MorganM

Hey I have that EJ22 main crank pulley and key thats in good shape if you want it. I dont know if it will swap onty an EJ25? Dont worry about any money for it; if it was actually worth something I would have sold it by now I dont have the timing gears however. If your timing gears are funked up you'll have to figure out something else. I'm sure a metal shop can weld up what you need done but trouble would be explaining to them exactly what you need. Maybe what happend was the last 2 guys who "fixed" this problem used the old crank gears with the messed up key slot and that is whats cuasing just enough initial play to start wearing out your new pulley and key? Just a thoguht on why it keeps happening. Why do you have to change the timing belt? Cant just loosen the tensioner pully enough to let you slip off the crank gear? If it does indeed have to come off besure to set the engine by hand exactly where all the marks are lined up. That will make installing the new one SOO much easier.

Good to know, thanks for the info McBrat

I think you would be happier with the leaf blower super charger

nice, i might actually be cought dead in a Justy if it was turbo

I could get you one at a great price but I have a lot going on right now Have a funeral to attend here this week, next weekend is son's birthday, etc etc etc... Local junkyard should have one for you. Ask about their return policy incase you pull a bunk one. That is going to be your best bet on price. Quality is a gamble but I have great luck with junkyard parts.

Ah ok makes perfect sense now, thanks Hmm sounds like it wouldnt cuase TOO much trouble. I would worry about funny vibrations at highway speeds. Just due to the offset difference. Maybe it would just wear the tire funny on that rim. Personaly I prolly wouldnt run it but thats based more on the fact I dont know what could happen. See if the person who sold them to you will work with you. They sent you the wrong part and to me that's their fault. Maybe you can ship the bunk one back and get a good one?

A day? wow! Then there is me who spent the better part of 6 months rebuilding an EA82 SPFI. I did a LOT more then a reaseal job however. If you have no experience in this I would set aside plenty of time becuase this is a project not a repair. You will have many more questions and a lot of trial and error. I do not doubt you can do it but dont think you are going to do it in a weekend and have good results

I' dont quite understand what you are asking. Please rewrite it to be a little more clear. Thanks

http://1949car1985.piranho.de/werkbilder2001/subaru.htm Where can I get some of those pimptastic mirrors that mount to your fender?!

Glad to hear you got her put back together and on the road

I've gutted 3 cats now. Used a big 1" chizel, crow bar and 5lb BFH. Just pummel the inerds and break it up into small enough chunks that they come out the ends. Most annoying part is getting the metal screen mesh out the one end. I usally end up just pounding it out with the crow bar untill you can grab it and yank it out. Once that's out the rest of the catalyst honeycome junk comes out pretty easily. I recomend a dust mask. That stuff isnt friendly on the lungs Usally only took me a half hour to gut one.

I too was informed the only diff. in axles was 2WD and 4WD. And that is only the main half shaft itself? So the splines and CVs are all the same? I guess remaned axle assemblies come with a smaller (32mm) castle nut. Is there any other differences between those two I wonder? Dont know a whole lout about these axles but I have a feeling I'll need to get to know them very well...

Sounds like you have quite a bit of work on your hands before any 5speed swap takes place. From what I gather above you will have to replace the tire, rim, hub, bearings, and axle. I would check to see if inner or outer control arms are bent or if the strut is bent. Also as suggested above check inside the rear differentcial. If it smashed the outer stub axle enough to screw the splines it might have shoved the axle pretty hard into the inner DOJ.

Tell her the '86 is ALL HERS BABY!

So are you stranded somewhere? Or are you back home now?

Sounds like you need to stop going to that dealership. Working for GM you know that Subaru "officials" do not have to do maitanace on your Subaru vehicle. I think you have got suckered enough there and its time to take your business elsewhere. Sounds to me like they do crappy work and are just ringing up the bills on you. The poor workmanship they are performing could be contributing to other problems you are experiencing. There is a lemon in every bunch. I happen to have a 1988 GL (Grand Lemon?) that has had about everything gone wrong you listed PLUS a blown cyl. head. I stick with it becuase I love the car. If you dont LOVE the car, save yourself further headache and get rid of it while its still worth something.

Why feed that nasty crap back into your intake?

hahaha he's been hanging out at the bar with those jeep guys too long! See if you can track down some Grizz2 pics!

I think they are called quick boots. They really are only a temp fix. While you can put them on properly and people have used them for extended periods of time they will not last nearly as long as a good boot. I would almost suggest making a day of it and just doing it right :/

Looked like a blast! No action shots of Grizzly? That "scout" was neat haha. Glad you made it back ok. How did the little guy like the offroad action?

3. Remove all the extra crap that you dont need

looks like a TV commercial!

Thanks for the PDF. Thats always nice to have. It says only Loyales from 1990 had this problem but my 1988 GL SPFI had the same problem. I would suspect that any SPFI with out the PCV mod will blow smoke like this.

I took off the rear wheels and looked it over again. It appears I can just run some soft line from the cabin to the inner arm. There I can couple up to a hardline along the inner arm that goes to the hub. I wont need more then about 8"s of softline for each side. There is also places I can secure it down so it wont flex as much. I honestly dont think it will make much of a difference in "squishyness". There was already softline ran there I'm just extending it a few inches. So I think all I need is the 2 softlines with the proper ends on them, 2 hard line ends to put on myself, a tiny pipe cutter for the hardlines, and a double flare tool.

It's your PCV system. If you look on a Loyale SPFI you can see how there are different hoses. They did away with the smaller hose in the PCV system and used some different fittings. I grabed the whole PCV system off of a Loyale from the junkyard and havent had a problem since.