mikie

It has extremely wide big end journals for a 4 cyl, and 2 oiling holes for each extra-wide journal. It looks suspiciously to me like you could attach 2 conrods to each of those. Anyway. a normal 4 inline crank DOES look just like a subie crank.

Thats a V8 crank youve posted a picture of, not a 4-cyl. A normal 4-cyl inline crank looks just like a subie crank. Consider this. The reason a subaru has the distinctive note is due to the exhaust, which is the way it is because of engine layout. In a subaru each bank of cylinders is collected into one pipe. Becuase of the firing order BOTH left cyls fire consequetively, then both right, and because each time the second cyl's exhaust valve opens before the first is fully shut this means one BIG pulse from the left, then one from the right. Like a 2 cylinder engine. Then, due to the difference in header length left and right this effect is magnified in some applications, perhaps resonance, whatever. This is not good header design, which trys to collect the exhuast pulses in a nice interleaved fashion for better savenging effect, but to put the ideal exhaust system on a flat-4 would have the turbo dead centre under the sump, or a nightmare exhaust system. To make a boxer sound like an inline 4 you need to run one equal length header from each cylinder to a collector mimicking the inline 4. To make a inline 4 sound like a subie you need to collect cyls 1&2 and cyl 3&4 each into a runner at the manifold(so that consequtively firing cyls are together - the reverse of a good header design) and then run these with 2 different lengths into another collector.

Have you considered using an auto box ? The power flow thru the legacy(/liberty) 1989-1996 auto transmission goes like this: Engine->Torque-converter->Automatic gearset... now we have torque at the back of the box. here it splits, and drives the front wheels via 2 gears and a shaft that runs to the front of the box where the front diff is, and the rear wheels via a clutchpack. The front crownwheel and pinion is 'inside-out' with the crownwheel facing outwards, away from the spider gears and the pinion shaft offset right over to the side so it can run back past the auto gearset. Anyway, if you replace those 2 gears with a chain, you reverse direction. Flip the front diff or use one with opposite rotation and you have the rear engine-awd layout, with permanent rwd and optional 4wd to boot. I drew a picture to help explain how this trans works, cos im not good with explanations. Another option would be subaru running gear with a Honda engine, until recently Honda engines ran counter-clockwise, including the 1600, 1800 and 2200cc vtec ones.

No problems at all so far, with as much abuse as i can give it. IE, dropping clutch on tarmac to test it on the first day. I spray a lot of oil on it, because of the ratio it rotates pretty fast. If anyone is tempted to copy this try using smaller diameter sprockets and a double row chain to keep the chain speed down. This setup is fine to around 70kph, and has so far proved durable to approx 120kph, but gets pretty noisey and all the oil flies off! I used the steering knuckle mostly because it provided a source of HD bearings, mounting options and was meant to take a drive axle. And it was free. Friend of my is in the process of building a similar buggy using an EA82T and auto box, the auto box of course will mean a full time drive the rear wheels in this case, and the front will be activated by the hydraulic clutchpack that would originally have engaged the rear. result = a mid engined rear-drive buggy that can engage 4wd while under full power at the press of a button, no need to throttle-off! He is using 2x EA82 front subframes, one with locked steering in the back to carry the engine and rear suspension, and one in the front to provide steering and carry a diffhead for drive.

Just use the whole engine/subframe/front suspension in the back, with a fwd box. If its EA82 switch the lower arms left to right so the caster rods come forward, its easier to mount and keep tidy.Tilt the struts back about 10-15 deg from the vertical. For front suspension easiest is to find a lightweight donor car with independant front double wishbone. Over here in NZ the vehicle of choice is the vauxhall viva, a lovely piece of 70's english engineering whoses only claim to fame is having the ideal front suspension unit for project cars. Its not easy to build youre own suspension from scratch. ^ the Suzuki rail looks kinda cool too.

I have the workshop wiring diagram for the Subaru Impreza, similar year. It should be very similar, its a 13mb file of scanned black and white images. PM me if you want it.

There is such a thing as a 2wd legacy, and impreza, some EJ20 and a number of EJ18s had them. The 2wd box is considerably shorter than the 4wd. The clutch setup is the same 2wd or 4wd, although the turbo/no turbo arrangement is different. Saker originally used the 2wd box in their production vehicles, behind a modified ej20 turbo producing 450ish hp. The relibility factor went rapidly out the window at higher power levels and using slick tyres. They now use a WRX box as a 2wd, with the 4wd capped off. http://www.saker.co.nz/gallery.php?image=sprint_open.jpg&blurb=Saker%20Sprint%20open pic is a bit vague, but shows something of the mid mounted ej20 layout, and rear overhang. EDIT: this applies to manual boxes.... the autos in the legacies are just as big 2wd as 4wd, and cannot be shortened, at least the ones ive seen which is pre 1994.

It does make the gearset run backward, and i'm aware thats not the designers intention. But diffs must be designed to handle a small amount of reverse use during their lifetime, and i have no problems here yet. Otheres with the T-case mod on this board have done more miles than i without hassle. The lash should be the same either way, and I presume the case hardening or heat treatment on the gears would be over the entire surface, not just one side.

You dont have to flip it upside down. When you turn the front one around it 'sees' the driveshaft as rotating in the opposite direction to normal, and drives backwards, effectively forwards. Get 2 diffs and lay them out and rotate the flanges if you cant visualise it. Chain drive rotating driveshaft in normal direction: http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/Toybaru/pages/Transfer%20chain.htm Rear diff right-way-up and in the front, turning in the right direction: http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/Toybaru/pages/Rhf%20suspension.htm To answer youre question a lot of folks have done this with their T-case swap and front diff fitment without hassle, and mine has been fine so far.

I used a nissan clutch plate (180B to be exact) in a subaru g/box when i adapted a toyota motor into it, so a similar nissan box will fit a subaru plate.

Mount the pump where the old one was, the high pressure fuel pumps prefer to 'push' the fuel rather than 'pull' it. Thats why the inlet is a couple sizes bigger than the normal fuel line size, and also one of the principle reasons for intank fuel pumps.

A worn caliper mount causing excessive movement/travel. Soft/old flexible brakelines stretching under pressure. Poor quality brake pads with highly compressible material. Firewall flex? Thats about every idea i can think of.

1st gear = 3.545 i think. You need 1st gear x low ratio x final drive so you have 3.545 x 1.196 x 4.11 = 17.425 overall ratio. Maybe... a thought for those who want a 4.11 final drive, perhaps the FULLTIME 4wd RX box, like this man has is the same setup as the later RS legacy trans(also fulltime 4wd but with the lsd centre). If so, you can use the pinion shaft and crownwheel out of the ej20 box and slot them into the ea82 box, since the pinion is on the end of a longer shaft with splines for the centre diff.

Thats a pretty nifty looking machine just above there too. In reverse order... Subaru atv rims are Ford Econovan(Aka Mazda Bongo, E2000), which had a 12" dual wheel option during the 80's. They are the right stud pattern and pretty neat looking for steel, theres a set of 4 on the back of a wreck,and widening them 4" gives the right offset to clear a subaru caliper + take a 25-10-12 atv trye. They are offset outwards about 4" more than normal leone rims. By widening my back rims 6" using a larger diameter band i can get them to fit over the rear caliper as well. Tyres are just what i could get at the time, and i have only been out once so i cant report on wear yet. I will trry to keep off pavement thou. I set tyre pressure by measuring rim height from the ground to try to get an equal rolling diameter front and rear, no idea what pressure. ^^ Front struts are plain EA82, with spring cups ground off and a piece of threaded tube dropped over it. Spring is EA82 rear, but these seem a bit firm so im on the lookout for springs off a lighter vehicle. Daihatsu looks good. Rear struts are from something Honda, both struts and springs. Mounted further forward than normal to get 10" travel. The extra shocks mounted in the normal position prived to be far too much, so ive removed them and may refit them in front of the springs working at a reduced leverage. I was expecting the chaindrive system to twist and prove unreliable, the rubber mounted centre driveshaft section to try to rip off, or at the very least bad viabration. So far its been fine and my first test drive was without rear driveshafts, using the front wheels only. Spinning up both front wheels constantly on pavement without any bad noises, viabration or ill effect put my fears to rest. The rear sprocket stays where its mean to (Using the tierod to ensure the hub runs parallel helps a lot i think) and the standard engineering sprockets drive a maza 323 front hub, axle is welded to a 1970s triumph 2500 rear axle to give a sliding spline, which is welded to 2x subaru centre driveshafts welded back to back to give a rubber mounted section with a flange at each end, which drives a normal subaru d/shaft section. Why? Dunno... but it works just fine. Id certainly do it different next time, theres weight to be saved and clearance to be gained. But the whole thing can be done cheaply and strongly enough without resorting to expensive engineering. ^^^ Rhino buggies look rather cool, and coincidently i am collecting larger 4wd vehicles with the intent of building a hummer replica. The mid-engine look is far nicer imho, the subaru buggy with the engine hanging out the front looks too nose heavy, and the 3 i know of locally look very nose heavy. My good friends one handles ok with a locked rear diff, but mine is more like a go-kart by comparision. If anyone here wants close up pics of anything just ask, or email me nyloc at inspire.net.nz, the more we put our collective minds together the more refined the concept will get. The biggest thig i would do differently next time is to use 2x front subframes. Mounting the engine, gearbox and rear suspension in one go, and using an EA82T leaves the left exhaust tunnel free for the forward d/shaft to tuck into. I also want to look into getting flanges laser-cut, and building my own rear gearbox section with internal transfer chain and 2wd/4wd select, making the rear shorter and neater.

Sorry to hijack the original thread... 1. Why toyota ? EA82t would have been heaps easier in hindsight, but i had the toyota sitting there, it needed a home, and i had the running gear without a subie motor so i put 2 and 2 together so to speak. Next time round will involve an EJ20t. 2. Ive positioned the max/min rear travel to ensure the rear cvs are about 1/2" off max downward travel at their absolute limit. Its close but it hasnt come a cropper (yet). 3. The axles are case hardened yes... Im not so sure myself on the exact metallurgy of what is going on in there but ive seen welded axles work ok on many things and theres only one way to find out whats gonna happen. I only had to shorten it by around 3/4", the front diff is a fraction wider than the rear, and i must have got the gearbox slightly off-centre because the rh axle squeezed in ok. I made a real nice job of shortening the axle, cept i made it too short and had to make another. The second one, as you can see, isnt so tidy. Its butt welded, and then sleeved, and has handled 'abuse' on tarmac during the early testing. It also has to move a relatively lightweight vehicle, so im hopeful it will survive. 4. Improved version will indeed make much use of a tube bender, this one has been chopped and changed so many times its a mis mash of bits of steel. You can see transistions from large tube to square to small tube depending on my thoughts at the time. Now i have a fair idea of dimensions, spacing and ideals i can build another model with a fair idea of what shape each length needs to be. Below is a pic of my previous 4wd buggy built off a subaru domigo, which had a much neater appearance, but the 997cc engine gave rather boring performance with the level of traction it had. It kept me happy for 3 years, undergoing gradual improvements until now it is virtually impossible to get stuck. I sold it a couple of months ago. 5. Constructive criticism is all good, i was rather doubtful my chain and driveshaft would hold up and i really was expecting to have to modify it, or fix breakages. But i came home from the sand after the first trip very pleased, relieved, and with a short list of improvements, the first is to replace the SR 5spd with the DR 5spd ASAP becuase that toyota motor likes the 5000-7500 rev range.. and the SR gearing dont. The next biggest issue is the urethane bushes in the shifter linkage get quite sticky and need regular lube. 6. Build on, subaru is the best lightweight 4wd gear to play with. I wanted to see if a mid-engined 4wd was doable just for the sake of it, with the fall-back i could make it rwd only if it turned to custard. Now i want to start again, but now i have a full-scale model to measure off, eyes on an EJ20t, and i see if i can jig the clutch-pack 4wd-on-demand out of an auto box into a DR 5-spd.

You can change the rear camber by grinding the weld off the entire inner mount rotating it around the tube to the desired point and welding it back on. The inner rear mount bracket is welding to a larger section which is attached to the tube with 2 straight weld beads, top and bottom. its not hard to cut it off and move it. Only problem is its permanent, but with camber bolts you genrally move it to the correct position and leave it there anyway.

Heres my recently (almost) finished project: Toyota motor, EA82 box+subframes+driveline with some assorted other bits throw in. It shows how long the EA82 box will be, and i used legacy inner DOJs on the standard EA82 rear shafts. I wont blather on any more here but im happy to answer any questions. More pics at: http://webhost1.inspire.net.nz/~nyloc/Toybaru/index.html

If the leg MAF sensor works over the same voltage range as the EA82T one *AND* you used the matching legacy injectors it might work. Maybe. If the leg MAF gives a lower voltage for the same air mass flow, being designed to allow for a heavier-breathing engine, then the ECU would signal a shorter injector pulse. If you used higher CC injectors in theory you would end up injecting the correct amount of fuel, and have more headroom for more power.

Get someone to help you. Lift the bonnet (Hood) and maybe remove the spare wheel. Have your assistant start the car, and put it in drive. Get them to put one foot on the brake pedal to prevent accidents, and give the car a mild rev with the other while you look under bonnet. Out of each side on the transmission, in line with each front wheel, you will see the driveshafts, and where they go into the trans they have an inner CV joint. Odds are that one of these inner joints will be spinning, which is bad. If one of the axles/inner cvs is spinning without the car moving the other wont drive either thanks to the differential. Its unlikely for the axle itself to break, more liekyl the inner or outer CVJ has died. Prolly easiest to source a complete secondhand axle and fit that, since youd have to remove the axle to replace a CVJ anyway.

1. remove complete axle from vehicle. 2. undo clips retaining outer CVJ boot and slide cv boot up axle shaft out of the way. 3. Fix axle in large vice, axle vertical, with outer cv joint pointing straight down. 4. Belt outer cvj off the end of the shaft with large, heavy hammer. Try to strike squarely , with as much of the hammer hitting the centre 6-point star section of the joint as possible, rather than hitting on the outer edge. 5.Usual Disclaimer: This technique works fine with most FWD vehicles including Toyota, mazda, ford, nissan and later model subarus. I have never acutally had to try it on an early model subie thou. The cv is retained by a round-profile circlip, you need to apply enough force to pop the circlip closed. Re-assembly is of course the opposite: align cvj with axle splines, endsure that the circlip is sitting square and true, and smartly smack the cvj onto the shaft.

Nope - the hypoid/offset pinion wont mesh with the crownwheel when you flip the crownwheel over.

Subaru inner joints max is 23.5 deg from straight, giving 47 deg total angle change. From my experience any rear leone axle will fit the rear diff spline, but my experience is limited and others here may know better.

Bit rare, but Kawasaki 3-wheelers had a proper differential in the back axle, the only 30-wheeler to have one. Another option for a chain-drive diff is to take a diffhead (crownwheel assembly) , eg suzuki alto or other <1 litre lightweight car, mount it in sealed bearings and seal all openings around the spidergears. Leave a small quantity of oil in the diffhead before you seal it right up or fit a bung to it, to lube the spider gears. Unbolt crownwheel, bolt on a sprocket, and you have a chaindriven IRS differential suspension.