MorganM

Yes, start drinking now...

wow a Sidekick? I would think the tracks would TOUCH eachother! LOL Bet its fun tearing up some terrain in that thing however

I know it can be 1 tooth off on the SPFI EA82 and still start. DOne it way to many times I would first off check what GD mentioned. Try timing it with the advance circut OFF (for the carb version you pull the hose like he mentioned or on the EFI you need to plug in 2 connectors under the hood right by the fuel filter) If that does not work you can try to "restab" the dist. Its kinda tricky on these and it wouldnt supprise me if someone installed it a tooth off. The teeth are curved not straight so when you go to stab it the shaft spins a bit as it goes in making it easy to be a tooth off. Take your time in doing it. Pull it nice and slow, just high enough to clear the cam gear teeth and slip it over to the next one and slip it back in. HOpe this helps

The height of your subaru is directly porportional to the amount of time and money you wish to invest

That's the one I got calebz; Its a funny little cube with dies for 6 different types of brakes. Any part/tool store worth its weight in lead should have one.

Or just go buy the $3 turn in tool

Nice! I should hope it would

One other note on rust prevention. If you look at my subaru's rear quater panels you will instantly realize why everyone runs mudflaps! If you dont have some, get some

MilesFox: Were there holes or atleast spots to drill out holes for the drive shaft carrier bearing?

Be sure and check the max load capacity on any tires you find.

There is a bracket with 2 bolts pressed in to them. The bracket sits up top above your X-member and the bolts run down to the X-member where nuts hold them on. This holds your X-mebmer to your body. The kit comes with longer bolts. The old bolts need to be removed and the new bolts slipped through old brackets. This info is assuming that your XT6 main x-member bolts on the same as my EA82

This is true; some ATVs share the same bolt pattern.

Glad to hear you got that exhuast manifold on and can finally make some boost. 1) How bad are/old are the oil, oil filter and air filter? I had a noise lifter from a "lack of proper air filtration" After an Italian tune up with SeaFoam and a few oil changes she was back to normal and have not heard them click since. It could be the seals on the pump, the pump itself or that other funny little seal (isnt it located under the cam on the cyl. head?) Anyhow what I'm trying to say is start easy and work your way up. No need to buy an $80 if its clicking from a lack of proper maitanace by the previous owner. 2) I have an EA82T temp sending unit that sits ontop of your thermostat. We could try that out and see if it fixes your digi-guage. That would be alot easier to try before ripping apart the dash or installing a whole new guage. Shoot me an email if you wanna get together and kick the tires. Peace

Atleast yours is repairable Ive been sweeping up rust by the pound, literaly, in the proccess of installing the lift and 4WD. Every few nights I sweep up atleast 1lb of rust and dirt that falls off from using air tools or the BFH. So it could be worse :-)

Also note perscription glasses are NOT safety glasses! I take mine for granted and SHOULD wear saftey glasses. I have talked to another guy and have experinced it myself... shrapnel can and WILL shoot right up from below, to the side or above perscription lenses. Especially using any rotary tool where things are spun at funny angles up at your head. Perscription lenses are usally plenty tough (mine can stop a .22 cal ) but they just do not fully cover your eyes to be considerd safety goggles.

The clutch and flywheel where not the same between my 2WD 5speed and the 4WD dual range 5speed I pulled. The clutch is significantly larger for the 4WD and therefore the bored out area in the flywheel for the clutch/pressure plate were larger. Might need to drill some holes thare are not there for the 4WD rear main crossmember assembly. I had to drill holes out for the rear diff hanger. YOu will see exactly where you need to drill; if they are not already drilled out for you. Center carier bearing for the drive shaft will be interesting too. I have not got that far. I'm leaning twoard getting mine modified into a solid drive shaft and skipping the center carier bearing. As usual however I'm sure funding will over ride my desires.. and I'll end up just trying to bolt in the OEM drive shaft I'm about half done with this very same swap. All I can say is may the force be with you

That oil pressure is dead on to my '88 GL wgn. My impellar shaft is rather worn out and this could be a contributing factor. I tried resealing it but didnt improve pressure. Wouldnt hurt to check it with another guage as suggested. As to the shifting try double clutching or rev matching to slip her in. I usally never use the clutch going into 1st gear from 2nd or 3rd. I just slow down plenty and find the sweet spot to slip it in.

Wish I had kept the picture of my old radiator that I cracked a head on. Looked VERY similar except mine had a nice green hue to what was left on there LOL Glad you replaced it tho! I have a friend whos Ranger radiator looked identical... he just kept driving it untill it blew up on the highway. Incase you are putting 2 and 2 together; yes this IS the same guy who blew up his Subaru, poped the clutch at 65 MPH and kept on driving home!

Love the "A" bar! ANd a third eye? NICE!

Great info guys, thanks alot. GeneralDisorder: Search is great; and your right I should have used it for the "how too" question but there wasnt a big consensus on what size the nut was and no mention of the punch size. Off to the parts store again!

It's very likly nobody here has been there. I would suggest comparing your quote and their curtesy with a minimum of 5 other shops. I call between 5 and 10 shops when I need work done. Comparing prices, estimated times, and their willingness to work with me. Good luck.

wow Quick response, thx! Is there a difference in size between 2WD and 4WD ? I have all 2WD stuff on right now. Will be putting in the 4WD rear end tomarrow night so then I'll have 2WD / 4WD untill I get the 5speed DR in. Do the 2WD inner CVs hook upto the 4WD DR transmission? Or will I be needing to swap in 2 more 4WD front axle assemblies? Thx

I dont mean to hi-jack your thread here but my questions are revelant to your topic so I didnt feel it was necessary to make an ew thread What size / type of hose should be used when plumbing in Oil Coolers? Also what kind of clamps can hold the pressure properly? Thx

Took the day off and need to run alot of errands. The tool store is on my TO-GO list! Need to know what size socket I need for the stub axle castle nut on a 1988 GL wgn. Would also like to get the right size/type of punch to remove DOC/CV pin. I would also like to plead for your trade secrets on the quickest and most efficient way to change an axle assembly. If you do not wish to divulge such detals; I completly understand Thank you.

WOW nice score! $400 is a good deal for what you got. I paid $400 for HALF the car you got I think as you drive that Subaru more and more you will notice its got everything your Ford had... and then some