MorganM

One inch chisel and BFH I was really sketchy about pulling mine when I was rebuilding my EA8 SPFI. It didnt seem right but if you work with the angle its stuck in there and pound it out she should move smoothly with every wack. Putting it back in was just as crazy as it had to be pounded back in the same way. Just be sure your wacking on the tube and not your soft aluminum block!

Still going at it as hard as I can. Usally puting in an hour or so after work and after I get my son to bed. Hit acouple other obsticals. 1) how do you drive out the bolts from the brackets that hold the main cross member to the unibody? I have no vise but I did hang it just over the edge of my bench and released the BFH on it. I was doing more damage to the bracket then anything. Air hammer is impossible to keep on target. They are soaking in some of my home brew penetrating lube. I can tell they are pressed in as there are no signes of welding. The end of the bolt near the head actually flares out slightly which leads me to belive its only pressed in and not welded. Ideas? I was thinking of just making new ones =P or really BIG washers LOL 2) how the heck do you get the steering knuckle off the strut leg?? Removed the 2 bolts and got it to slide about half an inch down where it is now stuck. Used crow bar, BFH, air hammer, 1" chizel and variouse combinations of them all Still stuck on. Otherwise things are going relativly smoothly. Deciphering all the instructions I find harder then most of the work. Thanks!

Ah gotcha I think i get it now...

I swear its the curse of the 1988 Subarus!!!! :madder: Same type of bull happens on my 88 GL wagon. SOmething breaks, I fix what broke, go to start her up and something completly irrelivante broke JUST SITTING THERE! I wish I had a better suggestion to this issue other then "ive been there and dont give up"

You said the engine was just installed; what was rebuilt? This last winter I pulled apart an EA82 that had been over heated, died on the HWY, dude poped the clutch at 65 MPH. He kept driving untill it died again. He pulls over and waits for the temp guage to go down to about half. Starts it up again and drives home (another 10 miles). The next day he calls me to come 'take a look at whats wrong'. He trys to start it and coolant starst SQUIRTING up rythmicly from everywhere and it sounds like a bong with all the bubbling in the overflow tank. Well when we pulled it all apart there really wasnt HUGE amounts of damage that was expected. The lower end held together fine. Minimal scoring on the cylinder walls, heads had no visible cracks, valve train looked ok. Point is I dont think in 5 minutes of driving overheated that there is any irrepairable damage done. You werent mixing oil and coolant (which is HORRIBLE on the power train!) and as long as you had good oil pressure I think you still have a reliable subaru on your hands.

This happend all the time on my old buick. Check connections at the motor under the hood. Thats the most likely spot for corrosioan and breakage. The other switches and such are pretty well enclosed in the cabin. Start easy and work to the harder stuff.

Toybuilder: Nobody said a stock subaru made it through there. It was clearly stated a single range turbowagon, with welded rear made it through

My subaru smells like a gym locker, Archemitis wagon smells like jack dog and motor oil Isnt that what makes them all unique? LOL

What about the SAAB 900 turbo APC unit, pressure solenoid valve and the pressure transducer? I thought I seen some people work around the subaru fuel cut using these SAAB parts.

Ive had no issues with whatever cheapest aftermarket crap was in stock at Autozone. Bought the "turn in tool" there for under $10 also. Was just a funky cube adapert that goes onto a 3/8 driver. Not the best solution but if its all you can afford (like myself) I wouldnt worry too much about having to use them

McBrat: Anymore details on this Subaru Heaven? I'm not even an hour from Madison WI

This is true harpua. You can use your old clutch AC pump and someone here has done something similar (I'm sure they will step forward so I wont speak for them) I like the idea of an electric one. Glad to be rid of my AC pump as its a waste of power in more ways then one. Calebz: The pumps in Subarus that came quiped with pnuematic suspension are neat indeed. Archemitis and myself checked out one on an XT 6. I have no idea what PSI it put out. It definatly looked promising having its own electric motor and air tank. Anyone fited one of these for other purposes? Thanks

Sorry but that's just what I wanted to avoid. I see that crap happend ALL DAY on IRC channels... person A is pissed at person B and invaides their channel (or in this case message board) and causes all kinds of trouble. This is very counter productive. Being a moderator on several persistant IRC channels for years I quickly "stamp out" little fires before the become rampant flame festivals. Thankfully on these boards you can just lock a thread instead of just having to ban people. If people from the threads feel the need to carry on they can do it in a more appropriate forum like the Offtopic forum. But thats just my 2 cents here.. I'm not a Moderator here

Looks nifty! Any particular make/models that come with that? Also what exacly is it / used for ? Hard to tell from just a small photo Thanks for the info.

This is the ONLY message board I come to any more for a reason... most others have degraded to a level not suitable for any open discussion or debate. The USMB has always been a very open and friendly environment where even the most novice Subaru convert can ask a question and rest sure that the answers to their thread will be helpfull and accurate. Where if any inacuracies in that post are spoted; a wiser member will respectfully interject a better suggestion. Isnt it about time to cap off this thread? I think just about everyone has spouted off their opinion here who wanted to. Finger pointing and pissing contests just spiral into some of the pointless posting whitnessed in this thread.

Time to invest in a mechanic (read: needle) stethiscope. Any parts store worth walking into should have some on hand for around $10. Youll be able to diagnose a connecting rod from a push rod (are justys pushrod even?) from a valve etc etc etc "until it builds oil pressure" -- scary...

With out a doubt replace it. Even if it doesnt fix your problem it's still a wise investment. Every engine I've ever whitnesed blow up or blown up first hand was cooling related. New radiators are your friend

So youre saying Subaru DIDNT make the Nova?

young dumb punk kids anobody who claims they are a car theif would have had that care gone in 5 minutes. looks like some dumd kids watched too many movies and wanted to go on a joy ride only to learn they were missing a key step in hot wiring a car =P the worst part is the feeling of violation. that old hot rod I had was broke into three times and once was an atempt to steal it (thank God the battery was dead! lol) that feeling of some respectless dickhead trying to steal your stuff becuase their too damn lazy to work hard and earn it themselves is horrible. american society relys greatly on the illusion of safety. when that illusion is disolved after something like this the feeling and questions we are left with is often times worse then the crime commited atleast they didnt get away with it however! peace

That spoob is pimp! Dont mind the bias critisizm from those fancy brush guards people For a do it yourself job that is top notch. One thing I noticed it could use is maybe some "clip in" or quick bolt on mesh guards for the lights for when you hit the trail. But for the ride home it looks fly with the lights open like that. 2 Gold Stars

As predicted the linkcage came undone when the main crossmember was lowerd; thanks for the tip A friend and I got alot done on it this weekend. Hope to have it all in soon!

Yes! I'm finally starting to install my BYB/Ozified 3" lift Did a few of the steps on the instructions. I was boogled by how to remove the stock stearing universal joints. I completly removed the bolts in the "pinch bolts" that are around the splined stearing shafts. Tryed the crow bar + BFH and the air hammer. Any suggestions? Any other hints tips and tricks for the rest of the installation? Thank you.

Sounds like she needs a new tranny and some TLC. THe tranny is shot. Prolly the pump but it could be something else. As for the stumbleing idle when you pull the dipstick thats normal. It shouldnt kill it however or effect the idle TOO bad. When you pull the dipstick on these engines youre making a vacume leak. There is possibly another small vacume leak in the system and pulling the dipstick is making a bigger one. How much is she asking? How much oil does it eat? How much coolant does it eat? How many miles? Does it blow smoke? (on startup, constantly, or never) How much oil is "seaping" around the engine? Does she have service records you can flip through? If not whats some of the major things over the last 5 years thats been done? Just some questions to ask if you are seriouse about buying it. Thx

is it anything more special then an EA82 sedan? Thats all I can ID from that thumbnail... actually it looks more like a VW Fox haha

It says in that bulliten it only effected 1999/91 Loyales but my 88 GL wagon (SPFI) did the same thing. I happend to notice at the junkyard some SPFIs had a more "logical" PCV system. Little did I know that it was this PCV system fix heh. Got all the parts I needed from the junkyard and put them on my EA82. Maybe a cheaper solution to some who are junkyard savy