are in the field lead circuit of the alternator and that is why they can turn on when the alternator has a problem.

I think a bad bushing in the disty will cause other issues like a rough idle and a jumpy tach reading.

That's a pretty interesting technique Scoobywagon. I'm not sure if it is the easiest method but it is a interesting one and would definately show up the trouble if it was there, and most likely is in this case.

You most likely aren't getting power to the coil in the start position like Naru stated. Be sure to check the fuses for a problem there, especially fuse #5.

It is possible that the fuel gauge may not be indicating the correct fuel level in the tank. As you sure the gauge is accurate? If the gauge is indicating correctly then there could be a possible connection problem to the sensor in the tank to indicate the low level. Those models used a thermistor I believe to turn on the light in the dash when the fuel got real low. When the fuel level went below the sensor it would heat up and change resistance to a lower amount and turn on the light.